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Old 06-12-2013, 07:11 AM   #1
SSlim
 
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Lost about 2# boost after intake leak repair

So I had my car in the shop the other day to fix a couple oil leaks. One from valve cover gasket and another from the back side of the whipple and intake i.e. they had to remove the Whipple. They ordered a complete set of gaskets from Whipple and replaced everything while they had it off. No more leaks, but now when I get on it I am only making 9 lbs of boost when before I was making a little over 11. I also get what I can only describe as a burning smell only when I stomp on it. Any ideas what this maybe?

Oh they also installed the RX catch can inline on the line from back of driver side head to port on the whipple. The can is closed, threads completely exposed.

This is driving me nuts because you would think after all the leakes were repaired I would have seen a slight increase in boost.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:13 AM   #2
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Check the tension on the blower belt. You could be smelling a slipping belt that also would cause lowered boost.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:39 AM   #3
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Roger that! Didn't even consider it. Is there a formal way to check belt tention or do you eye ball it or what?
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SSCAMARO View Post
Check the tension on the blower belt. You could be smelling a slipping belt that also would cause lowered boost.
My thoughts exactly.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:43 AM   #5
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Roger that! Didn't even consider it. Is there a formal way to check belt tention or do you eye ball it or what?
With the engine off, the markings on the tensioner should be lined up.

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Old 06-12-2013, 12:46 PM   #6
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Will do. And if it is off does anyone have instructions on how to adjust? I didn't not install the Whipple and don't have the manual.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:52 PM   #7
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Your two idler pulleys that are on the same bracket as the tensioner are adjustable. Take the tension off of the belt, loosen the bolt on one of the idlers and slide which ever way would take up belt slack. Tighten the idler pulley bolt and release the tensioner. Keep adjusting the idlers until the lines line up. Recheck after driving a bit.
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:16 PM   #8
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Got it thanks!!
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:49 PM   #9
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Ok so I definitely have belt fragments on the idler an I saw a few fragments and missing pieces in the groves of the belt. So want to adjust the belt, but you can see in the picture that I have the mark on the idler, but nothing on the bracket to line it up with. So how do I adjust that.

I was also looking at the manual and it said to check the bypass actuator. It says with the car off the actuator should be in the closed position and when started should open. Mine is not doing this. Whipple also recommended I put a vacuum pump in it and see if it will stay closed.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:33 PM   #10
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Ok so I just made my own mark and the adjusted it about an 1/8 of an inch over from my mark. Boost is up to 10 now and I am not smelling the burning. So we are headed the right direction, but still about 1.5# short of where it was before it went in to the shop. I guess I should start looking at the actuator next?
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #11
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The actuator has to be carefully taken off to allow the whipple to be removed from the lower manifold. If the shop bent the arm to the actuator, or the linkage, it may be stuck in a partially open position that would allow boost to bleed off via the bypass. The valve should be spring loaded in the closed position, with vacuum pulling it open to bypass mode.

If I can help at all please let me know, I think Ive ran into just about every whipple issue that can happen over the last 2 years.....glad to say mine is all sorted out finally.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #12
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How can I test that it is fully closed and stays closed under boost? Just pull the intake off with the car off and make sure the blade is flat and completely sealed?
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlim View Post
How can I test that it is fully closed and stays closed under boost? Just pull the intake off with the car off and make sure the blade is flat and completely sealed?
you can look at the position of the blade without taking anything apart. Just look at the linkage and make sure when the car is off, the arm is against the set screw stop. This is the position it will be in under full boost also. you can then start the car and make sure it goes to full open at idle. If it doesn't, either they damaged the diaphram trying to disconnect the linkage, or the linkage is bent. The diaphram can be bought seperately from whipple for like $75.
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1994 Z28 MSD optispark, K&N CAI, Magnaflow y pipe..Cat..and cat back. 1998 wheels, custom tune(sold )
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1994 Purple Pearl V6...sold
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:37 AM   #14
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If you PM me your email address, I can send you the whipple instructions that cover this very well. Also check your fuel trims to make sure they are not on the lean side. It is possible the shop rolled one or several of the o rings over for the intake ports causing a vac/boost leak. The car will run ok, but will eventually set lean fuel trim faults. Boost will be lower due to the leak...just something to check.
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1994 Z28 MSD optispark, K&N CAI, Magnaflow y pipe..Cat..and cat back. 1998 wheels, custom tune(sold )
1993 Base V6 sold to buy Z28
1994 Purple Pearl V6...sold
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