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Old 09-24-2010, 07:27 PM   #1
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Catch Can Sale!! Ends Oct 1!!!!

$124 shipped!! Includes everything you need. Bracket, hoses, fastners, remote drain tube, detailed instructions, and he results show it all.










Special configurations for Maggie/top mount SC & Turbo/front mount SC available.



Integrated poly checkvalve prevents back-flow & controls the amount pulled. Questions? Just ask!!!



And the off-road breather is only $39 shipped, after Oct 1 back to $39 plus $10 S&H to the lower 48.

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Old 09-24-2010, 07:44 PM   #2
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What is a catch can?
What is it used for?
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:53 PM   #3
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Damn! That's about $40 cheaper than what I paid. Well worth it.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:21 PM   #4
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These are the best cans on the market. Check valve, filter, and large capacity. They work like a catch can is supposed to work. Small capacity cans are just not very efficient.
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:48 AM   #5
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i want a ibm if you have that color and i want the breather as well can you pm me a quote asap
thank you
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:39 AM   #6
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I want one ...but don't know where I can mount it with a Vortech .. there is NO room .. the collant overflow has been moved with the vortech and will not mount there.. And on the drivers side even the Postive Battery post had to moved back a little.. Does anyone have a pic where they mounted this with a Vortech?

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Old 09-25-2010, 11:14 AM   #7
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In the pic's of the can's i dont see the welded mounting bracket, Is there one on the can if so do you have it in IMO, Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:36 PM   #8
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In the pic's of the can's i dont see the welded mounting bracket, Is there one on the can if so do you have it in IMO, Thanks.
Yes there's a bracket welded to the can; you can see it in one of the photos above. It also comes with a separate L shaped bracket to mount the can.
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:43 PM   #9
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I want one, where do I order from?
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:28 PM   #10
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What is a catch can?
What is it used for?


I am curious as well.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:35 PM   #11
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PM Sent ..

BTW .. I also asked .. if you go the breather route as well (since I'm S/C'd), is a re-tune necessary?

thanks,
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewGen View Post
What is a catch can?


What is it used for?
Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan


Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.


Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.


On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.


In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.

Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.


The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.


Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.

There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.


Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.

Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.

This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.

I also wanted to address the water in the oil. You will NOT fill your crankcase up in short order with just breathers. What happens is each time your engine reaches operating temp the unburnt fuel, water vapor, combustion by-products will gas or "flash-off" as vapor. But only the excess crankcase pressure being relieved through the breather will carry any of that out....and without a proper evac system, a good amount remains in the crankcase and re-condenses back to droplets that coat the internal engine parts as your motor cools down and it contaminates the oil. Every time you heat cycle you are adding more contamination and it is not very visible to just "look" at your oil....you need a professional analysis to see just what is accumulating in your oil and how it is breaking down its ability to protect...but the corrosion from the sulfuric acid is also very damaging over time (I'll try to post up some pics of parts showing just this in the near future). Just pull the dipstick on a diesel 20 miles after an oil change...it already "looks" black & dirty, but is still new and providing the proper protection. Sight is deceiving. Oil might look pretty clean or dirty but an analysis report will show destructive levels of contaminants.



And finally, some have gone so far as to cap off the entire system and run an open hose from each valve cover to near the ground. While this will eliminate all oil getting into the intake via the PCV system, the damage done by the hose with the least amount of air moving past it while at speed will suck dirt/sand/dust/water/and who knows what else directly into the motor via that valve cover. It may take some time (depending on how clean the roads you drive on are) but will result in premature engine wear & failure.


The solution for the street crowd is a properly designed, good functioning oil separating catchcan. Many are available on the market, but ONLY one designed with internal baffling and a good distance separating the inlet from the outlet. Many of the cans seen for low prices on Ebay, etc. are great looking, but are nothing but empty cans with two fittings attached. Do your homework & get a full understanding before you make your selection.


Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_2010 View Post
i want a ibm if you have that color and i want the breather as well can you pm me a quote asap
thank you
Color is close, but not exact. Same price. Breathers are in white, blue, and red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony1 View Post
I want one ...but don't know where I can mount it with a Vortech .. there is NO room .. the collant overflow has been moved with the vortech and will not mount there.. And on the drivers side even the Postive Battery post had to moved back a little.. Does anyone have a pic where they mounted this with a Vortech?

Mounting is not that easy, we just find where it can fit and use a custom bracket. If you were close I would mount it free for you. You have to get creative, but it is well worth it!

The Vortec/turbo front mount units add $20. They are the only one on the market configured just for forced induction evacuating the crankcase using intake manifild vacuum when not in boost, and automatically closes that valve when it senses boost and switches the the head unit inlet side when in boost:



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SSRS View Post
In the pic's of the can's i dont see the welded mounting bracket, Is there one on the can if so do you have it in IMO, Thanks.
Specific brackets for most applications are included.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver2SSRS6spd View Post
I want one, where do I order from?
Paypal: RXproducts@tampabay.rr.com . No extra S&H if ordering breather w/the can together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowley View Post
PM Sent ..

BTW .. I also asked .. if you go the breather route as well (since I'm S/C'd), is a re-tune necessary?

thanks,
Crowley
Even though it is drawing filtered fresh make up air from outside of the maf, the integrated valves control the amount and the ECM has no problem adjusting.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:36 PM   #13
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:17 AM   #14
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Do you have a pic or diagram of what the inside consists of? Looks nice on the outside, but wondering what the inside consists of.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:47 AM   #15
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The forced induction model has two oneway checkvalves from the outlet chamber, this shows the NA version.

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Old 09-29-2010, 09:03 PM   #16
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Sale ends Friday!!!!!!! Get your orders in!
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:20 PM   #17
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The cut-away answered my question

Sent you a PM.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:49 PM   #18
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All orders recieved by midnight get the sale price!!!
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:59 PM   #19
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i want one!
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:47 PM   #20
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how do i order
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:20 PM   #21
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Paypal: $139 plus $15 S&H to: RXproducts@Tampabay.rr.com

Be sure to specify the year/make/model/engine/NA or forced induction, and of course the finish/color.
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:39 PM   #22
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can i pay with cc or u only take pay pal
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Old 10-19-2010, 03:16 PM   #23
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Paypal. If you need it is easy to set up a PP account and you can use your CC with it if desired.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:13 PM   #24
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are there any instruction for a 2011 ss auto? i think mine is hooked up wrong since at first i was leaking oil...and now i got white smoke coming out my exhaust. and no local shops seem to know how to hook this thing up....help plz!!!
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:55 AM   #25
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email: RXProducts@aol.com and I will send instructions.

Things to check:

Drain valve closed? Threads all the way extended and exposed (visable) is closed. Threads retracted into valve = open.

Hose from valley cover (or rear of drivers side valve cover on L99) to the CENTER fitting on can.

Hose from passenger side of the intake manifold snout to the OUTER check valve.

If you have the optional breather, line from inner portion of the front of the passenger side valve cover must be deleted and the barbs capped off. If not running the breather then line must stay intact.

If using another brand breather it is wide open allowing unrestricted, un metered air in.

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