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Old 08-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #101
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I would run colder plugs than that.
Without a doubt
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:48 PM   #102
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I'm no plug expert, but if he's not detonating or having plug related issues... Why go colder?
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:17 PM   #103
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Just because u don't see knock on the log doesn't mean it's not occurring. Nitrous doesn't like projected tip plug. Let alone having boost and nitrous. A number 6 plug is a great choice for Cammed na setups.
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #104
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Just because u don't see knock on the log doesn't mean it's not occurring. Nitrous doesn't like projected tip plug. Let alone having boost and nitrous. A number 6 plug is a great choice for Cammed na setups.
That makes sense. Thanks for the input.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:05 PM   #105
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u running the msd digital window or msd pill style window switch? i tried both and the pill style seems to be more accurate then the digital. but i ended up just going with a nos launcher. its fairly nice setup. but if i had it to do over the lnc progressive controller is where its at i think. but ya window switches dont always catch stuff like that. but at least u know what can happen in a blink of a eye. if u got the extra cash try the lnc its about 600 bucks but well worth it. great controller. if u dont want to spend that spend 400 on the nos launcher. its got tons of safety features. like manifold pressure , a/f low and high. rpm, and a few other lil things. that would be ideal for a car like urs.
I would just use the NOS mini as it's only $250 and has a lot of the same features.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:44 PM   #106
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Need non projected tip plugs if using any nitrous.

Need at least 1 step colder than stock for boost AND one step colder for the spray. At least.

Need a controller, or at least a rev limiter that will shut down the spark without shutting the throttle blades. That way the spray will go out the exhaust for the engine cycles that aren't firing, rather than stack up in the air intake tract.

Need an AFR much richer than when using boost alone, as shown on the wideband.

I've mentioned these things on this forum in some previous threads but I always get shot down, then when carnage happens everyone blames the spray and gets afraid of it.

Glad to see Jaime isn't afraid to use it again.

With these things I mentioned alot of nitrous problems wouldn't happen. May or may not have saved this engine, that could be debated forever without an answer. Just Don't be afraid of nitrous, do the things I listed, retard the timing and make sure the fuel supply is plenty and all will be good.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:43 PM   #107
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On nitrous and boost, a wideband is ok for getting in the ballpark, but I final tune off plug reading for fuel and timing.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:33 PM   #108
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I wouldn't go two steps colder, not really needed. Jamie drives his car, he wouldn't want all the drivability issues of two step colder plugs.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:35 PM   #109
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I daily on BR7ef's, its really not bad. Id rather run a safer plug and it be more cold natured, than having a good daily driving plug and melt stuff.

Or, run around on a number 6 plug and swap to 7's at the track.

My motor makes the same power on motor with the 7's as it it did with #6 plugs. And they are gapped at .025
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:46 PM   #110
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I ran 7s before I went to the #6 ZR1s, I hated driving the car before I made the switch, terrible to drive in town in traffic. But I agree with the possibility of swapping at the track, that would be a good solution.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:56 PM   #111
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Spark plugs had NOTHING to do with what happened. Wouldn't have mattered if the plugs I was using were made by GOD. The two melted plugs had no chance.


The plugs that I have been using have been good. And I have been using them since day 1. Even the plugs on the other 6 cylinders looked very good after this incident.

I pull a plug after every pass. Not only do I inspect it I send multiple photos to Ted along with the log and wait to hear back before I make another pass. I know that know one else is taking this to that level. That's why my car has been able the way it is for 4 years.

Like I said, a few times now...if you race the car as much as I do there will come a point where the shit hits the fan, and it did. Unlike a lot of people my car is an open book, I'm not cutting weight or running on the ragged edge to post a number. Everyone knows what the deal is inside and out.

I'll continue to run whatever Ted puts in the car, why, because it has worked all along and there is no denying that.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:59 PM   #112
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Yeah cool, If it was me I'd just go a little over and reuse the block or just another stock bare block if it's important to stay stock cubes.

What plugs do you run, what heat range?

By the time you add up all the machining costs and down time it actually make more sense to just buy a brand new GM LS3 block. They aren't that much money. Plus at this point, I'm way past worrying about a few extra nickels.

I think I'm going to send my block to ERL to have them redo it.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #113
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I drove on 7,8, and 9's with no issues. The right tuner can take care of it. Non projected tip plugs are the way to go for boost and nitrous.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:16 PM   #114
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I drove on 7,8, and 9's with no issues. The right tuner can take care of it. Non projected tip plugs are the way to go for boost and nitrous.
Agreed.

