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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 06-10-2013, 02:24 PM   #1
davidmk001
 
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2010 SS L99 Headers Help

Hey everyone. Looking for some help on deciding on a system.

I currently have Solo Axle back exhaust with J pipes (eliminate drone), K&N CAI. I was really leaning towards the Stainless Works. (1 7/8" long tube with the highflow cats).

Anyone have these with the highflow cats? Any drone, how you like them ?

Also, do I need new set of OEM gaskets, arp header studs and a low temp thermostat ?

Guy I spoke to about the SW's said I'd need these extra's and was really trying to push them on me.

Thanks for the help
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmk001 View Post
Hey everyone. Looking for some help on deciding on a system.

I currently have Solo Axle back exhaust with J pipes (eliminate drone), K&N CAI. I was really leaning towards the Stainless Works. (1 7/8" long tube with the highflow cats).

Anyone have these with the highflow cats? Any drone, how you like them ?

Also, do I need new set of OEM gaskets, arp header studs and a low temp thermostat ?

Guy I spoke to about the SW's said I'd need these extra's and was really trying to push them on me.

Thanks for the help
I had cats until they melted on me. They do not stand up to the boost superchargers or turbos make. It was a bit louder without the cats but not too much of a difference. I have American Racing headers. You will need new gaskets for the headers but you do not necessarily have to have the ARP studs. They are higher quality but not necessary. You do not have to run 160 thermostat unless you just want to.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #3
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Im not running any boost - no supercharger or turbo. So would you say the hi-flow cats are a good idea, or do you recommend the off-road pipe ?

Also I take then that the low temp thermostat is if I were running a turbo / supercharger ?
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by davidmk001 View Post
Im not running any boost - no supercharger or turbo. So would you say the hi-flow cats are a good idea, or do you recommend the off-road pipe ?

Also I take then that the low temp thermostat is if I were running a turbo / supercharger ?
You will be fine with the cats if you are not running under boost.
There are pros and cons on the 160 degree thermostat. I am sure you can find many threads on it. Some say the LS engines prefer to run a little warmer and some say they have used them for years with no problems. I have one and it works fine. If you are not racing, I would just stick with the factory one.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #5
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Save your money from buying high flow cats and use it towards something else. Unless you live in a place where police will run emission test if they pull you over. I run borla LT headers to Borla S type catless.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:11 PM   #6
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Go for Stainless Power from Stainless Works .. Works perfect for me and great rumble!
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rforbes View Post
You will be fine with the cats if you are not running under boost.
There are pros and cons on the 160 degree thermostat. I am sure you can find many threads on it. Some say the LS engines prefer to run a little warmer and some say they have used them for years with no problems. I have one and it works fine. If you are not racing, I would just stick with the factory one.
Ok thank you for the info. I don't race so I'll just stick with the factory thermostat.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:33 PM   #8
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Save your money from buying high flow cats and use it towards something else. Unless you live in a place where police will run emission test if they pull you over. I run borla LT headers to Borla S type catless.
I'd prefer the CATs for emissions. I need to ensure I pass or I'm taking the bus to where I need to go. Also want to avoid the smell. lol

Quote:
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Go for Stainless Power from Stainless Works .. Works perfect for me and great rumble!
I've researched these. They are made overseas and a discount brand (which is fine as they use the same design). The only part that makes me hesitant towards these is that I've read some members on here received them with weld imperfections where they had to grind them down to find them to the manifold.

Are yours holding up good ?
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:03 PM   #9
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I suggest going with cats simply for how they effect the sound. Catless exhausts tend to be louder and raspy so keep that in mind.

The cats will hold up just fine. They tend to fail early on boosted application due to the exhaust gas temps, but that can be remedied with a good tune.

We are a Stainless works dealer, but I also suggest maybe looking in to KOOKS headers. We have a promo going that brings the cost right down near the SW headers. Please feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions or pricing.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:19 PM   #10
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PM sent, thanks!
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmk001 View Post
I'd prefer the CATs for emissions. I need to ensure I pass or I'm taking the bus to where I need to go. Also want to avoid the smell. lol



I've researched these. They are made overseas and a discount brand (which is fine as they use the same design). The only part that makes me hesitant towards these is that I've read some members on here received them with weld imperfections where they had to grind them down to find them to the manifold.

Are yours holding up good ?
You are correct on the smell going without cats.

You won't go wrong with Stainless Works. SW, ARH, and Kooks are pretty much the top-shelf standard (there are others....not trying to ignite that debate). They are also made in the U.S.A. (there are others as well), if that is important to you. Their fittment is great and weld quality top-notch.

If looks and quicker heat dissipation is important to you, consider getting them coated.

You do not need another set of header gaskets or bolts. The OEM ones are perfectly fine.

Do NOT use thread locker on the header bolts. Use anti-seize if anything.

Based on your mods, you do not need the low temp T-stat either.

