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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 06-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #1
Da Mammer
 
Drives: 2010 camaro SS LSXFoFiddyFo
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have a v8, 6-speed, and more than 450rwhp? this ? Is for you...

So just wondering from you guys that have been there done that. When you get past a certain point in power notice the clutch starts halving its return from shift to shift at high throttle. Now I understand that it's heat attributed to centrifugal forces that break down the clutch fluid (dot 3 brake fluid) viscosity, but I have also been told that the simple fix is a heavy duty clutch return spring. My question is have you changed to dot 4 for a higher viscosity breakdown point fluid ~120 degrees higher boiling point (and therefor bled the entire brake line), or did you just swap the clutch return spring to solve the issue and how well did either work? And apparently i have to throw it in here as well but i DON'T have a stock clutch anymore. i have a ZR1 clutch/pressure plate thats well overrated (960ft lbs) for my current power. no speeches on 'just slapping in a better clutch/pressure plate'. Thanks.
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Last edited by Da Mammer; 06-25-2013 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
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im exactly at that power point and my clutch is spongey after some fun driving. honestly man ur clutch is just holding on by a thread anyways so u can keep doing all the cheap easy fixes that prolonge the inevitable or do what i did and buy a clutch design for ur power and driving style. Mantic 9000 was my choice light weight and can easily handle the power when i slap the whipple on it as well. either way man good luck.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:15 PM   #3
paul84043
 
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I think a tranny/clutch rebuild is in my future for this exact reason.
I have no intention of ever selling my Camaro, I will simply continue to modify and repair as necessary to keep her new and hot.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroRND2 View Post
im exactly at that power point and my clutch is spongey after some fun driving. honestly man ur clutch is just holding on by a thread anyways so u can keep doing all the cheap easy fixes that prolonge the inevitable or do what i did and buy a clutch design for ur power and driving style. Mantic 9000 was my choice light weight and can easily handle the power when i slap the whipple on it as well. either way man good luck.

Not looking for a cheap fix, im looking for the solution to the problem. I have an 8 bolt Lingenfelter flywheel and zr1 style twin disc clutch rated for 960 ft lbs. I don't think the issue is my clutch..
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:41 PM   #5
two_wheel_mayhem
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Has nothing to do with your clutch fluid.

All about the centripetal force holding your pressure plate disengaged at high rpm.

Solution is buying pressure plate with more spring pressure (non-stock)
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:51 AM   #6
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Is there noone with the burden of knowledge able to answer?
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #7
Good2go
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I wish I could help, I'm at 490rwhp on the stock clutch with no problems.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:48 PM   #8
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I've had no problems with the stock clutch but havent drag raced yet, just spirited rowing.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #9
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I had this problem on boltons. -.-
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #10
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Saw this posted this morning. I dont have a answer but maybe the wrong section to ask... go to the v8 bolton section and find, dont remember but like the hardcore of camaro owners that been there done that and push it to the limit thread.
Maybe someone will give you the link im talking about
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good2go View Post
I wish I could help, I'm at 490rwhp on the stock clutch with no problems.
Same here. Never had any issues.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:57 AM   #12
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I'm running the Mantic 9000 twin-disk clutch and I'm using Super Blue brake fluid. No problem with the clutch pedal return. It's a great clutch; much smoother and better feel than stock. Try upgrading the brake fluid first then see how your clutch performs. I also have stainless steel braided brake lines which may help in keeping the line pressure consistent since they don't expand when hot like the rubber factory lines.

I'm going to separate the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs to keep clutch dust out of the brake lines but that solution might also help you with your issue. I haven't looked but are the lines from the clutch to the master cylinder hard steel or soft rubber? If they're rubber try replacing with braided SS so they don't expand when hot.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc View Post
I'm running the Mantic 9000 twin-disk clutch and I'm using Super Blue brake fluid. No problem with the clutch pedal return. It's a great clutch; much smoother and better feel than stock. Try upgrading the brake fluid first then see how your clutch performs. I also have stainless steel braided brake lines which may help in keeping the line pressure consistent since they don't expand when hot like the rubber factory lines.

I'm going to separate the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs to keep clutch dust out of the brake lines but that solution might also help you with your issue. I haven't looked but are the lines from the clutch to the master cylinder hard steel or soft rubber? If they're rubber try replacing with braided SS so they don't expand when hot.
Thanks for the input doc. Where did you get your SS lines from might I ask? Btw i followed the thread on your car awesome job with the weight program you've done on your car, very nice work sir.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:06 PM   #14
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Only time I've had problems is at the drag strip. Damn near didn't have a clutch the first time I left.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:17 PM   #15
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Da Mammer - I had the same problems - but I have found the definitive and best fix, and my setup works!

I have a Street Slayer Carbon Twin Disk clutch setup. At the same time, I found a place online that sells these fittings that convert the GM clutch hose fittings to -4AN hose fittings. I then got the braided stainless brake line for a desert pre-runner (very long braided brake line). I ran this from the stock master cylinder, into a McLeod hydraulic TOB line lock. From the LL, I cut the stock steel line, flared it, and bolted it to the LL and it's the steel line going into the TOB. NO MORE ISSUES with spongy pedal feel, pedal not coming all the way back up, etc. I also installed a clutch fluid reservoir from a Honda Accord so that the clutch uses an isolated supply. Also installed a remote bleeder for the whole setup.

It's a bit of work - but if you are as brutal on your car as I am with launches and power shifts, then I would say it's worth the effort. Oh, and I also bypassed the clutch switch that closes the throttle blade when you press in the clutch during high-RPM shifts, so I have true, full-throttle, powershifts happening on each shift now. Feel free to email me if I can be of any assistance.

BLESSINGS!
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