|06-12-2013, 07:01 AM||#1|
6L80e to TR6060 Swap - SS 6 speed Auto to 6 speed Manual
This is not really a step by step “How to”……its more of a “How I did it..but it might not work for you”
I cant find anyone who has done this conversion before me…So I think that I am the first !!
If you are thinking about doing this……You should probably have already done the L99 to LS3 conversion..not sure how or if its even possible to do this on a TRUE L99 car.
My car started life as an L99 car, but I did the LS3 conversion when I swapped out to a stroker 427 engine. My car is HIGHLY modified from stock, my engine / transmission wiring harness have been MAJORLY MODIFIED. Meaning that I have lengthened, shortened, and even removed un-necessary wiring from my engine harness before I ever imagined doing this project. So keep this in mind as you look at my pictures and writeup.
I am hoping that this will be a “guideline” to help others like myself that want a manual 6 speed transmission in place of the factory automatic.
As I am writing this…I still have a few “quirks” that haven’t been completely worked out yet… mainly stuff dealing with the BCM (body control module) because it still thinks the car is an automatic. I will explain this later.
Most of my parts were bought used from a Camaro5 member that swapped to a 4L80e automatic for racing. You can save a ton of money if you can find the right deal.
If you wanted to do this with new GM parts… here is the parts list with the part numbers:
1. TR6060 Transmission with release bearing 92246731
2. TR6060 Install Kit (flywheel,clutch,bolts,cover,bearing) 19259271
3. Clutch Pedal Assembly 92199595
4. Brake Pedal assembly for manual trans 92195945
5. Manual transmission cross member 92200277
6. Transmission mount 92200273
7. Fluid line from Clutch master to slave 92228715
8. Brake master to clutch master hose 92221530
9. Clamps for BM to CM hose (2) 11516215
10. Brake master cylinder (manual trans) 22788972
11. Transmission cooler lines 92221651
12. Driveshaft Assembly (manual trans) 92246788
13. ZL1 Shifter Assembly 19299460
14. LS3 –M10 Wiring Harness 92238351
I upgraded some of the parts above with aftermarket stuff:
Number 7 was upgraded to: www.tickperformance.com part # TP5GBL
Number 8, 9, 10 was upgraded to: www.jdpmotorsports.com part # JDPC1001
Number 2 was upgraded to : Monster Clutch Kit, factory pilot bearing (GM# 12557583), ARP flywheel bolts (part# 330-2802 ) and ARP Pressure Plate Bolts (part# 134-2201)
I also bought a Speed Bleeder from www.tickperformance.com part # TPSBL5G
And a Lingenfelter Spring from www.tickperformance.com part # L360091410
|06-12-2013, 07:01 AM||#2|
Now on to the transmission swap….
You need to obviously remove your automatic transmission.
I wont go through all the steps, I am sure there is another DIY on here of how to do that, but basically remove:
Exhaust, heat shields around driveshaft, driveshaft, trans cooler lines, starter, take out the 3 bolts from torque converter to flexplate, cross member, remove transmission, pop off console plate and remove automatic shifter.
Now you are ready to install the 6 speed manual transmission. And again…I wont go through all the steps, I am sure there is another DIY on here of how to do that also (look for how to install a new clutch) ..but basically install:
Flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, (SPEED BLEEDER if you bought one BEFORE installing the transmission !!!) TR6060 transmission, shifter assembly, cross member, driveshaft, heat shields around driveshaft, cooler lines, starter, etc.
Last edited by EZ SPEED; 06-12-2013 at 08:05 AM.
|06-12-2013, 07:01 AM||#3|
Now we are to the major stuff that makes this work in a factory auto car:
Its easiest to remove your driver seat first. Then remove factory Automatic brake pedal assembly. If I remember correctly, there are 4 nuts to the firewall, a bolt and clip for the brake rod, and a wiring connector to remove the assembly.
Removing all of this gives you a little extra room to install the clutch pedal assembly.
It might help to look at a friends 6 speed car to get an idea of how it looks and take measurements if you can.
Grab the pedal assembly and put it up under the dash, look up on the big metal structure and you can see where there are 2 threaded holes that mount the top part of the clutch pedal bracket assembly. I think it uses 10mm bolts ( I had some lying around from another project). Line your bracket assembly up with those holes and you can see where the studs will go through the firewall. Now move the assembly back out of the car. Make a template to drill with by using the gasket from the clutch pedal bracket to firewall as a pattern. Now tape it to the firewall on the inside and drill the 2 mounting holes and the center hole. This is probably the WORST part of this swap other than the wiring.
Once again, this part sucks…upside down on top of your head trying to drill just sucks..but it will all be worth it. Take your time and it will look almost factory.
Once you have the clutch pedal assembly mounted, install your smaller manual trans brake pedal assembly, then re-install your driver seat.
While we are inside the car, let me mention this about the console / shifter assembly stuff.
The factory automatic console plate will work with the new shifter and boot. , but if you are very picky about things looking just right like I am, then you will notice if you bolt down the shifter boot in the factory location that when you pop back on the console plate that there is about a ¼ inch gap at the front that just doesn’t look quite right. But if you move the boot a ¼ of an inch forward and let the bolts just barely catch the plastic on the rear, and no need for the front 2 bolts at all…. it will hold just fine and when you pop the console plate back down everything looks perfect.
