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Old 07-20-2013, 02:06 PM   #1
MichaelH
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money to spend

So guys I have a little extra money to spend in the ZL1 I already have a oil catch can and I just bought front splash guards. Anyways I have 6k to spend and I'm really trying to spend our wisely and get the most out of it. I know I want a intake and full exhaust (headers back) but not sure on what kind of exhaust yet tuning doesn't bother me either. After those two things not sure if to go blower cam and smaller pulley our what. Lol what would you guys do with 6k to spend if you were in my shoes
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:24 PM   #2
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Intake, heat exchanger, pulley, tune, likely will need injectors, headers with high-flow cats....around 7K I would think?
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:33 PM   #3
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Lend the 6k to your friend so he can turbo his 1LE lol

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Old 07-20-2013, 03:07 PM   #4
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Lol but wouldn't you rather see the potential of mine haha
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:15 PM   #5
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get a real supercharger added to the car, sell the crappy one on there for the difference.....
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #6
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Intake, pulleys, and tune give you the most bang for the buck. From there it is a matter of what you plan on doing with the car as far as track use, quarter mile etc....
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhyder View Post
get a real supercharger added to the car, sell the crappy one on there for the difference.....
I was thinking of the Whipple 2900 lol but I'll need to get stronger internals to get to the potential of the supercharger lol but that is in future works though
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
Intake, pulleys, and tune give you the most bang for the buck. From there it is a matter of what you plan on doing with the car as far as track use, quarter mile etc....
Ya seems to be the normal thing to do this little build I plan to just get to a little over 600 and I'll be happy should hold over till my serious build this winter next spring
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:00 PM   #9
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Ya seems to be the normal thing to do this little build I plan to just get to a little over 600 and I'll be happy should hold over till my serious build this winter next spring
I jumped in big on my Camaro but I think you are thinking correctly in that you should have forged internals before you throw a huge blower on the motor. Some don't and it seems to work for them but only you know how hard you will drive the car.

After the pulleys the next step is the cam, if you do the cam it would be good to do the heads. There is debate on this board regarding headers and exhaust. It is my opinion that the heads and cam need to be done before the headers. This is a forced induction engine, you must maintain intake pressure for the most efficient combustion, removing back pressure from the exhaust to soon can reduce the gains in intake boost levels.

I have headers and the exhaust is completely stock behind the headers with the exception of the ADM exhaust controller that allows with the touch of a button, all exhaust to go through the muffler instead of the bypass at idle and WOT. Stock mufflers have no measurable difference on the dyno vs. the open baffles. (more evidence that some back pressure is helpful in forced induction engines).
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
I jumped in big on my Camaro but I think you are thinking correctly in that you should have forged internals before you throw a huge blower on the motor. Some don't and it seems to work for them but only you know how hard you will drive the car.

After the pulleys the next step is the cam, if you do the cam it would be good to do the heads. There is debate on this board regarding headers and exhaust. It is my opinion that the heads and cam need to be done before the headers. This is a forced induction engine, you must maintain intake pressure for the most efficient combustion, removing back pressure from the exhaust to soon can reduce the gains in intake boost levels.

I have headers and the exhaust is completely stock behind the headers with the exception of the ADM exhaust controller that allows with the touch of a button, all exhaust to go through the muffler instead of the bypass at idle and WOT. Stock mufflers have no measurable difference on the dyno vs. the open baffles. (more evidence that some back pressure is helpful in forced induction engines).
I actually don't drive my car very hard at all but I'd rather be safe than sorry with that much power. I was probably going to cam and head work with stronger valves and rockers and lifters all at the same time as I do headers on back exhaust. I'll most likely tune it for e85 as well but I'll have way bigger injectors over 1000cc and a twin fuel pump to go along with it. Than arp bolt everything when I forge it when it comes to it. Than again this is all in future build in the next year
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:18 PM   #11
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dont you have to replace the whole fuel system to use E85? or does the ZL1 have the stainless tank and lines already?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:30 PM   #12
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dont you have to replace the whole fuel system to use E85? or does the ZL1 have the stainless tank and lines already?
I think adm did a thread on it and said only thing needed was bigger fuel pump and stronger injectors and than a good tune
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:12 PM   #13
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So guys I have a little extra money to spend in the ZL1 I already have a oil catch can and I just bought front splash guards. Anyways I have 6k to spend and I'm really trying to spend our wisely and get the most out of it. I know I want a intake and full exhaust (headers back) but not sure on what kind of exhaust yet tuning doesn't bother me either. After those two things not sure if to go blower cam and smaller pulley our what. Lol what would you guys do with 6k to spend if you were in my shoes
I think 6K could go along way. I've put right at $3200 into mine with strong gains.

RotoFab $400
Kooks stepped headers $930
Kooks Cats $150
9.55 pulley, Innovators West damper, Belt, Idler pulley and crank bolt $500
ID850 injectors $735
Lingenfelter larger intercooler reservoir $75
Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump $350
HP Tuners license $99

That still leaves room with a 6K budget to do a cam and valvesprings which would bring a ZL1 up to 700+ RWHP
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:25 PM   #14
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I think adm did a thread on it and said only thing needed was bigger fuel pump and stronger injectors and than a good tune
I thought it ate through anything unless you got rid of the plastic and rubber parts.....or caused it to deteriorate quickly anyways...

could just be sales man talk though I dont know
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #15
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I thought it ate through anything unless you got rid of the plastic and rubber parts.....or caused it to deteriorate quickly anyways...

could just be sales man talk though I dont know
Idk I had e85 tune for 2 years on my v6 and 40+k miles lol
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
I think 6K could go along way. I've put right at $3200 into mine with strong gains.

RotoFab $400
Kooks stepped headers $930
Kooks Cats $150
9.55 pulley, Innovators West damper, Belt, Idler pulley and crank bolt $500
ID850 injectors $735
Lingenfelter larger intercooler reservoir $75
Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump $350
HP Tuners license $99

That still leaves room with a 6K budget to do a cam and valvesprings which would bring a ZL1 up to 700+ RWHP
Nice I'll def keep that all in mine but I'm going catless so I'll save money there
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:21 PM   #17
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Wickipedia so take it for what its worth

"Corrosion debate[edit]
There is vehement debate regarding issues with fuel systems and E85. Allegedly, due to chemical differences between E85 and gasoline, fuel systems and engines not designed or modified to use E85 suffer increased wear and may fail prematurely. However, some researchers come to the opposite conclusion (Footnote 28)."

from myth buster site:

1. E85 Ethanol is corrosive

Yes ethanol is corrosive, but not very much. Gasoline is corrosive too. Ethanol is biodegradable in water. So it has a tendency to contain and attract water. It is not the corrosive properties of ethanol that can cause damage to your vehicle; it is the water which can rust a vehicle’s fuel system from the inside out. Today’s vehicles (since mid 1980s) have fuel systems which are made to withstand corrosive motor fuels and rust from water. Also today’s distilling processes are superior to way back when. We now have better techniques for drying out ethanol or reducing the water content.

On side note, gas contains water too. Ever hear of dry gas?

http://www.change2e85.com/servlet/Page?template=Myths


So I guess it is not actually corrosive, I just thought since many of the car manufacturers were stating they wouldn't cover warranty repairs on vehicles that were damaged using ethanol kinda reinforced that rumor in the back of my mind......

Not trying to jack the thread, just wanted to point out my concerns appear to be unwarranted.......
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #18
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No it's good info and yea it seems nowadays cars can handle allot more when it comes to this
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