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Old 06-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #1
Storm T
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Tweet Tweet

I've got a pretty nice system in The Blue Bolt. My components are JLAudio ZR's. Hopefully I can find an expert that can school me a bit. On the drivers side the tweeter is dead. Not a bit of sound. For someone like me it's excruciating but the system still sounds good.

When a tweeter goes bad, does it just die or is there warning signs? Popping, etc. I had none of that. I'm wondering if it's just wiring inside the door at the crossover.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
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I've got a pretty nice system in The Blue Bolt. My components are JLAudio ZR's. Hopefully I can find an expert that can school me a bit. On the drivers side the tweeter is dead. Not a bit of sound. For someone like me it's excruciating but the system still sounds good.

When a tweeter goes bad, does it just die or is there warning signs? Popping, etc. I had none of that. I'm wondering if it's just wiring inside the door at the crossover.
Tweeters usually just die...no warning signs.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #3
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That figures. Too bad you can't buy just 1.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:18 PM   #4
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I'm on my 3rd set of tweetz installing this weekend... had a capacitor put into the stock BA to mesh w the amps... they blew. No warning.next came JL C5... they blew... so I put the one remaining from each which I got "used to"... they blew. Just got the JL ZRs today... hoping for better results. BTW; each time one goes, I don't necessarily "hear" it... but my ears ring like hell. I'm running a JL 7/500 amp with C5 speakers and stealthbox.
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #5
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I hope you have better results too. I'm running the 900 with the stealth too. Mine is just dead. You can't hear anything out of it. Drives me kind of crazy. However, the dealer I bought my car from is about to talk me into getting another new one. lol Do you have to remove the whole panel to replace the tweeters?
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:12 PM   #6
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My passenger side tweeter blew Monday, and it still works clean up till the volume starts to get good, then it sounds like half the cone is flapping on the surround. It's a Rockford Fosgate T2652 component tweet. I don't know what took it out, but the replacement pair won't be in till Monday, so it sucks no being able to turn it up.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:41 AM   #7
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Luckily I can turn mine up but it just doesn't have that wonderful sound I'm used to.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I hope you have better results too. I'm running the 900 with the stealth too. Mine is just dead. You can't hear anything out of it. Drives me kind of crazy. However, the dealer I bought my car from is about to talk me into getting another new one. lol Do you have to remove the whole panel to replace the tweeters?
Nope. The triangle housing is just clipped to the door, then one screw opens it up. Only time you'll need to remove the panel is if the installer didn't leave enough slack in the wire to work with...

I'll post some pix for you as I do mine today.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:45 AM   #9
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My passenger side tweeter blew Monday, and it still works clean up till the volume starts to get good, then it sounds like half the cone is flapping on the surround. It's a Rockford Fosgate T2652 component tweet. I don't know what took it out, but the replacement pair won't be in till Monday, so it sucks no being able to turn it up.
After going thru multiple tweets; id say yours isn't blown; just loose from the housing and the vibration/rattle is the speaker against the housing. I have yet to find a "perfect fit" to the factory housing, all mine had to be rigged in order to mount... sounds like yours may just have come loose. Easy to remove and check and a lot cheaper fix than a replacement!
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
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Nope. The triangle housing is just clipped to the door, then one screw opens it up. Only time you'll need to remove the panel is if the installer didn't leave enough slack in the wire to work with...

I'll post some pix for you as I do mine today.
That's F'n awesome man! Thanks! I thought it looked like those would come off by themselves. Looking forward to the pics.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:58 AM   #11
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Just got done w the install; waiting for computer to load so i can post pix. Took about 2 hrs as I had to modify the speakers themselves to fit... got some good pix. Give me 20 min and I'll have them up. And yeah; was a blown tweet again.

This links to the wiring diagram for pos/neg... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33592
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:24 PM   #12
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replacement

this is really straight forward, but since I'm a visual person myself and already doing it, hopefully this will help someone...

My pix didn't upload in order for whatever reason, but you'll get the idea...

opend your door/window, pop the entire triangular speaker housing off... pretty sturdy clips, so I wouldn't be too worry about them breaking.one screw on the rear holds the housing together and allows access to the tweeter.

The GM B/A has that ginormous clip attachmentas I've been through several sets, and various combos, you'll note mine was already hastely spliced before...anyway, if you have this, just snip the wires below so its still useable if the need ever arises... and remove the entore tweeter.I linked the wiring guide in the post above... gray and tan on drivers, light and dark green on passenger. Check the diagram for polarity. Especially important with the inline capacitors you'll most likely be installing w the tweets.

