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Old 10-29-2013, 10:31 PM   #401
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I still think the stalling is from lack of air across the MAF when the throttle is closed, the air is stalling around the MAY, no flow. Try running the car with the MAF not in the tube, it will not run...
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:40 PM   #402
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From what my logs are showing on the VC60C1 tune when coasting down to a stop at the 40-30 mph mark the MAF is reading 80 CFM going across and the injectors are firing at 1.8ms causing an extreme rich condition and killing the engine almost. On the V60C1D tune the MAF is reading 40 CFM and a injector pulse of 1 to 1.37ms and the car doesn't stall.

For some reason the V60C1D tune is reading lower MAF at the same speed and same RPM as the V60C1 tune. Now when the car gets into the 5000 RPM range the V60C1D tune has the injectors at 10.3ms and the V60C1 tune has them at 5.14ms. The V60C1D tune gets the AFR at 10:1 causing a fuel knock and V60C1 tune is too lean at 13:1 causing knock retard.

I am going to send Arno an AFR list and some MAF readings, but the V60C1D tune needs to be left alone from 0 to 4000 RPM's and have 5% of the fuel removed from 4000+ RPM's as a start. See if he responds back.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:56 PM   #403
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Went to the track night for the final time this year. Couldn't race my wife's Mustang since the driveshaft is vibrating at 100 mph from the gear swap. My first time I did a hero run of 13.429 @ 106.90. The next runs were bad, spinning and wheel hop.

I was running V60C7 tune, last week I was running the V60C10 tune. My trap speed was 101 last week and this week was 107. Difference was the knock retard was only 4 degrees instead of 8 degrees. DA was also lower last week, going to give Arno the data, but its getting better.

My video of the hero run.


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Old 11-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #404
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Nice runs. My runs did the same as the night cooled down. Totally lost traction when it got colder. It's nice that once your off the line you can floor it being an auto. Think that being a manual for launch there's a lot if holding back otherwise car will spin out first the whole way and go sideways and my car has a lot of spin in second gear as well.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:51 PM   #405
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Nice runs. My runs did the same as the night cooled down. Totally lost traction when it got colder. It's nice that once your off the line you can floor it being an auto. Think that being a manual for launch there's a lot if holding back otherwise car will spin out first the whole way and go sideways and my car has a lot of spin in second gear as well.
Thanks, first time I had wheel hop at the track and I have subframe inserts and trailing arms. May need toe rods now.

The crappy thing is I got lined up against 3 V6 and it was completely unfair. See if Arno can get rid of the 4 degrees of knock regard that is still there.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:02 AM   #406
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Thanks, first time I had wheel hop at the track and I have subframe inserts and trailing arms. May need toe rods now.

The crappy thing is I got lined up against 3 V6 and it was completely unfair. See if Arno can get rid of the 4 degrees of knock regard that is still there.
The car isn't holding back it's me that has to hold back otherwise ill spin. I know what u mean about toe rods. I also need bushings as well. It's good to see more Sc v6s on the track.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:03 PM   #407
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How's the car running magnum?
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:29 PM   #408
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If not for the stalling, the car would be almost perfect. The stalling issue is pissing me off though and I just now finally got back into contact with IPF since their server placed my emails as spam. Started ordering parts to upgrade to a 1LE rear end and debating going one size smaller on the pulley.

Also trying to get replacement parts for when I have to cut the supercharger bolts out since they are stripped and getting a new oil catch can.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:58 PM   #409
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Hope you get that stalling issue worked out, but keep us updated on the smaller pulley.

If you ever need bolts for the one you stripped, you can go to a Fastenal. One of the bolts from IPF was too big and needed a extra one. They aren't shiny, but if in a pinch they'll work (but the SC hides my spare.)
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Old 12-11-2013, 03:12 PM   #410
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Thanks, got my new bolts from the nutty store. Need to get everything apart to repaint the brackets and supercharger also since they got scratched up. Think high heat rattle can will work?

I have some BMR lowering springs coming in and my new toe rods got here last week, but its too cold to work in the garage. I used to work outside in this cold weather fixing jets, but I was a lot younger and getting paid for it.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #411
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
If not for the stalling, the car would be almost perfect. The stalling issue is pissing me off though and I just now finally got back into contact with IPF since their server placed my emails as spam. Started ordering parts to upgrade to a 1LE rear end and debating going one size smaller on the pulley.

