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Old 09-09-2013, 08:26 PM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
They came gapped at 0.031 and I didn't touch them, didn't want to damage the iridium tip. Still waiting on my ported intake, but I need to get this stalling issue fixed, think its a TCM problem.
Other IPF SC owners have had stalling issues before....for some reason it seems like a common deal, but in every case they have been able to correct it with tune updates. Hopefully yours won't be an exception.

So close to perfection!
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:40 PM   #308
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^ still on my stock plugs/gap and initial Sc tune and runs great. Cant wait for you to get your Ported manifold back
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #309
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I sent this e-mail to Arno, waiting for a response right now:

Quote:
Sir, I need massive help now, the car is constantly stalling while coming to a stop in drive, but if I shift it into neutral it is fine. When the car starts to dip the RPM's low the AFR goes all the way to 10:1. I noticed it mostly happens when my LTFT's are near 0% and that usually happens when I'm cruising at 1500 rpm's. At idle and 2000+ rpm's my LTFT's are around -10% and the car does not stall when coming to a stop, but will still dip in RPM's. I will be switching to the tune that gave me problems at 5k+ RPM's because right now the car is undrivable with it acting this way.

This is from my observation of the AFR gauge, but something is wrong with the fuel map for 1500 RPM range.
After Idling (LTFT's at -10%):
1000 - 14.7:1
1500 - 13.5:1 (can be between 13 and 14)
2000 - 14.5:1
2500 - 14.7:1

After Cruising at 1500 RPM's (LTFT's at 0%):
1000 - 15:1 (over 15)
1500 - 14:7
2000 - 15:1

There will also be various misfires, but none severe.

Outside of this problem, the upper RPM is great, plenty of power, but its this stalling while stopping that is killing me.


This has got to be solved, died twice today and this time it was while I was turning into my subdivision. Trying to avoid a huge brick sign with no power steering is not fun.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:45 PM   #310
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
They came gapped at 0.031 and I didn't touch them, didn't want to damage the iridium tip. Still waiting on my ported intake, but I need to get this stalling issue fixed, think its a TCM problem.
Not to be a PIA, but did you check'em?

I was told they come already at .031, but I had to gap mine down. Can't remember how wide they were, but I definitely had to bend mine down some.

Never mind- Just checked Denso's reference chart. Gap for the 22's is 0.8mm (0.031-32). Maybe I need to invest in a new gap measurer!
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Last edited by Ventmaster; 09-12-2013 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:51 PM   #311
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Not to be a PIA, but did you check'em?

I was told they come already at .031, but I had to gap mine down. Can't remember how wide they were, but I definitely had to bend mine down some.
Yeah, I checked, just had to be careful not to hit the tips.

Arno also e-mailed me yesterday saying he was going to work on a new tune to fix the stalling issue.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:13 PM   #312
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Also according to Denso:

Do not adjust the spark plug gap.
Use of a spark plug cleaner for short periods is acceptable if low pressure is used.
IRIDIUM POWER spark plugs use 0.4 mm iridium center electrode and the spark gap is already set at the optimum distance.
If the electrode is damaged by gap adjustment or cleaning, the spark plugs will not perform to their best.

However, NGK has this to say about it:

Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs?

A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

According to that Arno would be right on the money with 0.031 for a SC'd 3.6L with stock ignition.

**In addition-
Q: What is the maximum I can open or close the gap?
A: NGK doesn't recommend adjusting the spark plug gap < or > .008". The reason for this is the ground electrode and center electrode won't line up properly, hindering spark plug performance.
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Last edited by Ventmaster; 09-12-2013 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Additional info...
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #313
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Yeah, I checked, just had to be careful not to hit the tips.

Arno also e-mailed me yesterday saying he was going to work on a new tune to fix the stalling issue.
Great, I'm sure he can fix it!

I'm really hoping to get my IM/plugs in this week. The ol'lady had to have surgery this week! Man there's always sumthin getting in the way of the important things, huh?
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #314
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Good luck with her surgery.

I went with Denso because they were pregapped, I probably destroyed the Autolites I had from gapping them. Car pulls hard with the Denso, if I can get the 1500 RPM leaner to fix the LTFT my car will be set.

I also looked at my catch can last night, its about 1/3rd full, so its working. I have mine setup differently than the instructions though.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #315
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I drain mine once a month, mostly water.
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:57 PM   #316
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Still no updated tune for my car, and I just did a WOT from 2nd gear and the car runs a 10:1 AFR from 1500 until 5500 RPM, then goes to 12:1 AFR, then dips to 11.8:1 AFR at around 5800 RPM. The car us running way too rich and its causing the stalling issues when I'm coming to a stop. I also found out that the car will add fuel from a positive LTFT, but not remove fuel from a negative LTFT at WOT.
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:01 PM   #317
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30 minutes after I posted he replied to my e-mail with a new tune, my AFR is now 12:1 till 5000, drips to 11:1 when boost starts, then 11.8:1 at boost. Car feels good, but it still tries to stall while coming to a stop. Going to see how this tune does next week driving to and from work.
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:15 PM   #318
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Sounds like its getting pretty close...between 11.5 and 12 under WOT is ideal I believe.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:12 PM   #319
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Yeah, just this stalling issue is the problem. I am taking apart the boost recirculation valve to check for a vacuum leak, been reading on other forums this could be the issue. The 90 degree elbow that screws into the tube may be an issue, I put Teflon tape on the threads, see if that helps. Will get this fixed, just will take time.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:34 PM   #320
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Lucky break, my supercharger oil drain line had worked itself loose from where I had it and was up against my A/C line. No break in the line but it started digging into it. Good thing I decided to check stuff today.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:33 PM   #321
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Teflon tape is a lubricate not good for sealant
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:34 AM   #322
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Quote:
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Lucky break, my supercharger oil drain line had worked itself loose from where I had it and was up against my A/C line. No break in the line but it started digging into it. Good thing I decided to check stuff today.
Good catch. It's not a cheap repair.

John B.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:33 AM   #323
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Do y'all's drains line have the protective rubber hose around it?..
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