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Old 08-30-2013, 05:24 PM   #26
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I just went out and took a pic.This is mine after only probably 50 miles,and easy driving.I changed right after i got done with my track day at Fontana.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:26 PM   #27
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After about 1000 miles
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:28 PM   #28
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I have this mod, but have not installed it yet. Not sure how clutch dust can get in the fluid. Discoloration from heat over time maybe? I bought this mod because if you hot lap your LS3 at the drag strip you can experience the clutch sticking to the floor. Some have claimed this mod will resolve that problem.

I did experience this a couple of times in my '11 SS. But not yet on the 1LE, even though last night I must have made 20 runs. My 1LE has only has 2,000 miles on it, my '11 SS had 24,000 including a very lengthy track day. So it could be that this effect happens as the fluid ages under heavy use. So if this mod makes is easier to change the clutch fluid then it is worth while. Of course heavy use of the brakes would add the same requirement for the brake fluid.

I think if you do not track your 1LE at all, the mod may be just for peace of mind. If you do, at least it makes changing the clutch fluid easier and might give you a little more life out of your brake fluid.

This mod belongs with the Ported TB, the TB Wedge, and the fuse pull. Cheap mods that might do some good, but can't hurt.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:32 PM   #29
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After about 1000 miles
Hi Doug,clean that
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:33 PM   #30
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I have this mod, but have not installed it yet. Not sure how clutch dust can get in the fluid. Discoloration from heat over time maybe? I bought this mod because if you hot lap your LS3 at the drag strip you can experience the clutch sticking to the floor. Some have claimed this mod will resolve that problem.

I did experience this a couple of times in my '11 SS. But not yet on the 1LE, even though last night I must have made 20 runs. My 1LE has only has 2,000 miles on it, my '11 SS had 24,000 including a very lengthy track day. So it could be that this effect happens as the fluid ages under heavy use. So if this mod makes is easier to change the clutch fluid then it is worth while. Of course heavy use of the brakes would add the same requirement for the brake fluid.

I think if you do not track your 1LE at all, the mod may be just for peace of mind. If you do, at least it makes changing the clutch fluid easier and might give you a little more life out of your brake fluid.

This mod belongs with the Ported TB, the TB Wedge, and the fuse pull. Cheap mods that might do some good, but can't hurt.

I had my clutch sticking mid way or on the floor and the dreaded second gear grind. I put in the remote res, tick high flow clutch line and ideal garage master cylinder. I now have no problems at all. I road race my car so I am not easy on it and it has not given me any trouble after these mods.

Not sure if it makes it any easier to bleed the clutch but it does prevent the brake fluid from getting dirty and it will save the brake seals and abs stuff in the long run.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:34 PM   #31
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Hi Doug,clean that
Haha I did Mark! I change it with every oil change. Need to do the tick remote clutch bleeder line now though. It's a PITA to bleed it.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:36 PM   #32
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Is that that thing that can be installed but only after dropping the tranny?
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:38 PM   #33
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Is that that thing that can be installed but only after dropping the tranny?
yup, only reason I haven't done it yet.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:52 PM   #34
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I've been riding sport bikes for 30 years and clutch fluid gets dark on them too, but its from heat, not from dust contamination. I have never changed the fluids on the bikes other than the normal maintenance intervals. I have friends who constantly change theirs as soon as they see it starting to darken. Never had any issues on my bikes with the clutch sticking. I've had Ducati's, KTM's, Aprilias, Honda's and Yamaha's and never had an issue.