Note the JL ZR's have a large retarded plastic ring around the outside. Looks pretty, but doesn't fit the housing.. I forgot to take a pic of my blown C5 before discarding, so thats a grainy pic of it floating in the trash... signicficantly smaller.

A little handy work with a dremmel trimmed down the outter edge and allowed the speaker to fit perfectly against the housing mount. I used a touch of hot glue on the exterior (I know, I know... heat... speakers... etc...) just be careful... same goes w dremmeling so close...add to that a piece of 1" foam insullation on the back of the spaker housing, gave a nice, super snug fit when closing up the triangle casing. The C5's I had to actually wrap the exterior with tape to make it fit snugly in the housing... GM's good at making things fit just wrong.

Anyway... really simple and straight forward. I did clean up the edges of the speaker where I trimmed it after the picture... that was just for illustration purposes.

Also, I loosened up the door panels to access the slack in the speaker wire as I'd cut it too closesly during the other 30 installs... also simple.

remove the plastic tray in the arm rest to access the large hex head screw, remove the plastic cover behind the door handle to access the socket nut, remove the 3 additional socket nuts along the door frame, pop the top ledge with a trim tool... don't have to pull the whole pannel, just enough to access the wires if need be.

Hope this is helpful

BTW- 150% improvement over the C5s!
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:58 PM   #13
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First of all I wanted to say thank you so much! That is an awesome write up and pictures.

Now, I have to apologize because I went crazy today / tonight and traded my car in for a brand new one. I know you went to lots of trouble doing this and I will surely use this later when I get ready to upgrade my stuff for this car. I feel awful that you did this for me and I went and traded the car. I really didn't think I was going to do it but saw and drove this thing and got a deal I couldn't refuse. Thank you again for all that work and I bet those sound way better!!
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:02 AM   #14
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No problem! I was swapping them out anyway. Congrats on the new car; enjoy!!!!
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:14 AM   #15
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Thanks man!! That'll help lots of people for sure.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drago77 View Post
After going thru multiple tweets; id say yours isn't blown; just loose from the housing and the vibration/rattle is the speaker against the housing. I have yet to find a "perfect fit" to the factory housing, all mine had to be rigged in order to mount... sounds like yours may just have come loose. Easy to remove and check and a lot cheaper fix than a replacement!
I have been pounded with overtime this week, so had no time to remove the door panels to check. The installer put the screw back in so I could not unclip the housing. So do you think hot glue would hold it? I'll give that a test after work tonight.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:29 PM   #17
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I have been pounded with overtime this week, so had no time to remove the door panels to check. The installer put the screw back in so I could not unclip the housing. So do you think hot glue would hold it? I'll give that a test after work tonight.
OT=$$$=mods!!!!

Hot glue will hold.... that's what I used last time and this time; I also used a small piece of 1" thick weatherstripping on the back of the speaker which holds it tight against the back of the housing. I still think its just loose for ya; much better than replacing the whole speaker; everyone I blew went completely silent.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #18
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Today I got my blown tweeter issue fixed.. The tweeter was good after all.

What I did was convert from high level input to the MS-8, into line level inputs by soldering RCA jacks to the front low level input wires of the BA Amp's X3 connector (pins +15, -7 for Left and +14, -6 for Right) .

This gave me stereo line out from the Mylink HU to feed the MS-8.

At first I was worried I might loose Onstar, but it stayed functional.

Then after calibrating the MS-8 and setting my amp gains I turned it up, and the right tweeter sounded blown again.

So I decide to try one more thing, I unplugged the BA Amp's X2 connector, which only has the center channel speaker on it. This fixed the right tweeter sounding blown.

So I thought about why? Well The MS-8 adds a time delay to time align the speakers, and the center channel must somehow be biased to the right speaker. When I get any clipping on the right tweeter, I am getting it first from the center channel speaker and milliseconds later the tweeter finishes with that same signal, making it sound terrible and blown.

There is ever so slight clipping on some of my MP3's, which must be the root cause, but using a processor means no un-processed channels can be used.

Thanks for the tips Drago77!
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:42 PM   #19
Drago77
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Good diagnosis rray!

Glad everyone's systems are up n running!
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