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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 07-17-2013, 11:13 PM   #1
Subzero
 
Drives: Black 2012 2SS/RS Convertible
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MN
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Barton Shifter Noise

Hey all!

I recently finished installing a barton short shifter for my '12 2SS/RS Convertible. Rowing the gears is buttery smooth and the shifter is quite firm, however there is quite a bit of noise translated from the transmission - enough to hear with the top down. Under hard acceleration it rattles like crazy when I'm not holding it, but after I hold it, it sounds like two smooth stones rubbing together very loudly. The rattling only happens during acceleration - the stone sound happens during 2k+ RPMs while parked. I notice the stone sound gets much more pronounced when it's in gear and the shifter is held to the left or right (very lightly).

So far I've tried screwing the flat shaft + ball down as far as they can go and re-tightening everything up. But it still rattles and the stone grinding sound is still there.

Has anyone encountered this? I really don't want to get another shifter - I returned the hurst due to similar issues.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:10 AM   #2
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I dont have a barton but I have the Hurst in my car. Their performance shifters and will natirally translate more noise then a stock shifter. So much that the hirst shifter comes with some dyno mat like material you can apply to quiet it but it hinders some of the performance aspects. I cant hear the noise in your car personally but I can say mine can me noisy too. Its the nature of the beast.

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Old 07-19-2013, 06:55 AM   #3
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Just had this problem when I helped a buddy install a barton shifter. Get some dynamat or equivalent and put some on the bottom of the shifter under the car where the shifter connects to the fork of the transmission, under the black rub boot. Here is a picture of where to put the dynamat from left to right covering both ends. I put a red line to show where you need to cover with the dynamat.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:59 AM   #4
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If you want to make it dead silent add some teflon tap to the threads of the shifter then put which ever stick you are using back on. Here is a picture of the threads i am speaking of
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:51 PM   #5
Gforce8
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Drives: Yellow 1SS/RS
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I have the same problem and I'm actually thinking about selling it and putting the OEM one back in. I love the feel but hate the noise.
I tried teflon tape and various other things on the upper thread, never on the lower. Do you really think his will help?
If you try it subzero, let me know!!
Thanks
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Mods:
Knighlight, Eibach sways and 1"dropsprings, usb PDIM and steering buttons from 2SS,
footwelllights, fogs AAC PW13 with jumper, Trak+ widetrack spacers,
1-4 eliminator, Pedders bushings, subthumb+10" sub with amp, flowmaster axleback and CAI, Barton short shifter, BMR trailing arms, stainless steel brake lines.
Also:
blue metallic painted stripes and yellow interior.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:35 AM   #6
Subzero
 
Drives: Black 2012 2SS/RS Convertible
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When I tightened everything up the first time, I wrapped both the shifter knob screw as well as the shift lever screw with teflon tape. It was just as if I didn't do anything at all to it. The noise is still there, but after a week of driving it seems to have subsided a tad. I still get the rattle under acceleration but the grinding sound seems to have been reduced; though I'm not sure if that's because of the cool-down we've had recently (it was 95 -100F for a couple days). Apparently a weighted aluminum shift knob is the way to go to get rid of the rattle. Weigh your stock shift knob - it's pretty heavy. I'll give it another week or two before I go with MGW.

BTW, how has the dynamat mod worked for noise reduction? Is most of it gone?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:17 AM   #7
c_LoW29


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gforce8 View Post
I have the same problem and I'm actually thinking about selling it and putting the OEM one back in. I love the feel but hate the noise.
I tried teflon tape and various other things on the upper thread, never on the lower. Do you really think his will help?
If you try it subzero, let me know!!
Thanks
Put a piece of dynamat on the bottom of the shifter in picture one I promise you it will help. Make sure it's long enough to cover both ends of the locking pin that goes through the shifter
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:06 AM   #8
Subzero
 
Drives: Black 2012 2SS/RS Convertible
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After all of that, I ended up swapping the barton out for the MGW. A complete night and day difference. The MGW is quite a bit heavier, thus no rattling at all. The 10% throw increase made shifting easier - you don't force gears anymore. It also has built in side to side spring tension so it returns to neutral much quicker. All in all, I'm much much happier.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:41 PM   #9
Gforce8
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Drives: Yellow 1SS/RS
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Great to hear. I will try the MGW or MTI racing they seem to have the rubber vibration isolator bushing inside the shifter rod itself like OEM part.
A piece of dynamat is not a fix I think.
Thanks!!
__________________

Mods:
Knighlight, Eibach sways and 1"dropsprings, usb PDIM and steering buttons from 2SS,
footwelllights, fogs AAC PW13 with jumper, Trak+ widetrack spacers,
1-4 eliminator, Pedders bushings, subthumb+10" sub with amp, flowmaster axleback and CAI, Barton short shifter, BMR trailing arms, stainless steel brake lines.
Also:
blue metallic painted stripes and yellow interior.
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