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Old 09-17-2013, 03:46 PM   #51
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I had to revisit this thread...
I drive like an old man... well... everything's relative; let's say I drive about 2/3 as hard as I did when I was thirty. I'm an old head who always turns off the nannies... unless it's raining cause "I" wanna drive.

I learned how to drive in a manual... manual EVERYTHING for that matter, and for thirty-five years I've always had a manual. I shift smooth as silk almost 100% of the time and average about 24mpg in my 1LE. I have seen as much as 78mi after a fill-up with the DIC reading 422mi to empty for a 500mi tank full of gas.

You feeling me? I'm easy.
I just checked the Dot 4 in my clutch reservoir after 2000mi and it was FUBARED. A ten minute change and it's crystal again. It is what it is...
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:09 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by flyinlow View Post
I've been riding sport bikes for 30 years and mfluid gets dark on them too, but its from heat, not from dust contamination. I have never changed the fluids on the bikes other than the normal maintenance intervals. I have friends who constantly change theirs as soon as they see it starting to darken. Never had any issues on my bikes with the clutch sticking. I've had Ducati's, KTM's, Aprilias, Honda's and Yamaha's and never had an issue.

From everyone I've talked to and the research I've done, it turns dark from moisture absorption (although this takes a long time) but with the clutch its the more frequent actuation and heat that makes it go dark so quickly. If it was clutch dust you would also be leaking fluid.
I 2nd this opinion, the fluid can change color due to heat and due to moisture. The dust from the friction plate in the clutch assemble does not get into the fluid. Its almost silly to have read that. You might want to check the seal on the cap of your seperate clutch master cylinder, might be letting in a ton of moisture
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:23 AM   #53
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Also if the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor after numerous hot lapping or heavy use, you be wise to think your pushing the clutch hydraulics to the point of component failure. The heat involved to cause the pedal to stick is enough to start breaking down the fluid. Even if you run DOT 4 WITH A BOILING POINT OF 446F. Ton of threads on the 4th gen f body websites with same issues. I have 1100 miles of hard driving and fluid looks just fine. I'd worry about the ph level, some say corrosive protection first before the color. They have special litmus strips used to check the balance and need to change.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:19 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Deebo View Post
I had to revisit this thread...
I drive like an old man... well... everything's relative; let's say I drive about 2/3 as hard as I did when I was thirty. I'm an old head who always turns off the nannies... unless it's raining cause "I" wanna drive.

I learned how to drive in a manual... manual EVERYTHING for that matter, and for thirty-five years I've always had a manual. I shift smooth as silk almost 100% of the time and average about 24mpg in my 1LE. I have seen as much as 78mi after a fill-up with the DIC reading 422mi to empty for a 500mi tank full of gas.

You feeling me? I'm easy.
I just checked the Dot 4 in my clutch reservoir after 2000mi and it was FUBARED. A ten minute change and it's crystal again. It is what it is...
Wow.... 24 MPG!!!

disclaimer...I only have 950 miles so far...The best I have gotten so far is 15.3MPG and that's not driving 10/10 all the time. Maybe after the break in it will get better?
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:48 PM   #55
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It gets better and better. I swear pulling the fuse in the trunk seemed to help... the intake helped a little too...
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:41 PM   #56
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I was wondering, since i replace my fluid after every tank,and go through like 5 fluid changes in the process.I pump the clutch 30 times,before sucking the fluid out.So this is like 150 clutch pumps,will this promote early clutch wear?
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:07 PM   #57
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I was wondering, since i replace my fluid after every tank,and go through like 5 fluid changes in the process.I pump the clutch 30 times,before sucking the fluid out.So this is like 150 clutch pumps,will this promote early clutch wear?
If you pumping the clutch 30x with the motor running, fluid color is the last of your potential problems. I really think its over kill you changing the fluid after every fuel fill up.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:16 PM   #58
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No,the motor isn't running.I used to just change what was in the reservoir,but soon realized that didn't work good enough.The pic is after only 1 tank of easy driving.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:36 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by EarlyApex View Post
Wow.... 24 MPG!!!

