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Forced Induction - V8 V8 Supercharger, turbo, nitrous discussions

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Old 08-15-2013, 03:17 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by SRT10KLLR View Post
Probably not the correct ones for nitrous but like SS said he doesn't want a spark plug debate.

Search VP C16 vs Shell URT Advanced and see what others say. I personally have not compared the two back to back so I couldn't tell you. I use C16 in the dedicated nitrous cell and will be switching to URT-A but that is only a small portion of th hp the car makes.

What I do know is it is the highest octane unleaded currently available in all 50.
Agree with all of this.
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:22 PM   #77
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With a big gulp of nitrous, and all this damage, was there any knock retard on the datalog?

You do need the window switch to cut off the spray before the stock rev limiter closes the throttle blades. I didn't know the stock limiter did that. I have a LNC 2000 rev limiter set prior to just before the stock limiter. I hope it eliminates this ever happening to me!
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:55 PM   #78
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With a big gulp of nitrous, and all this damage, was there any knock retard on the datalog?

You do need the window switch to cut off the spray before the stock rev limiter closes the throttle blades. I didn't know the stock limiter did that. I have a LNC 2000 rev limiter set prior to just before the stock limiter. I hope it eliminates this ever happening to me!


Zero knock. My car has never had any.
Msd window switch
Autometer tach adapter.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:32 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by jrpxxii View Post
I have run both and compared them and they are nearly identical. I am running c16 cause the shell urt is harder to get in my area. It's great if u want to stay unleaded
Thanks, that's exactly the feedback we need.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:47 AM   #80
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I was running the pfadt drag specific stuff. We popped that off to try the pedders super car coil overs. Farks is helping me with their notes and what not in setting up my car.
If you need some ideas on your rear setup ill be glad to help you out,good luck with the new bigger and better build
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:54 PM   #81
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Zero knock. My car has never had any.
Msd window switch
Autometer tach adapter.
Surprised the knock sensor didn't hear anything amidst all that carnage.
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:31 PM   #82
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in reality, that all happened so quickly no knock sensor or window switch in the world would have made a difference.
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:23 PM   #83
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in reality, that all happened so quickly no knock sensor or window switch in the world would have made a difference.
Agreed this stuff happens in Milliseconds.
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:53 PM   #84
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Don't take this the wrong way but everyone seems to be blaming the nitrous for the problem, but how it was used was the problem. Just don't want anyone thinking that nitrous is un safe or will cause the same problems. As a power adder dollar for dollar it can't be beat.
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Nitrous did the damage but wasn't what started it. The excessive wheel spin did. That put everything in motion. Then the TB closed. Then the nitrous packed up, then the TB re-opened, then a shitload of nitrous entered the first low pressure area it found and melted the piston.

I have no problem with nitrous. I'll be spraying a buck twentyfive next time out. This time I'll have a whole new suspension under the car as well in hopes to eliminate the awful spinning.

Shit happens. All you can do is fix it and keep going.
I think what he is saying is that if your window switch and nitrous were properly set up to begin with then this would not have happened.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:46 PM   #85
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So can't just bore out the block a bit and run a set of pistons?

I don't like the dual adder stuff, why not go to a YSI or Novi 1500.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:52 PM   #86
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So can't just bore out the block a bit and run a set of pistons?

I don't like the dual adder stuff, why not go to a YSI or Novi 1500.
Hey, stop spending my money John!!!

Yeah, the block is fine. Could be sleeved or bored a tick. I don't want any more cubes. I don't want a different blower. If I did I would have teds built 416 in the car and I would be on the track tomorrow with the GN. Without sounding arrogant, my combination is gold. It's produced results. When its together it will really lay down some times. I know what works with my car. I'd rather not start over.

Everything but 2 pistons are fine. The rods are perfect and so is the crank. Just that one sleeve has a little mark. But we might as well put some even better parts in it while its apart.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:54 PM   #87
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I think what he is saying is that if your window switch and nitrous were properly set up to begin with then this would not have happened.
Nitrous is set up fine. Accidents can and will happen. That's part of going fast. Fix it and move on. That's all that needs to be done.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:11 AM   #88
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Nitrous is set up fine. Accidents can and will happen. That's part of going fast. Fix it and move on. That's all that needs to be done.
you traumatized me with your carnage photo's. I now fear nitrous.

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Old 08-17-2013, 02:44 AM   #89
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I think what he is saying is that if your window switch and nitrous were properly set up to begin with then this would not have happened.
Then he would be incorrect.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:32 AM   #90
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you traumatized me with your carnage photo's. I now fear nitrous.


Nah. Gotta get back on that horse. Minor setback. Few weeks and it'll be back on the road/track.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #91
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The only thing I see wrong here is you didn't stagger the ring gaps

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Old 08-17-2013, 09:36 AM   #92
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:09 AM   #93
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u running the msd digital window or msd pill style window switch? i tried both and the pill style seems to be more accurate then the digital. but i ended up just going with a nos launcher. its fairly nice setup. but if i had it to do over the lnc progressive controller is where its at i think. but ya window switches dont always catch stuff like that. but at least u know what can happen in a blink of a eye. if u got the extra cash try the lnc its about 600 bucks but well worth it. great controller. if u dont want to spend that spend 400 on the nos launcher. its got tons of safety features. like manifold pressure , a/f low and high. rpm, and a few other lil things. that would be ideal for a car like urs.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:32 AM   #94
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The only thing I see wrong here is you didn't stagger the ring gaps

he should have used gapless rings, lol
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:35 AM   #95
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Yeah cool, If it was me I'd just go a little over and reuse the block or just another stock bare block if it's important to stay stock cubes.

What plugs do you run, what heat range?
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:02 PM   #96
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Yeah cool, If it was me I'd just go a little over and reuse the block or just another stock bare block if it's important to stay stock cubes.

What plugs do you run, what heat range?
I think he said earlier he's getting a new stock cubes GM LS3 block. If Ted made the decision, then he's likely running the LS9 AC Delco plugs.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:07 PM   #97
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I would run colder plugs than that.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #98
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He might be too. I'm just speculating on the plugs. I just know jannetty isn't an ngk fan .
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:21 PM   #99
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Those are ZR1 plugs, those are tge plug of choice for Ted.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:22 PM   #100
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SSS are you running a micro-switch or Electronic TPS.

Two things should have prevented this.

1. Window switch should have shut off the nitrous well before the car hit the rev limiter.

2. Your WOT activation switch should have shut off the nitrous when the PCM closed the TB

If you are using a micro switch that goes on the foot pedal then you were WOT(pedal to the floor) even thought the actual TB might have been closed by the PCM.
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