After your header install, I seriously recommend getting a tune. It really wakes up the L99.

Your axle back will cancel the drone. If you detect any after the header install, adjust the J-pipes.

Good luck!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmk001 View Post
Hey everyone. Looking for some help on deciding on a system.

I currently have Solo Axle back exhaust with J pipes (eliminate drone), K&N CAI. I was really leaning towards the Stainless Works. (1 7/8" long tube with the highflow cats).

Anyone have these with the highflow cats? Any drone, how you like them ?

Also, do I need new set of OEM gaskets, arp header studs and a low temp thermostat ?

Guy I spoke to about the SW's said I'd need these extra's and was really trying to push them on me.

Thanks for the help

I have your exact set up, nearly.

SOLO axleback with j pipes, SW 1 7/8" LT headers, HF cats, stock resonator. CAI inc intake.

It sounds great!!!!! I have a range v8 disabler, but when I let it go into 4 cylinder mode, it didnt even sound bad. NO drone, not loud in the cabin unless you go above 2k rpm. So awesome. Do it!

Get HF cats because it helps tone down raspiness. You can get a new set of OEM gaskets, or use the ones on your car. I used mine, but they only had 16k miles on them.

Never heard about needing a thermostat.

Also, the headers install was soo easy.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:09 AM   #13
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What is the detail on SOLO "axleback" with J-pipes. When I checked their site, all I could find is "cat-back" systems.
I have an tuned L99 with Kooks headers/Hi-Flows and no center resonator (x-pipe, instead) and would consider switching from SLP cat-back to Solo --- but I only want to change from the axle back. Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:12 AM   #14
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here is the link to the axle back

http://solo-performance.com/pe-camar...pipes-auto-std
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:14 AM   #15
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only issue i had with the axle back is that you have to measure and cut the stock exhaust and if you cut too far the tips will be too far in or if you don't cut far enough you might have clearance issues.

I have the Mach XL catback and I couldn't be happier.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:37 AM   #16
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only issue i had with the axle back is that you have to measure and cut the stock exhaust and if you cut too far the tips will be too far in or if you don't cut far enough you might have clearance issues.

I have the Mach XL catback and I couldn't be happier.
Steve
Thanks for the info. After looking at the site, I may try contacting (calling) their guy, Steve (coincidence?) for more on catback vs. axleback for my case.
Thanks again
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldBowtie View Post
What is the detail on SOLO "axleback" with J-pipes. When I checked their site, all I could find is "cat-back" systems.
I have an tuned L99 with Kooks headers/Hi-Flows and no center resonator (x-pipe, instead) and would consider switching from SLP cat-back to Solo --- but I only want to change from the axle back. Any advice is appreciated.
Honestly I love their system with the j-pipes technology. Virtually 0 drone! I was amazed when I first had it put on. Also I noticed it took some miles to have it 'break-in' I guess you can say. That's when its true sound potential was unlocked.

For all its worth to you, I am very happy and would do this setup again if I had another shot at it.

*** sorry, I should also add that since you have the L99, you're really going to hear the AFM kick in and it does make it sound, well, annoying! Look into the RANGE AFM Disable device. Well WORTH the money.

Last edited by davidmk001; 06-11-2013 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Adding
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #18
davidmk001
 
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Originally Posted by RJT-SS View Post
You are correct on the smell going without cats.

You won't go wrong with Stainless Works. SW, ARH, and Kooks are pretty much the top-shelf standard (there are others....not trying to ignite that debate). They are also made in the U.S.A. (there are others as well), if that is important to you. Their fittment is great and weld quality top-notch.

If looks and quicker heat dissipation is important to you, consider getting them coated.

You do not need another set of header gaskets or bolts. The OEM ones are perfectly fine.

Do NOT use thread locker on the header bolts. Use anti-seize if anything.

Based on your mods, you do not need the low temp T-stat either.

After your header install, I seriously recommend getting a tune. It really wakes up the L99.

Your axle back will cancel the drone. If you detect any after the header install, adjust the J-pipes.

Good luck!

Okay. I am really excited now! lol

BTW, how much power gain did you get with your headers + tune ? What can I expect ? I know the LS3's are apparently picking up more than the L99's ... Not too sure what type of gain I can expect or consider to be a 'good gain' on the auto
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #19
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I have not dynoed my car. I am not that into numbers as many are. I prefer the "butt dyno".....and it is noticeable. You can find endless numbers by checking out the L99 dyno sticky at the top of this forum. I think headers and a tune translate to 25-35 RWHP as a conservative/reasonable average but every car is a little different. LS3's have more RWHP "out the box" and do not benefit as much as the L99's due to the AFM and auto tranny loss.

BTW, you might want to consider getting a ported throttle body as well. It does not translate into much (if any) RWHP but it noticeably improves throttle response. Another one of those "butt dyno" gains.
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