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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 06-28-2009, 02:54 PM   #1
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Break In Instructions

Has anyone posted a pdf or whatever of the break in pages out of the owner's manual? I would sure like to read them before taking delivery of my 2SS RS. I did a serach but it was about worthless. Thanks!
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:44 PM   #2
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Alright my brother, pardon any typos:

For the first 2414km or 1500 miles:

Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops
Do not exceed 4000 engine rpm
Avoid driving at any one cOnstant speed, fast or slow
Do not drive above 160km/h or 100mph

Avoid downshifting to brakE or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 rpm
Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a stick, shift to the next lower gear. This applies at all times, not just during the break in period
Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break in period
Check engine oil with every re-fueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2414km /1500 miles
To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322km/200 miles. New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
New brake linings also need a break in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 200 miles. This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break in), please send $500 to ckaram and replace the rear axle lubricant beforehand. Paypal accepted.

TA DA!
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:29 PM   #3
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Thank you very much ckaram, I do appreciate it!!
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:33 PM   #4
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So does that $500 cover labor?!?!? ha
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Old 06-29-2009, 04:47 AM   #5
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Ahhhh, someone caught it! Yes, I'll toss the labor in!
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:15 AM   #6
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1500 miles and not push the car to the limits???? Never gonna happen. LOL
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:08 AM   #7
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1500 miles and not push the car to the limits???? Never gonna happen. LOL
I made it about 500.... but then again i think I had a few pushes before lol.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:31 PM   #8
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I made it to 100. Know a guy that builds race engines. He says everything is broken in within 20 minutes of driving and to have fun.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:48 PM   #9
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And he is correct. Good or bad, how you drive your car in teh first few minutes will determine how your car performs. Now granted we are talking a difference of maybe 5% or so, but 447hp is better than 426 ...

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Old 07-01-2009, 07:00 AM   #10
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break in

I plan on driving mine for 3 hrs around town when picked up. A top engineer I knew said do this and it will temper all the steel properly for the ultimate break in.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
I plan on driving mine for 3 hrs around town when picked up. A top engineer I knew said do this and it will temper all the steel properly for the ultimate break in.
You may want to google or wiki the temper process for steel. I subscribe to the Rapid Break-in technique by keeping cylinder pressure high.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:41 AM   #12
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The more I read tips on break-in, the more I realize nobody really knows or else there wouldn't be 500 different opinions.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:39 PM   #13
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The more I read and experience, the more I plant myself in the high cylinder pressure/right off the bat, school for engines. It makes sense.

I'd heed the procedures regarding the brakes/tires, etc., though.

John B.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBrad View Post
The more I read tips on break-in, the more I realize nobody really knows or else there wouldn't be 500 different opinions.
There are more than 500, yes.

There are ways to break in an engine that result in proven higher performance and a 'healthier' engine. Google "engine break in secrets" and read it. Then if you still want to call me mistaken thats fine. I have used this to break in my last four cars, as well as two motorcycles and many times have heard people who own the exact same car or cycle that mine "is just more powerful" ... I do not think I lucked into the 'perfect engine' on each and every one of them.

- SK
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Quote:
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it's not a WD-40 problem, so it's got to be a duct tape problem
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:02 PM   #15
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I hate to quote a Mustang guy, but my buddy at work said the tech that took him on a shake-down run in his new Mustang said to "get on it!, right from the start"

SoloSK71, do you have any recommendations as to gears/RPMs/speeds and how long to hold it, and how much time overall? 30 minutes, 1 hr...?
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:29 PM   #16
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SoloSK71, do you have any recommendations as to gears/RPMs/speeds and how long to hold it, and how much time overall? 30 minutes, 1 hr...?
Taken from the site: (NOTE: FOR DYNO BREAK IN ONLY)

Warm the engine up completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from 40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from 30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

The ONLY difference I might suggest is possibly using 3rd gear to get to the indicated RPM then do the run up in 4th.

- SK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontyCarlo View Post
it's not a WD-40 problem, so it's got to be a duct tape problem
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:35 PM   #17
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:47 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=ckaram;629068]Alright my brother, pardon any typos:

For the first 2414km or 1500 miles:

Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops
Do not exceed 4000 engine rpm
Avoid driving at any one cOnstant speed, fast or slow
Do not drive above 160km/h or 100mph

Avoid downshifting to brakE or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 rpm
My delear told me when I open the hood and see GM Performace that means its already broke in and ready to go. Is this true?
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckaram View Post
Alright my brother, pardon any typos:

For the first 2414km or 1500 miles:

Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops
Do not exceed 4000 engine rpm
Avoid driving at any one cOnstant speed, fast or slow
Do not drive above 160km/h or 100mph

Avoid downshifting to brakE or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 rpm
Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a stick, shift to the next lower gear. This applies at all times, not just during the break in period
Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break in period
Check engine oil with every re-fueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2414km /1500 miles
To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322km/200 miles. New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
New brake linings also need a break in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 200 miles. This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break in), please send $500 to ckaram and replace the rear axle lubricant beforehand. Paypal accepted.

TA DA!
whats the money for? lubricant is like $20
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:48 AM   #20
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Having built several engines, I agree. The motor doesn't need 1500 or 500 miles to break in. Now, it will continue to "free up", but break in is complete in about an hour.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:24 PM   #21
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break in

You guys can't be serious? Dyno the car to break in?
I'm a Tool & Die Gage maker by trade. I have honed, polished, turned, ground and built more metal parts and can tell you the WORST thing you could do when mating two pieces of metal is apply extreme pressure.
Before the metals are mated it will just score them.
You can't believe everything you google on the internet, I agree with GM's procedure.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
You can't believe everything you google on the internet, I agree with GM's procedure.
Amen!!!! Why in the world people don't trust or take the advise of the manufacture I'll never know. Everyone knows a mechanic that says this or that.... this mechanic friend of a friends cousins uncle doesn't hold the warranty nor did he design the engine! Follow the book folks!
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:43 PM   #23
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Amen!!!! Why in the world people don't trust or take the advise of the manufacture I'll never know. Everyone knows a mechanic that says this or that.... this mechanic friend of a friends cousins uncle doesn't hold the warranty nor did he design the engine! Follow the book folks!
"Follow the book folks! "
+1

I'll never understand why anyone would think the owners manual, the engineers who built the engine, the company the manufactures it, the testing that was done on it ...is wrong.
Can someone tell me why on earth would they tell you to take it easy on it? I'm sure there is a conspiracy theory out there for this one too and I'd love to hear it!
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Old 07-18-2009, 02:22 PM   #24
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ive heard of some guys dyno 376ish whp after break in and some are posting 346 ish, someone should research how these larger numbers are coming up to provide Maro owners with the proper way, be it instruction manual or not, because who want to be robbed of those extra ponies reguardless of what type of dyno it was I don't think you would see that much of a difference.
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Old 07-18-2009, 02:42 PM   #25
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Really only thing that should need to be heat cycled is the rear end gears which alot of people do not do. My engine builder always told me with my 500 CI BB, its making the most horsepower the minute I take take off the engine stand. Granted that was back in the day of iron top rings. He would be literally pissed if he heard I was out testing it


I once was pretty fricken fast.........now just a cruiser

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