Also trying to get replacement parts for when I have to cut the supercharger bolts out since they are stripped and getting a new oil catch can.
I hope I'm not jinxing myself, but my car has never stalled since my IPF installation- normal idle speed at all times.

I know every LLT seems a little different, but inquire to Andy about the tune I've got and see if it wouldn't work for yours too. The tune was labeled for use with long tube headers and no cats.

I've also just thrown my stock cats back on without adverse effect and without changing tunes (still using my JBA short tubes). Thing still runs like a champ. I've been monitoring short and long term trims and while it's not going as high on positive short terms, everything still seems fine.

I also have to report that despite well worn P-Zeros and 8" of snow in a town with no snow plows or salt and after dark with temps dropping fast- my S/C'd V6 manual trans made it 9 miles home (uphill 8miles) often turning just 1K rpm out of necessity without missing a beat.

People can say how much better the "maggies" are than centrifugal superchargers, but when you need progressive power, that Vortech is hard to beat! And IPF can tune a LLT!
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #412
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I hope I'm not jinxing myself, but my car has never stalled since my IPF installation- normal idle speed at all times.

I know every LLT seems a little different, but inquire to Andy about the tune I've got and see if it wouldn't work for yours too. The tune was labeled for use with long tube headers and no cats.

I've also just thrown my stock cats back on without adverse effect and without changing tunes (still using my JBA short tubes). Thing still runs like a champ. I've been monitoring short and long term trims and while it's not going as high on positive short terms, everything still seems fine.

I also have to report that despite well worn P-Zeros and 8" of snow in a town with no snow plows or salt and after dark with temps dropping fast- my S/C'd V6 manual trans made it 9 miles home (uphill 8miles) often turning just 1K rpm out of necessity without missing a beat.

People can say how much better the "maggies" are than centrifugal superchargers, but when you need progressive power, that Vortech is hard to beat! And IPF can tune a LLT!
Does your car ever dip in RPM's while coming to a stop from 45+ mph at around 30 mph? Mine has only stalled once in the past week but every day after the car has warmed up the engine will dip in RPM's around 30 mph when coming to a stop and the smell of fuel is very strong. I have a theory about why its doing it but will take time to test it.

Do you know what tune you are running? The current tune I have has near 0% LTFT's. The one prior to that was +25% LTFT's and causing massive problems with WOT runs from being too rich.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:26 PM   #413
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Would love to know your theory on the rpm dip. Latest tune has been good with no stall but there is still a dip.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:43 AM   #414
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Does your car ever dip in RPM's while coming to a stop from 45+ mph at around 30 mph? Mine has only stalled once in the past week but every day after the car has warmed up the engine will dip in RPM's around 30 mph when coming to a stop and the smell of fuel is very strong. I have a theory about why its doing it but will take time to test it.

Do you know what tune you are running? The current tune I have has near 0% LTFT's. The one prior to that was +25% LTFT's and causing massive problems with WOT runs from being too rich.
Do you have the black ice insulator?
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:09 PM   #415
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Would love to know your theory on the rpm dip. Latest tune has been good with no stall but there is still a dip.
I think it has to do with the PCV system. Last night I took the catch can line that went from the can to the intake tube pre-supercharger and branched it off with a 3/8th's line to the intake manifold. Since I didn't have a check valve I couldn't drive into boost range but when coming to a stop the RPM's didn't dip below 500 RPM's. I am ordering an E2 can with a single check valve to put on the dirty side while keeping the IPF can on the clean side for now to see if this works.

Right before the stall the IM pressure is -25 in/hg and the AFR goes to 10:1. On the OEM setup the IM vacuum would be pulling air from the air tube after the MAF, through the crankcase and into the intake manifold. The MAF would see this air travelling through the crankcase. With the IPF setup the IM vacuum is still there but it is not getting any air from that tube. The MAF is still seeing air moving though because of the supercharger spinning, so its trying to add fuel to burn off what it thinks is crankcase fumes but there is no air. When I branched the line last night it provided some air to help, but it is not the ideal setup since the IM vacuum was fighting the supercharger inlet vacuum and the air in the crankcase probably was not moving around much.