From everyone I've talked to and the research I've done, it turns dark from moisture absorption (although this takes a long time) but with the clutch its the more frequent actuation and heat that makes it go dark so quickly. If it was clutch dust you would also be leaking fluid.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #35
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Found a good article on the Corvette forum on how the fluid might be getting fouled with clutch dust

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...-and-cure.html
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:35 PM   #36
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Good pull flyinlow,this is what started the whole issue.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:07 PM   #37
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...my very first 1LE mod. Then the catch can, then...
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:20 PM   #38
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Found a good article on the Corvette forum on how the fluid might be getting fouled with clutch dust

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...-and-cure.html
Yes it's clutch dust, dirt and dust that is causing the issue. A slight amount gets by the seals especially when driven hard. Frequent fluid change is needed to keep the seals in good condition and reduce the amount of dust that gets by for your system to operate properly.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:39 PM   #39
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I change mine every month. Some folks do this every fuel up.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:36 PM   #40
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I had my clutch sticking mid way or on the floor and the dreaded second gear grind. I put in the remote res, tick high flow clutch line and ideal garage master cylinder. I now have no problems at all. I road race my car so I am not easy on it and it has not given me any trouble after these mods.

Not sure if it makes it any easier to bleed the clutch but it does prevent the brake fluid from getting dirty and it will save the brake seals and abs stuff in the long run.

how big of a pain was the master cylinder install
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:04 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHMSC View Post
I had my clutch sticking mid way or on the floor and the dreaded second gear grind. I put in the remote res, tick high flow clutch line and ideal garage master cylinder. I now have no problems at all. I road race my car so I am not easy on it and it has not given me any trouble after these mods.

Not sure if it makes it any easier to bleed the clutch but it does prevent the brake fluid from getting dirty and it will save the brake seals and abs stuff in the long run.
Thanks! I had not found the tick line and the ideal cylinder info before. Good reading. They both look like must do mods for hard driving. And in later yet in later posts another mod for easier clutch bleeding. Might as well do that when I replace the clutch. Will the mods ever end?

The only thing I could find before about the shifting problems was whining and the idea of solving the problem by changing the trans oil with Royal Purple. Is the Royal Purple swap another urban legend? Confession: I have some on my garage shelf.

Besides the clutch not sticking I have not had transmission problems with my 1LE yet other than a missed shift or two. Maybe because I only have 2,000 miles on the 1LE.

And on another shifting topic are all you tracky guys happy with the stock shifter? It feels better that the stock SS or the Hurst, but the throws are long. I have a Barton I took off my '11 still in the box. It's still there because it is a PIA to install without lowering the trans and I am not sure the very nice 1LE shift ball will fit the Barton stock adapter. I should ask him.

Am I jacking the thread?
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:48 AM   #42
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Here you go. 8k miles, virgin fluid. Hard use. No need for mod, IMHO.

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Old 08-31-2013, 04:38 PM   #43
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Wow, that is something.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:21 PM   #44
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how big of a pain was the master cylinder install
Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I thought it was rather easy. Hardest part was bleeding the brakes after the install.


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Here you go. 8k miles, virgin fluid. Hard use. No need for mod, IMHO.

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Either you got lucky and have a car with no problems or you are not driving it hard enough. Mine was pitch black after 8k miles.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:10 AM   #45
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I didn't have to bleed the brakes when I did mine. I just removed enough fluid from the brake reservoir such that when I removed the clutch line it didn't drip. Then I capped the clutch line outlet on the reservoir and restored the fluid. In other words, my brake pressure was constant the whole time.

Why did you have to muck with the brake fluid?
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:19 AM   #46
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Because I replaced the entire master cylinder reservoir and I flushed the whole system with DOT4 fluid.
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:46 AM   #47
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Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. I thought it was rather easy. Hardest part was bleeding the brakes after the install.




Either you got lucky and have a car with no problems or you are not driving it hard enough. Mine was pitch black after 8k miles.
I can assure you that I didn't install a cam, tune and intake so that I could have a cool dyno sheet to hang on the wall. I do drive this car hard, and most of those miles are stoplight to stoplight.

I'm not buying the clutch dust theory. Heat will easily discolor fluid. If I did have the issue myself, I would do my own analysis to pinpoint the cause. The way I see it, if dust could get in, fluid could come out. Nobody ever reports leaks. To further that, there are thousands of M6 cars on the road that don't get any kind of maintenance on the brake fluid, and they're still rocking strong.