I am running on B8EFS's right now without issue. Hell I went to the titty bar last night then sprayed on the way home, lol. What did I spray


I golf and pros and friends always tell me how I am not swinging correctly and yada yada yada. But, I don't care if I am doing it wrong cause that is how I will continue to swing my club it feels natural to me.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:47 AM   #115
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I drove on 7,8, and 9's with no issues. The right tuner can take care of it. Non projected tip plugs are the way to go for boost and nitrous.
I will start researching this. I'd like to learn for myself all the do's and dont's for plugs.

There's always a good, better, best for everything.

I had the TR6's in an ls2 spraying 200 and it drove like stock around town. I'd agree that it can be done.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:50 AM   #116
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Agreed.

I am running on B8EFS's right now without issue. Hell I went to the titty bar last night then sprayed on the way home, lol. What did I spray


I golf and pros and friends always tell me how I am not swinging correctly and yada yada yada. But, I don't care if I am doing it wrong cause that is how I will continue to swing my club it feels natural to me.

So Jim Furyks swing is the conventional golf swing? Id expect a little better from you. There is more than one way to go about things. You are aware of this, correct?

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Old 08-18-2013, 12:29 PM   #117
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I drove on 7,8, and 9's with no issues. The right tuner can take care of it. Non projected tip plugs are the way to go for boost and nitrous.
I am running 9 and check plugs after every pass as well as this is the only true way to read each cylinder and adjust accordingly
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:31 PM   #118
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Agree 100%
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:50 AM   #119
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It is Pretty funny to me how everyone is SO hung up on the plugs as being the the problem or would have prevented the Problem but that is not the case at all.

When a cylinder leans out this bad there is no spark plug in the world that would have prevented this.

What all of you are not taking in to consideration is that once a fire starts your not going to put it out even if you take the spark away completely.

The combustion process at these lean of a mixture Don't need spark to continue to ignite and burn.

Did any of you see the piston, and actually Read it, The plug was the least of the damage, it survived quite well considering the blow torch that was running down the side of the piston.

I have prevented the Throttle from closing as part of Rev limiter function so this will not happen again.

We are also adding a window switch, which traditionally we never use on such a small Kit.

I got this guys.

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Old 08-19-2013, 07:53 AM   #120
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It does look like then when the car hit the limiter hard, the tb closed and forced the nitrous to pack up in the intake tube. When the tb opened back up all the nitrous ran in and was dumped in the first two cylinders it found.
Sounds like you need to go to a direct port nitrous setup!!!...spray in after the throttle plate AND spray a LOT MORE
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:06 PM   #121
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It is Pretty funny to me how everyone is SO hung up on the plugs as being the the problem or would have prevented the Problem but that is not the case at all.

When a cylinder leans out this bad there is no spark plug in the world that would have prevented this.

What all of you are not taking in to consideration is that once a fire starts your not going to put it out even if you take the spark away completely.

The combustion process at these lean of a mixture Don't need spark to continue to ignite and burn.

Did any of you see the piston, and actually Read it, The plug was the least of the damage, it survived quite well considering the blow torch that was running down the side of the piston.

I have prevented the Throttle from closing as part of Rev limiter function so this will not happen again.

We are also adding a window switch, which traditionally we never use on such a small Kit.

I got this guys.

Ted.
I don't think anyone believes the spark plugs caused the engine failure just that it would be a good idea to switch them. As you said you could have been running B9EFS's and it still would have blown.

What caused the problem was probably not using/having a window switch and/or WOT switch. Both of which would have deactivated the nitrous when the car closed the TB after it bounced off the rev limiter.
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:12 PM   #122
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I don't think anyone believes the spark plugs caused the engine failure just that it would be a good idea to switch them. As you said you could have been running B9EFS's and it still would have blown.

What caused the problem was probably not using/having a window switch and/or WOT switch. Both of which would have deactivated the nitrous when the car closed the TB after it bounced off the rev limiter.
Or not allowing the Throttle to shut as part of the rev limit function.

When we are going this fast We all learn stuff every pass.

Hind Site is Always 20/20

We just need a Crystal Ball to Predict the Future.

Ted.
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:19 PM   #123
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Or not allowing the Throttle to shut as part of the rev limit function.

When we are going this fast We all learn stuff every pass.

Hind Site is Always 20/20

We just need a Crystal Ball to Predict the Future.

Ted.
Agreed. Yeh, that too. If the TB had not closed the N2O would not have puddled. I would still use both the electronic WOT and window switches just to be even more safe. TAPS & window switches can be had for like $100 so why not get them.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:58 PM   #124
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I have 2 Crystal Balls but one is always in the shop and the other on is never working right I just can't figure it out!!!!!

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Or not allowing the Throttle to shut as part of the rev limit function.

When we are going this fast We all learn stuff every pass.

Hind Site is Always 20/20

We just need a Crystal Ball to Predict the Future.

Ted.
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:33 PM   #125
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Hopefully the wheel spin is cured and its business as usual. If it is the car should fly.
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