This is just a theory, I'll be testing it when I get the oil catch can. If it doesn't work at least I'll have a can that can capture all the oil that is by-passing the catch can now.

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Do you have the black ice insulator?
Yes, I have the spacer installed but it stalls with or without the spacer.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:20 AM   #416
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My car is stock 2011 Manuel . Now other modification and has stalled three times in 600miles
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:01 PM   #417
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Yesterday I drove the car after hooking it back up to the IPF setting and she tried to stall within 5 minutes. I will be testing the hell out of it after I get my oil catch can.

Since this thread also had a Mustang in the title, the Mustang is running great. The new 3.73 gears changed the cars attitude while accelerating. Getting a Driveshaft Shop 3.5" shaft to put into my wife's 8.8" rear end, then the long saving up for a Procharger kit. Thankfully hers can be dyno tuned.
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:40 PM   #418
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3.5" shaft to put into my wife's 8.8" rear end
This phrasing is a tad awkward... May want to rephrase. Just sayin'.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:08 PM   #419
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This phrasing is a tad awkward... May want to rephrase. Just sayin'.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:08 PM   #420
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This phrasing is a tad awkward... May want to rephrase. Just sayin'.
It was on purpose, you should see my facebook page. At the track I will post things like "At the track getting ready to spank my wife... then we are going to race."
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:51 PM   #421
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I get the rpm dip all the time...as long as I am around 1k it jumps back and forth like a trampoline. Mine is an auto so it hasnt stalled but it sure as hell feels like it. I contacted IPF but havent gotten a response and Im guessing it might have went to spam as well. Hope you get everything fixed man! Mine runs great except I think it is running at about half the power its possible of. Trying to find a gauge pillar to get an eye on everything.
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:05 PM   #422
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Does your car ever dip in RPM's while coming to a stop from 45+ mph at around 30 mph? Mine has only stalled once in the past week but every day after the car has warmed up the engine will dip in RPM's around 30 mph when coming to a stop and the smell of fuel is very strong. I have a theory about why its doing it but will take time to test it.

Do you know what tune you are running? The current tune I have has near 0% LTFT's. The one prior to that was +25% LTFT's and causing massive problems with WOT runs from being too rich.
Sorry so slow to respond (I hate how work gets in the way of important stuff!).
Since mine's a stick shift, at 45mph I'm usually cruising in 4th (3.73 gears). So when I brake, I just stay in that gear with clutch engaged (no downshifting to aid in slowing- gears and clutches more $ than brake pads) until my RPM are down to 1200-1,000. Then push in the clutch and brake to a stop.

Driving that way RPM's just drop on down to about 700 and remain there nice and steady at idle.

If it's a more sudden need to stop- it's clutch in and hard on the brakes with engine RPM dropping steadily to 700.

I don't remember specifically what my tune was called. We went thru several last minute variations trying to get the speedo reading correct for my gears.

I did just break down and buy a tuning module- haven't had a chance to play with it yet, but when I figure out which tune I've got I'll be sure to let you know.
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:00 AM   #423
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Hey magnum, have you installed your CC yet? … Want to make sure its okay to pull the intake manifold "plug" out and connect it to the CC to breathe better. I also found a temporary spot for the CC bc I wasn't sure where else to put it.

Put mine on the Bolt, on the left of the IM where it holds the crankcase tube in place.
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Old 12-22-2013, 07:47 AM   #424
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make sure you have a check valve to prevent boost back pressure.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:43 AM   #425
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Hey magnum, have you installed your CC yet? … Want to make sure its okay to pull the intake manifold "plug" out and connect it to the CC to breathe better. I also found a temporary spot for the CC bc I wasn't sure where else to put it.

Put mine on the Bolt, on the left of the IM where it holds the crankcase tube in place.
Nope, FedEx had my package near Dallas, TX which is a few hours away, now nothing. Was supposed to get here Thursday, got pushed to Friday, now no estimate at all. Requested a trace be put on the package after I heard the BS of how they are handling high shipping volume. Its like Christmas just snuck up on the managers of FedEx, its an elusive holiday that nobody knows is coming until its here.

I pulled the plug out, used the original thingy that went into the hole, and put the bar that held the plug in over the thingy to prevent it from blowing out. Definitely need a check valve though or bad things will happen.
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