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Old 06-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #1
SSlim
 
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Lost about 2# boost after intake leak repair

So I had my car in the shop the other day to fix a couple oil leaks. One from valve cover gasket and another from the back side of the whipple and intake i.e. they had to remove the Whipple. They ordered a complete set of gaskets from Whipple and replaced everything while they had it off. No more leaks, but now when I get on it I am only making 9 lbs of boost when before I was making a little over 11. I also get what I can only describe as a burning smell only when I stomp on it. Any ideas what this maybe?

Oh they also installed the RX catch can inline on the line from back of driver side head to port on the whipple. The can is closed, threads completely exposed.

This is driving me nuts because you would think after all the leakes were repaired I would have seen a slight increase in boost.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:13 AM   #2
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Check the tension on the blower belt. You could be smelling a slipping belt that also would cause lowered boost.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
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Roger that! Didn't even consider it. Is there a formal way to check belt tention or do you eye ball it or what?
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Check the tension on the blower belt. You could be smelling a slipping belt that also would cause lowered boost.
My thoughts exactly.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:43 AM   #5
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Roger that! Didn't even consider it. Is there a formal way to check belt tention or do you eye ball it or what?
With the engine off, the markings on the tensioner should be lined up.

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Old 06-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #6
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Will do. And if it is off does anyone have instructions on how to adjust? I didn't not install the Whipple and don't have the manual.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:52 PM   #7
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Your two idler pulleys that are on the same bracket as the tensioner are adjustable. Take the tension off of the belt, loosen the bolt on one of the idlers and slide which ever way would take up belt slack. Tighten the idler pulley bolt and release the tensioner. Keep adjusting the idlers until the lines line up. Recheck after driving a bit.
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:16 PM   #8
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Got it thanks!!
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:49 PM   #9
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Ok so I definitely have belt fragments on the idler an I saw a few fragments and missing pieces in the groves of the belt. So want to adjust the belt, but you can see in the picture that I have the mark on the idler, but nothing on the bracket to line it up with. So how do I adjust that.

I was also looking at the manual and it said to check the bypass actuator. It says with the car off the actuator should be in the closed position and when started should open. Mine is not doing this. Whipple also recommended I put a vacuum pump in it and see if it will stay closed.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:33 PM   #10
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Ok so I just made my own mark and the adjusted it about an 1/8 of an inch over from my mark. Boost is up to 10 now and I am not smelling the burning. So we are headed the right direction, but still about 1.5# short of where it was before it went in to the shop. I guess I should start looking at the actuator next?
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:26 PM   #11
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The actuator has to be carefully taken off to allow the whipple to be removed from the lower manifold. If the shop bent the arm to the actuator, or the linkage, it may be stuck in a partially open position that would allow boost to bleed off via the bypass. The valve should be spring loaded in the closed position, with vacuum pulling it open to bypass mode.

If I can help at all please let me know, I think Ive ran into just about every whipple issue that can happen over the last 2 years.....glad to say mine is all sorted out finally.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:44 AM   #12
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How can I test that it is fully closed and stays closed under boost? Just pull the intake off with the car off and make sure the blade is flat and completely sealed?
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
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How can I test that it is fully closed and stays closed under boost? Just pull the intake off with the car off and make sure the blade is flat and completely sealed?
you can look at the position of the blade without taking anything apart. Just look at the linkage and make sure when the car is off, the arm is against the set screw stop. This is the position it will be in under full boost also. you can then start the car and make sure it goes to full open at idle. If it doesn't, either they damaged the diaphram trying to disconnect the linkage, or the linkage is bent. The diaphram can be bought seperately from whipple for like $75.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:37 AM   #14
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If you PM me your email address, I can send you the whipple instructions that cover this very well. Also check your fuel trims to make sure they are not on the lean side. It is possible the shop rolled one or several of the o rings over for the intake ports causing a vac/boost leak. The car will run ok, but will eventually set lean fuel trim faults. Boost will be lower due to the leak...just something to check.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:39 AM   #15
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OK. I will check fully closed.

It for sure does not open on start up. so I assume thats a sure indicator that we have a problem?

Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:44 AM   #16
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I found the manual online last night so I will review that. Yeah before they go back in I want to check everyting externally so I will check the actuator and then we will check for vac leaks/kinks on all the hoses. If that doesn't work we will go back in.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:26 PM   #17
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Ok so the bypass is closing completely. Is fully against the stop and stuck my fingers through the TB and it feels like it is laying flat in there.

Now I put a vacuum pump on the diaphragm vac line and tried to pump it up. I could squeeze it all day lo g and it would not build pressure. I assume this means blown diaphragm? Could that be causing boost leak? How do I get that actuator out so I can double check my vacuum test on my work bench?
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:32 PM   #18
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Whipple has excellent customer service. I would call them and see what they have to say.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:59 PM   #19
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I did and he just kept saying "your in full boost if its closed all the time." I told him my gauges are not showing boost all the time. I also told him I don't know what else to say it doesn't open on startup and it doesn't open when I apply vacuum. I can't see it while driving so what else can I do? Then he said "maybe the rod is stuck?" I told him I can move it freely. I can even start the car open the valve with a screw driver and when I remove the screw driver it will immediately close. So don't think it's a stuck issue. Again "then your car is in full boost". Ok but it's not making the boost it once did so could a leaky diaphragm become a vacuum leak and cause this? "Not necessarly " WTH? Then tell me what to do... I guess I am going to order a new diaphragm as it certainly is not working properly.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:16 PM   #20
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Bad diaphragm for sure. I can blow and suck through this thing like a straw! Lucky I didn't blow this thing up running full boost everywhere. Will replace this and see if my boost levels return to normal.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #21
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I doubt that alone will cause a 2lb loss, but combine that with your belt slipping issues and I think you have your answer. I would replace the belt, tensioner, and bypass valve. Make sure evrything is adjusted properly and see where you are at. I'm surprised you weren't having a lot of bucking when trying to slow down with that bypass valve like that. Mine made one hell of a squeal when letting off of the throttle quickly when mine went bad, bucked and surged on decel like crazy.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:03 AM   #22
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Yeah was weird. No real drivability issues besides the burning smell, but that was sorted with tightening the belt. Makes me think there is something else leaking, but I will replace the valve tomorrow and see what happens.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:15 PM   #23
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So I replaced the bypass valve today. Good news is that is working like a champ now. Bad news it is still about 1.5# short on boost. :(
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:43 PM   #24
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The hotter the ambient air, the less boost you will make. I don't know if you are comparing boost in cooler temps to hot summer levels.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:21 PM   #25
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Yeah I thought about that, but this has only been a couple weeks it was hot hear already before. The only other thing I can think of is we added the catch can the same time we fixed the intake leak. I may block that off just as a test.
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