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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 06-14-2013, 03:08 PM   #1
omgitsmikeyC
Mike
 
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Drives: 2012 Anniversary 2 SS auto
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 974
Slp lm1 and spark plug swap install for 2010+ Camaro (axle back)

I was searching the interwebs on this site and figured I'd share my first mod. I did it in my driveway along with swapping all 8 spark plugs for ngk tr6 plugs.

First off, plan ahead. I called the local auto parts pickup, made site they had the plugs in stock, had coil packs in case I broke one, and an available exhaust cutting chain wrench available in the borrow a tool feature. Checked the weather because storms like to pop up in TX, got junk blanket to lay on and several waters as it is 100 outside. I started about 8 am, when its cooler, on the shade. I've chest had waters, which would have been beers if it was a cooler day.

I also called slp directly to see what distance they recommend from the muffler weld to make the exhaust cut. This is a bolt up system, once you cut the stock mufflers off. That distance by the way is as close to 1 and 3/4 inches from the weld, supplied by Chris at Slp as a service tech for them.

Next, plan your layout. Make sure as the sun moves you will be in the shade for a few hours, as sometimes things go slow or wrong. I laid the ice cooler in the grass, needed a 12mm socket, a spray bottle with water and soap solution, a pipe wrench, the pipe wrench, a standard spark plug remover socket, a rubber mallet,a flat head screw driver and the chain cutter wrench I laid the blanket over the front fenders and bumper and began with the spark plugs.

First i jacked the car up and put on jack stands, so i may recover bolts and tools as they fall out of your hand and inti the engine bay. i mounted the jsck to tge second cross member under the car with a 2x4 block of wood cut down to ablit 7 inches in length to place between jack and body of car, lifted her up and plsced jack stands also with Wood blocks on them at the joint of the cross member and frame. Please pay attention and not move it over the rounded section. Now the plugs were pretty straight forward. I first disconnected the wires from the cloil packs and a sensor on the very first plug near you to the right of the engine that blocks the closest plug area. Then, Using a shop rag, I placed it inside a pipe wrench and gently pulled off the other end of wire from the spark plug. Make sure you grab the metal, and not the rubber part of the wire. Next swapped the plug socket onto the ratchet and unscrewed all of them from back to front. Reverse the process and reinstall. Don't forget to reinstall the sensor, as your car won't run right if you don't. While I had the front end lifted up on jack stands supported at the cross member joint at the body, I figured if remove the heat shields that were rattling against the stock manifold. It's simple, 3 bolts on top, one bolt you have to reach from below. Size ten socket worked on these bolts, and it fell right off.


Now the exhaust. This will sound very simple, the hardest part for me was using a pipe wrench and not a handheld saw. First I lifted the back end with the Joint of rear differential and frame of car, and placed jack stands at either strut tower mount bolt, again with blocks of wood to rest between body and stands. I then laid the blanket down, ate a sandwich, had some water and put out the tools and exhaust pieces.

I measured twice with tape measure from the welds, marked with a red marker, ram the chain over the pipe of the pipe wrench and began cutting. I cut on one for about 30-45 minutes per side, stopping every 15 minutes for water and rest for a few minutes. I think the wrench was well used as the wrench may have needed sharper shims, or I was pacing too slow. Again, it is now one hour later and 94 outside. A hand saw with metal blade on it is ideal. I'm cheap. I used the flat head to pry the seam a little in the gap created from cutting as it progressed to spread the pipes, and used the rubber mallet to break the last 1/4 that would hold on for dear life before the pipe broke into two sections. I manual labored it with the chain pipe cutter and cut and removed both pipes before installing, but I did mock up to make sure cuts were even and at the right measurement. I used a metal file to de- bur the metal and to make a nicer fit for the SLP to slide over. You may want to use a water and soap filled spray bottle to use to spray the rubber exhaust mounts to remove the old exhaust from the hanger. It helps a lot, just spray generously and push and pull, watch out for the bumper cover and diffuser! Now slip on the exhaust into the diffuser holes, align the coupler and slip the exhaust over the old pipe. Make sure you twist and pull to align the tips in the diffuser, and double check before bolting on. Bolt down when positioned well, making sure you have pressed on the exhaust far enough to not leave a where they meet. Once that's done, use your remote start if you have to test pressure and make sure no leak at joints. Pick up any tools under the car, lift off the stands and lower down.


Video linked. Enjoy.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.phpv=666892119994217&l=498888874841780430
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Last edited by omgitsmikeyC; 06-15-2013 at 05:53 AM.
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