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Camaro Z/28 Forum - Z/28 Specific Topics Discussions related to the 5th gen Camaro Z/28 model

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Old 07-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #1
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CCB Burnishing

Will the Z/28 require the same CCB burnishing process as the ZR-1?
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:01 PM   #2
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Whats the process with the ZR1?
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary B View Post
Whats the process with the ZR1?
This is from page 9-7 from the 2013 Owner's manual:

Z06 with Z07 and ZR1 Performance Package Brake Burnish Procedure
Notice: These procedures are specific to the Z06 and ZR1 Performance Package with ceramic brake rotors. These procedures should not be run on
other Corvette models as damage may result.

Notice: The new vehicle break‐in period should be completed before performing the brake burnish procedure or damage may occur to the powertrain/engine. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 9‑16.

When performed as instructed, these procedures will not damage
the brakes. During the burnishing procedure, the brake pads will
smoke and produce an odor. The braking force and pedal travel may
increase. After the procedure is complete, the brake pads may
appear white at the rotor contact.

Street High Performance Brake Burnishing Procedure
Run this procedure in a safe manner and in compliance with all
local and state ordinances/laws regarding motor vehicle operation.
Run this procedure only on dry pavement.
1. From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 97 kph (60 mph).
2. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in four to five seconds. If ABS activates, braking is too hard.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2, five times. This should take about 10 minutes.
4. After completing the 50 stops, cool the brakes by driving for 8 km (5 mi) at 97 kph (60 mph).

As with all high performance brake systems, some amount of brake squeal is normal.

iirc - there is also a separate track day burnishing procedure.

When I did this, it was hard to find a place to safely do it; I was worried about being pulled over by the police; smoke billowed out of the wheel wells. Mine was a 2010, and the owner's manual said if I didn't complete all the steps within a certain timeframe, I had to start over from scratch.

edit - the ZR1s were also shipped with blue foam protectors that are supposed to be put on the rotors when removing/installing the wheels to protect the rotors fom accidental contact/nick from the wheel.

Last edited by Combover; 07-02-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:06 PM   #4
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Interesting....I assume it would be the same deal with the Z.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:21 PM   #5
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One other note -- the rotors were blamed for steering wheel vibration at about 70 mph. Many owners complained, however I did not experience the vibration in mine.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:19 PM   #6
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i hated that procedure, I initially didnt know about it and almost crashed into a round about cause the brakes werent stopping me, long story...
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:46 PM   #7
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...there is a beak in process for the brakes that should have been done early on, and it is in the manual, and specific in nature for the ZL1....I imagine it will be the same for the Z/28, once everything is announced. No ones knows much about anything in specific terms about the Z/28 right now, it's all generalities.
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Old 08-04-2013, 10:55 AM   #8
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All brakes meant to be used in a performance environment, CCB or not, should be bedded/seasoned properly. The recommended techniques are similar to what is described above for many rotors/pads out there. Yes, it's a pain, but not unique to CCB.
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:33 AM   #9
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Okay step 3 says do steps 1, and 2 five (5) times. Then step 4 says "after completing the 50 stops" Where did the 50 suddenly come from. That's 10 times what it says to do in step 3. Has anyone verified this?
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:37 AM   #10
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what i know if you drive to 60mph and brake to almost zero without letting ABS kick in, and you do this 50 times consecutively. Then drive the car for 10 miles without using the brakes as much as possible for them to cool. Then if the car will be used on a roadcourse there was an additional procedure to be done at the track.

One of the German ZR1 owners took his car to 300 and back to zero for 3 times consecutively not sure that was the best way but the trick is to get the brakes really hot for x amount of time to "cook" off the adhesives in the pad material otherwise it forms some kind of a boundary layer between the rotors and pads and what you feel is no brake force applied.

I learnt the hard way, never had to bed in an iron rotor, unless you want to use them on the track right away perhaps?
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayousef View Post
never had to bed in an iron rotor, unless you want to use them on the track right away perhaps?
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