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Old 07-26-2013, 07:20 PM   #26
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He got it 140* after putting it in 4th, blocking the wheels with the PB on. 5' bar and a lot of cussin'.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:35 PM   #27
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Don't use an impact on TTY bolts...bad, bad, bad.

I used my jack handle as a cheater bar. 140* no problem.
So....what bad things should I look for? I hate living on the edge. Should I remove the bolt and replace with new?
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:12 PM   #28
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So....what bad things should I look for? I hate living on the edge. Should I remove the bolt and replace with new?
For the cheap price of the bolt, it would be a good idea to replace it.

Since the balancers aren't keyed to the crank, there is a very real potential for the bolt to come loose if not properly torqued. Use red Loctite on the threads when you go back in.
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:13 PM   #29
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For the cheap price of the bolt, it would be a good idea to replace it.

Since the balancers aren't keyed to the crank, there is a very real potential for the bolt to come loose if not properly torqued. Use red Loctite on the threads when you go back in.
You're saying that turning it 140 degrees with an impact wrench is somehow substandard to turning it 140 degrees with elbow power?
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:04 PM   #30
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I hit mine in with an impact too after not being able to get it near 140*. It's been fine but I did purchase an ARP bolt and the tool to lock the flywheel. Haven't got around to installing it yet though.
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:54 AM   #31
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You're saying that turning it 140 degrees with an impact wrench is somehow substandard to turning it 140 degrees with elbow power?
Only thing I can fathom is the harsh ratcheting of the impact could crack or damage the bolt compared to a hand tightening. I doubt it makes a difference though. Need a metallurgist. lol.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:30 AM   #32
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You're saying that turning it 140 degrees with an impact wrench is somehow substandard to turning it 140 degrees with elbow power?
Of course it is. When you take a hammer to metal, what happens? The factory bolts are torque to yield. An impact disproportionately stretches them. That can result in it coming loose, or breaking at some point. Good luck with that. You can rattle them off if you want to, but always install them by hand. ARP bolts are a different story.

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Old 08-01-2013, 11:17 AM   #33
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Got mine to 140 with a 4 foot snipe and the help of a 215 pound hockey player.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:01 PM   #34
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Of course it is. When you take a hammer to metal, what happens? The factory bolts are torque to yield. An impact disproportionately stretches them. That can result in it coming loose, or breaking at some point. Good luck with that. You can rattle them off if you want to, but always install them by hand. ARP bolts are a different story.

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Mine's been running for several years and thousands of miles done with an impact wrench. I think I'll continue to take my chances. Maybe I'm just lucky
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:55 PM   #35
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Shit, I'd be worried the bolt would snap off trying to get the 140* versus "as tight as I can get it" and if it does, you'd be replacing a crank and a fender for sure. I wouldn't lose any sleep over a pinned crank and as tight as hell!
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:28 PM   #36
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Don't use Impact guns to tighten the Crank Bolt.....Take a peek at the mating surface of the Crank Bolt - See that red stuff there? Now look at a used version of same bolt - notice the difference? Using a Impact Gun will not allow that mating surface to do what its designed to do. Not to mention that you can jack up those crank threads. Also, get the Flywheel locking tool and use a 4-5' Pipe to give you more leverage.
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