One more thing while we are inside the car…..
There is one more issue that we need to take car of while inside.
If you haven’t already noticed, your key is going to be stuck inside the ignition switch and not let you have it back.
Unscrew and pop off the plastic that surrounds the steering column.
Look around where the ignition switch is. There is a plunger type solenoid that is attached to the ignition switch. Put your key into the ignition, turn to the “on” position , now turn it back and try to take the key out. it wont come out. now push the plunger towards the switch and the key comes right out.
So…take a zip-tie and put it around the little arm so that the arm is always toward the ignition switch. So that your key will always come out. this will make more sense when you see it for yourself.
This may seem kind of “redneck engineering” but it works fine and sometimes the best solution is down and dirty like this. If I later find another way, I will update this part.
Last edited by EZ SPEED; 06-12-2013 at 08:06 AM.
|06-12-2013, 07:02 AM||#4|
Now to the last few Mechanical parts:
Install your clutch fluid line from the clutch master down to the trans. install your clutch fluid reservoir and hose to the clutch master. Bleed the clutch. Install the transmission cooler lines and fill the transmission with fluid if you haven’t already.
Now we are at the part that most people don’t like.
My car already had such a heavily modified engine / transmission wiring harness I did mine a little different.
So with that being said…this is just a guess that this will even work for you. (still assuming you have already done the “LS3 conversion” that deletes AFM and VVT)
I would remove the entire L99 wiring harness from the car and install the LS3 harness.
Then have a shop (or individual) with EFI Live, HP Tuners or something similar load a stock file from a factory manual transmission car into your computer. Making sure to turn off the “clutch position sensor” stuff so that the car will crank (because you do not have the wiring for the computer to see that the clutch is pushed in to crank)
Here is how I did mine….
But like I said mine was a “special case” and I think mine was actually harder to do that it would be for a car that is closer to stock with only an LS3 conversion.
I removed my engine / transmission harness from the car.
I then stripped all the tape and plastic wrap off so that it was only wires. Using wiring diagrams from Alldata.com, I started at the transmission connector and traced each and every wire back up to the connectors at the computer and fuse box locations. Then I unpinned each wire that had anything to do with the transmission from the connectors and made notes along the way.
Then I did the same thing to the new LS3 harness.
Then I took all the transmission wiring that I removed for the LS3 harness and pinned back into my connectors by the wiring diagrams. I also compared the 2 harnesses and found a few more wires that were different and moved those into my harness.
Once that was finished and installed back into the car, I uploaded a manual transmission car file using my HpTuners and the car cranked right up.
Last edited by EZ SPEED; 06-12-2013 at 08:46 AM.
|07-01-2013, 04:31 PM||#7|
Drives: 2010 1ssrs
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Edinburg Texas
Wow thats awesome! I didnt think anyone would actaully do it because everyone said it would be super expensive. Do you mind giving a ball park figure of how much it costs to do this? The one thing I regret about my car is that it is auto...
|08-17-2013, 11:30 AM||#9|
Drives: 2014 ZL1 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Dec 2011
Has anyone else done the auto to manual swap?
I have a manual trans and parts shipping in right now.
Tired of the auto shifting issues, especially with the tap shift.
"The salesman actually told me to stop getting it sideways during the test drive; so you can’t say I wasn't trying."
2010 IBM SS Camaro VVT L99 w/ TR6060 swap, 489 rwhp, 444 rwtq
2014 CRT ZL1
|08-22-2013, 11:17 AM||#11|
Drives: 2012 45th ERL-427 F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
M6 Trans - VERY SOLID - For Sale with extras...!!!
I will be posting this in the Market within a few days - but have a complete TR6060 stock (just pulled for a 4L80e). It is from my 45th - exceptional shape - and less than 7000 miles on it.
I also have it equipped with an MGW Self Centering Shifter Mechanism (this is beyond the best of the best shifter mechanism) - and a Hurst Pistol Grip.
I have the stock Clutch (great shape) and will throw in a McCleod RXT twin because disk (3000.00 clutch) at no extra cost because it has some use on it - but would install it in a second, and was using it without issue.
Let me know if reading here and interested and will consider offers, not trying to get rich, but plan to post in the market and eBay this weekend. I will ship on palette my 4L80e came in but clearly local would be fantastic. I am in Louisville KY.
My 2 cents - M6 is the way to go it's just not for the strip. If I had my way it would have remained in the car and loved it.
ERL M3 Superdeck 427 Forged, Dragon Slayer Crank, Black Label Heads : ProCharger F1X Cog - Holley HighRam : Jakes4L80e CircleD - DSS 9" 1400 axles/shaft, BMR Suspension : Extreme Innovations 15 : Squash, Bosch 127lb FI : ALKY Twin Meth
|06-13-2015, 12:32 AM||#15|
Drives: 2012 AGM ZL1
Join Date: Oct 2011
Im having the hardest time finding the clutch and brake pedal assembly for the ZL1.
Build Thread: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...95#post8351295