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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 06-29-2009, 11:31 AM   #1
Steve P
 
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babyjulie83's wash demo session

Yesterday Julie brought me her car for some tips on safely washing and drying it. BY 900 AM it was already 85+ degrees. Before her arrival, I had already set up the canopy for some temporary shading of our demo.

Before we washed the paint and glass surfaces, we cleaned the wheels and wheel wells first.

I see more and more threads about water spotting during washing. Unless you are doing this before sun up or after sun down, it can be a source of frustration when it comes to drying. Down here in Texas it is no different. With the summer months, the rinse water can dry in seconds on the surface.

A couple of days ago, I tested the quality of my own water here. With this measuring tool, it shows to have 294 PPM of total dissolved solids in the water. It's these particles that show on the surface after the moisture evaporates or is wiped off the paint or glass.


I picked up a portable water deionizer tank for testing to help make the wash process easier to accomplish. After running the same water source through the DI tank, the sample now shows 0 PPM. This will result in spot free drying.


Starting with the wash process, we lightly rinsed off the paint and glass to remove any light dirt and road film before washing. After showing Julie to lightly swab each panel to break the surface tension that holds the remaining surface dirt and road film, I had her finish each panel one by one from top to bottom.


I rinsed off the the entire car with the DI treated water and watched it evaporate from the surface for the next several minutes.




Julie took these pictures over the next 10-15 minutes to show the drying effect on the paint. If this wasn't with the treated rinse, the surface would be covered in heavy spots as it dried in the sun.












We are looking into selling these tanks/accessories in the near future. Stay tuned for more details.

Feel free to contact me with any questions.

Last edited by Steve P; 07-09-2009 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:12 PM   #2
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That is perfect.

I could use that. Especially out in Bakersfield.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:58 PM   #3
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How much water does one tank hold? It looks like it just attaches to the water hose and doesn't need any outside power supply. If that's the case, that would be so simple.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:20 PM   #4
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How much water does one tank hold? It looks like it just attaches to the water hose and doesn't need any outside power supply. If that's the case, that would be so simple.
The white tank you see in the picture doesn't hold any water. Your outside water source connects to the inlet and the DI water passes through the outlet. For this demo, I used the white 4" hose/sprayer connected to the tank outlet to rinse off the car. Your can even connect this setup to a electric power sprayer. The resin which is contained in the tank is enough to treat water for about 35 cars worth of spot free rinses before it needs changing.

Imagine not having to wipe the car down after the final rinse.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:26 PM   #5
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good idea but a little extreme.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:54 PM   #6
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The white tank you see in the picture doesn't hold any water. Your outside water source connects to the inlet and the DI water passes through the outlet. For this demo, I used the white 4" hose/sprayer connected to the tank outlet to rinse off the car. Your can even connect this setup to a electric power sprayer. The resin which is contained in the tank is enough to treat water for about 35 cars worth of spot free rinses before it needs changing.

Imagine not having to wipe the car down after the final rinse.
Just curious, when the tank can't de-ionize any more water, do you have to purchase a new tank, or is it similar to Brita water filters where you just pull out the old "filter" and put in a new one?

Just FYI for anyone considering this approach to washing their cars, DO NOT let any people or animals drink the DI water.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:11 PM   #7
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good idea but a little extreme.
Extreme? Maybe.

But for for some, they will get frustrated with the process of trying to remove the spotting due to hard water or high TDS levels without inflicting fine scratches or dulling haze. A diluted distilled white vinegar solution is also a good way of removing water spots from the surface too.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:16 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter View Post
Just curious, when the tank can't de-ionize any more water, do you have to purchase a new tank, or is it similar to Brita water filters where you just pull out the old "filter" and put in a new one?

Just FYI for anyone considering this approach to washing their cars, DO NOT let any people or animals drink the DI water.
Only the old resin needs to be poured out and new added when spotting starts to occur. When the total dissolved solids (TDS) are greater than 50 PPM, it is time to change. A TDS measuring meter comes with each DI tank.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:23 PM   #9
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Cool, thanks for posting.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve@Tropi-Care View Post
Only the old resin needs to be poured out and new added when spotting starts to occur. When the total dissolved solids (TDS) are greater than 50 PPM, it is time to change. A TDS measuring meter comes with each DI tank.
What about the water spots that get burned into the paint along the shipping route/train yards. Can you get them out ? Is there any reason they don't cover the top panels when shipping ? unless the new paint can't be covered.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:56 PM   #11
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What about the water spots that get burned into the paint along the shipping route/train yards. Can you get them out ? Is there any reason they don't cover the top panels when shipping ? unless the new paint can't be covered.
For those type of spots that occur during transport, I would still go with the least aggressive means of removal. After the initial rinse to remove the loose dust and dirt, I would lightly swab the surface to remove the remaining surface dirt. After rinsing, a clay bar will remove a great amount of them if not all at this time. For more stubborn ones, a diluted solution of distilled white vinegar is another option. On the worse ones I have had to remove, a light abrasive polish with a PC works to remove them.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:57 PM   #12
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I dont know if i can buy another toy for my detailing collection. Wife may have an opinion on this The only thing on the consumer market kinda like this is the mr clean auto dry system but found that thing sucked pretty bad. Hope this works out for you Steve its show promise thats for sure but ill stick with washing my car at dawn and drying with my leaf blower and towels. Btw how much will it cost to refill the resin when it needs to be changed up?
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:05 AM   #13
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...Btw how much will it cost to refill the resin when it needs to be changed up?
And how do you dispose of the old resin?
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:15 AM   #14
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:37 AM   #15
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Any way you can list out exactly what steps/materials were needed to do this. I don't want to scratch the paint with the dust and dirt from shipping. You seem to use a different method than this thread and it looks like it works as well.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26594
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:20 PM   #16
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I found this place, http://www.portablewaterdi.com/deionizers.php#, that sells portable water deionizers almost like the one pictured for about $300. Sounds like a little much but it might be worth it
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:20 PM   #17
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And how do you dispose of the old resin?
Direct from the supplier:

"Dispose in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.

