|06-17-2013, 10:02 PM||#1|
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oskaloosa, IA
Injector wire relocation
So after looking at several how to threads that gave you a gist of how to make your engine cleaner I took it upon myself to start getting into it. You can read Nathan's thread linked here.
After reading his section with cutting the wire harnesses apart, moving the coils, and finally cutting and lengthening his injector wires (lengthen them enough to change the wires from going from the front of the engine now to the back) I needed to do the same thing.
After reading the section on injector wires there were more questions than any of the other sections both due to lack of pictures/explanation (Due to time contraints) and this seemed to be the most permanent of the modifications with splicing the wires and all.
Tools and materials required:
-Heat gun or Hair dryer for shrink wrapping the wires
-14 gauge wire for main power wire going to each injector
-18 gauge wire for the individual wires to injectors
-An assorted width and length heat shrink tube, I bought one from O Reily's that has 6 assorted widths and lengths.
-Soldering gun is preferred for speed. I could not get a pen to make enough heat for a good connection. My gun was 100 Watts I believe
-Solder and sponge
-Electrical tape just in case the tube doesn't make a good seal.
After personal messages and tearing into it I realized just how simple it was and I was asked by Nate to create a DIY. So here is my best shot.
First I started with opening up the wire harnesses. I took all the tape wrapping the harnesses and cut them with an exacto knife. I cut all the harnesses and separated them out individually much as Nathan did in his thread. This is documented well so I am not going to cover this.
With the wires exposed and separated you will see which ones go the each side of the intake plenum and to the injectors. I labeled them D1, D2, D3, D4 from front to rear for driverside injectors. P1, P2, P3, and P4 for passenger front to rear injector (Easier to do before you take the intake manifold off.)
Do one side at a time. I started on the passenger side.
I took all the wires and sorted them out by wires to injectors and wires to white connector to the fuse box. You should see one 12 V line spliced and going to each injector wire and then each of the injector connections. I labeled each pink line from connector to the splice "12V" for the power wire. I labeled each of the other colored wires P1, P2, P3, and P4 for each of the wires corresponding to each of the injectors previously labeled so P1 injector has P1 labeled on the wire, P2 has P2 on the wire and so on.
The others do not need to be labeled as they are not getting cut, I did and labeled them DO NOT CUT. A good thought to do though is tape them together so you don't mistake them for the ones connected to the injector connectors.
Last edited by krusher; 06-26-2013 at 11:26 AM.
|06-18-2013, 12:13 AM||#2|
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS CGM
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oskaloosa, IA
After they are all organised it is a good idea to document each of the colors just in case one of the labels falls off.
Next comes the hair raising part of cutting apart the splice. If everything is documented and you know which wire goes to which it should be no problem. I cut each of the pink power wires labeled "12V" as close to the splice as possible. I then cut the wires labeled P1A, P2A, P3A, and P4A so they are the same length as the injector connector 12 V wires. The other side of the cut wires I labeled P1B, P2B... you should keep these in mind that "P1A" goes to "P1B". This is important because I used only one color of wire so when all heat wrapped they all look the same.
At this point you should have 4 connectors with a pink wire and another wire sticking out of it with each labeled and of similar length. The splice should still have a intact pink wire from the white connector and a pink wire from the ECM to the splice. I cut the two wires previously mention. I then soldered these two pinks wires together leaving them exposed. (This will come into play later.)
Next, I took a 14 gauge wire and made it to the length to the path that I wanted hide the wire. I hid my harnesses behind the cavity behind the ABS module and then around to the back of the engine.
We now work from P1 connector (Front) to P4 connector (rear). We measure a smaller gauged wire to attach P1A and P1B similar length to the 14 gauge wire. We solder the smaller gauged wire to P1A wire. We solder one end of the 14 Gauge to the 12V wire that goes to the P1 connector. We can slide a shrink wrap tube to each wire and heat up to make the joint water tight. Next we wrap both the 12 V wire and the P1A wire together so when shrink wrapped they look like one wire.
Next, we put the assembled wires on the manifold and mark the 12 V wire where we are going to put the splice for P2 connector. We take a wire stripper and put it at the mark you made and twist the stripper around making a channel. Go another 1/4 of an inch and make another channel. Next take an exacto knife and cut from channel to channel to remove the insulation easily.
We shrink wrap both the new P1A and the 14 gauge together up to the channel we cut off previously
We put a heat shrink tube on the shrink tube the wires on P2 with the ends are exposed. We then put a heat shrink tube on the 14 gauge wire on the side of the channel with the P1 connector. Don't heat it up just yet. We also take another tube and put it over the tube and away from the ends. When soldering we have to be careful not to heat the tubing. We make another smaller gauged wire from P2A to P2B. We solder the P2 12V to the 14 gauge wire and solder the P2A to the smaller gauged wire. Now you can move the tube over the joints and heat them up to make them water tight and look good.
We repeat this until we end up with a large shrink wrap tube with the new longer wires to P1A, P2A, P3A, and P4A and the 14 gauge wire. We can now solder P1A back to P1B, P2A back to P2B and so on. Now solder the 14 gauge
wire coming from the shrink wrap to the exposed 12 V wires we soldered before that connect to the white connector and the fuse box.
Always think ahead by putting the shrink wrap tubing before we solder or your going to end up with a mess.
You should end up with something like this...
Last edited by krusher; 07-05-2013 at 10:39 AM.
|06-18-2013, 05:35 PM||#5|
Drives: Black 2011 Camaro LS
Join Date: Feb 2011
White Fender Hashes from Big Worm Graphix with Custom White Bowties
GM Factory Remote Start and Factory Key Fob
SS Fascia, Factory RS HIDs, Plasma P13W fog lights
Non-RS to RS and fog light harness by Gen5DIY
LED Interior, Trunk, and Licence Plate lights in white
ZL1 Spoiler with Gen5DIY harness
Factory NPP cat back
Blacked out tail light bezels
Factory 20 inch wheels wrapped in Nitto Motivos
Lowered 1.25inch on Eibach Pro springs
|06-18-2013, 05:51 PM||#6|
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Amazing write up though
|06-18-2013, 06:49 PM||#7|
Join Date: Sep 2010
[QUOTE=krusher;6683039]After personal messages and tearing into it I realized just how simple it was and I was asked by Nate to create a DIY. So here is my best shot.[/QUOTE]
Awesome write up Krusher! As you stated, this is a very easy mod to perform that makes a huge difference. The biggest hurdle is just getting out there and doing it.
My recommendation for most would be just to remove the wire loom to get familiar with how the wires are routed. You'll see there's not much to it and it will become less intimidating.
This is also one of the cheapest mods you can do to clean up the engine bay.
|06-28-2013, 01:51 PM||#9|
Drives: Camaro ZL575
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Benito, TX
I need more pictures, this looks great but as you said is very intimidating.
2010 Camaro ZL575
Other cars are- 95 BMW 325 sedan- AA exhaust, AA CAI, AA Strut bar, AA chip, M3 rotors and calipers, racing clutch, oversized injectors, upgraded M3 interior- Audi A4 SLine, with black out optics