I don't run a catch can either (gasp!), and my intake manifold is spotless.

If nothing else, 25 years as a pro tech have taught me that you don't need to chase problems that aren't there. I do realize that some people do see these issues on their car, but I don't. I'll never buy equipment that I don't need.

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Old 09-01-2013, 01:15 PM   #48
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I can assure you that I didn't install a cam, tune and intake so that I could have a cool dyno sheet to hang on the wall. I do drive this car hard, and most of those miles are stoplight to stoplight.

I'm not buying the clutch dust theory. Heat will easily discolor fluid. If I did have the issue myself, I would do my own analysis to pinpoint the cause. The way I see it, if dust could get in, fluid could come out. Nobody ever reports leaks. To further that, there are thousands of M6 cars on the road that don't get any kind of maintenance on the brake fluid, and they're still rocking strong.

I don't run a catch can either (gasp!), and my intake manifold is spotless.

If nothing else, 25 years as a pro tech have taught me that you don't need to chase problems that aren't there. I do realize that some people do see these issues on their car, but I don't. I'll never buy equipment that I don't need.

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Well I am glad you didn't have any problems man. This has been an old ongoing issue, there are several articles regarding this issue on corvettes. Also, if there were no issues there wouldn't be multiple threads on C5 about second gear grind, sticky pedals, etc. If it was just heat then there wouldn't be chunks of stuff in my fluid. I do agree heat can be a factor in discoloration but since I have done this my brake fluid stays clear a lot longer than it use to before and chunky free. If I didn't have a problem I would have left it alone.

After 45 days at two different dealerships over 1 1/2 years with no fix I was either going to trade the car in or find a solution to the problem. What I did fixed my problem and I have had no more issues even on several road courses in 100+ degree temps.
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:22 PM   #49
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Here you go. 8k miles, virgin fluid. Hard use. No need for mod, IMHO.

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Since you kept the original setup, which keep all the fluid in one place, its gonna take longer to contaminate all the brake/clutch fluid than just the clutch reservoir, which is a lot smaller(1/10 smaller I'd say!). Simple logic. BTW yours is getting brown, not good. But you do what you want. You have the right not to believe it..

Youre right about not chasing inexistant problems, but prevention is important too. Many threads about problems with trans and clutch, the problem is real and this is a good start for the fix.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:45 AM   #50
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Since you kept the original setup, which keep all the fluid in one place, its gonna take longer to contaminate all the brake/clutch fluid than just the clutch reservoir, which is a lot smaller(1/10 smaller I'd say!). Simple logic. BTW yours is getting brown, not good. But you do what you want. You have the right not to believe it..

Youre right about not chasing inexistant problems, but prevention is important too. Many threads about problems with trans and clutch, the problem is real and this is a good start for the fix.
I agree with you. The problem is real for some people. My car doesn't have the issue. If one day it does have the floored pedal issue, I will install the Ideal clutch master cylinder, as that appears to be a feasible and logical fix. Until I see it for myself, I will never believe that clutch particulates can work themselves into a place where pressurized liquid lives, yet the liquid doesn't leak out. Never. Ever.

I have cut one of these slave cylinders in half, just to try to validate the concept. I'm no engineer, but I'm a 25-year ASE Master Tech certification holder, and have done my fair share of racing. This concept defies logic.

Consider this: since your clutch is essentially a centrifugal disc, where is dust and particulate going to naturally migrate to? AWAY from the center, where the slave cylinder lives.

I get it, opinions vary. However, I don't take things as a given, especially because "it says so on the internet". My fluid has some discoloration, yes. All brake fluid discolors. It's doing its job. There is absolutely no particulate matter in there, just discoloration from heat.

Again, people can spend their cash where they think they need to. Me, I'd spend $100 to disprove the notion that I "must" buy a $10 chotchkie for my ride. That's just how I roll.
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