This resin is non-hazardous, dispose of resin via any business or home disposal system."
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:36 PM   #18
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Any way you can list out exactly what steps/materials were needed to do this. I don't want to scratch the paint with the dust and dirt from shipping. You seem to use a different method than this thread and it looks like it works as well.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26594
The process for Number_9's car was done at his location in the middle of the day with no shading. Sundays' demo was done at mine. I used the same concepts for both with just slight variations in completing the jobs.

I have attached an outline of some of my detail process:

Washing/drying the car:
Here in Texas, washing the car can be a chore especially in the summer months. I usually try to get this done either early in the morning before 1000 AM or after the sun has gone down in the evening. If it is not possible to wash indoors, this is the best time to finish the job and minimize the chance of water spots on the finish. Systems like CR Spotless or other water deionizers also provide spot-free rinse alternatives.

To start, I'll wash and rinse the wheels, tires, fender wells prior to washing the body of the car. Using the 16" wheel spoke brush and 20" wheel/fender brush makes it very effective at cleaning these tight or hard to reach areas.

Start with a light surface rinse of the entire body area to remove any light dust and road film. Using (2) 2-3 gallon wash buckets, fill one with water and add several capfuls of the car wash concentrate creating a foamy solution as it fills. A grit guard minimizes the chance of picking up any particles which could scratch the surface during washing. In the second bucket, fill with clean rinse water. Starting with the top surfaces, dip your wash mitt into the soapy bucket, lightly swab the panel using straight strokes to break the surface tension of the remaining light dirt. Dip the wash mitt into the rinse bucket to remove accumulated surface dirt before returning to the soapy bucket to swab the next panel. A light hose rinse of the surface helps to remove any soapy residue before it dries. A second wash mitt can be used to wash the lower parts of the car, further minimizing new scratches or fine lines.

Clay bar: (1-2x/year)
The use of the clay bar is an optional but strongly suggested step in the process to protect your paint finish. It safely removes all types of surface contamination including water spots, tree sap, bugs, tar, paint over spray, old wax, rail dust, and industrial fallout. You will notice how smooth your paint surface becomes as it removes these rough particles from the finish. You will be able to use it to clean the glass and your wheels as well.

After washing the heavy dirt from the vehicle and rinsing thoroughly, use the Clay Magic clay lube solution or make a solution of TC-6 Car Wash in a 16 ounce spray bottle at the rate of ½ capful and fill up with distilled water for best results. Spray the soapy solution on a 2'x 2' section to be clayed. Break the clay bar into 2 pieces and save the other piece just in case should you drop the first piece on the ground. Mold the piece into a circular patty and gently slide the clay bar across the lubricated surface until it feels smooth. Do NOT allow the surface to dry out. As the bar becomes darkened with the surface contaminants, simply stretch, fold and reshape the bar to expose a clean surface. Periodically check the Clay Bar for heavy dirt particles. Repeat process until the entire surface is completed. Do NOT re-use the bar if dropped on the ground. Discard bar after no clean surfaces are visible. Re-wash/rinse the entire completed surface and dry with a clean micro fiber waffle weave drying towel.

Drying after washing:
Microfiber waffle weave drying towels are extremely absorbent and very effective for use in drying the surface after washing. I like to use them just lightly damp to remove the remaining water from paint and glass. Heavy pressure is not needed to remove the moisture. As the towel becomes saturated, simply wring it out and continue drying. An electric blower is also handy to blow out any remaining moisture from crevices, wheels and any other weeping areas. Wipe down door jambs with another damp microfiber towel to remove any light dust, dirt or moisture.

Once completed, detail spray can be used to remove any light water spotting after drying.

The wax or sealant can now be applied any time on a clean, cool surface to maintain gloss, slickness and protection. I like to use our black carnauba creme on darker color cars as it provides additional depth and the polymer sealant on lighter colors and metallics.

Since writing this outline, I have started using the DI treated water for the final rinse after routine washing. As seen on babyjulie83's car, I can now eliminate the waffle weave towel wipedown since it will dry spot free.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
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good idea but a little extreme
Might be considered a bit extreme, but it is so effective. That DI treated water was the best thing since sliced bread....it was so hot outside, the last thing I wanted was to dry the car. I have such huge problems getting the car water-spot free that this is actually something I would like to have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve @ Tropi-Care
To start, I'll wash and rinse the wheels, tires, fender wells prior to washing the body of the car. Using the 16" wheel spoke brush and 20" wheel/fender brush makes it very effective at cleaning these tight or hard to reach areas.
I ended up buying these two brushes, it made cleaning the wheels so much easier. I was only washing the surface of the polished aluminum so I was leaving tons of brake dust in the back.

I'm hoping the next time I wash my car that it will go much smoother....I haven't taken my Camaro out of the garage for the past couple of days, it looks so clean. I'm having Camaro withdrawal though so i'll have to take it out tomorrow.
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