disclaimer...I only have 950 miles so far...The best I have gotten so far is 15.3MPG and that's not driving 10/10 all the time. Maybe after the break in it will get better?
Wow indeed. I have 2200 miles on mine now and my best tank was 18mpg. The last 3 tanks have netted me 14.6mpg. Seems like that will be the norm from here on out except for the couple of times a year I will track her.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:44 AM   #60
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This mod is a no brainer...
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:55 PM   #61
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Wow indeed. I have 2200 miles on mine now and my best tank was 18mpg. The last 3 tanks have netted me 14.6mpg. Seems like that will be the norm from here on out except for the couple of times a year I will track her.

My L99 was better. I just live in a rural area I guess... but I already said I was smooth.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:56 PM   #62
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This mod is a no brainer...
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:21 PM   #63
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I did this mod shortly after getting the car @ less than a thousand miles. I flush the fluid every few weeks. It always looks like hell. Kind of like regular brake fluid at 60K+ miles. I'm glad I did the mod.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:35 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by VOGGS-LS3-1LE View Post
If you pumping the clutch 30x with the motor running, fluid color is the last of your potential problems. I really think its over kill you changing the fluid after every fuel fill up.
What's he trying to do kill the planet by quickly depleting it's resources . And I need to do this mod as well as get a new ACT clutch.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:05 AM   #65
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What is the difference between the stage i and stage ii mod?
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:17 AM   #66
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Just ordered mine.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:48 AM   #67
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What is the difference between the stage i and stage ii mod?
Stage 1 has a cap for the nipple on the brake reservoir that fed the clutch. Stage 2 has a new factory reservoir plus the new clutch reservoir.

I bought 1 and immediately wished I had gotten 2. I then acquired a new factory reservoir.

My advice is to get a Stage 2.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:16 AM   #68
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Why did u wish you had gotten the stage 2...:im still not sure what the advantage is....so you just cap the area where the hose goes over to the clutch?
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:56 AM   #69
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Why did u wish you had gotten the stage 2...:im still not sure what the advantage is....so you just cap the area where the hose goes over to the clutch?

I felt the same way myself until I installed it.


The cap that covers the nipple is kind of soft and I couldn't get the supplied clamp to work so ended up using a worm gear clamp. So it ended up not looking too good and didn't instil much confidence.

The factory reservoir just looks and "feels" much better...
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:16 PM   #70
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...supplied clamp sucked. Tried a zip tie and found it weeping a tad in a couple of weeks. Went back with a small hose clamp towards the reservoir. Got to thinking... what if I just took a soldering iron and melted the tit and plugged it up that way(?)
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:21 PM   #71
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...supplied clamp sucked. Tried a zip tie and found it weeping a tad in a couple of weeks. Went back with a small hose clamp towards the reservoir. Got to thinking... what if I just took a soldering iron and melted the tit and plugged it up that way(?)
The supplied clamp is a bit small, but if you use 2 sets of needle nose pliers to open it up beyond what you could with a single pair and then install it, it will provide a very good hold and tight seal. Please let us know if you have any questions.

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Old 09-20-2013, 02:00 PM   #72
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Good time to put racing fluid into your brake lines
+1, bringing a 3800lb car down from 135 to 70mph will cook the dot 3 in about 20 laps.

I need to do this clutch reservoir mod!!
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Old 09-21-2013, 03:40 AM   #73
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I have a 2005 Corvette LS2 and the clutch reservoir ranger method cleanout is a very common thing to do because of the clutch dust issue. I had to replace the clutch master cylinder on my Vette after 18K miles because of it. Since then I have cleaned the fluid quite frequently. For those that don't think this needs to be done, trust me it does. It is a known issue with vettes and camaros.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:20 PM   #74
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:05 PM   #75
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Anyone else have the Tick Stainless Braided Clutch Line mentioned by CHMSC? It sounds like it should be a help with heavy clutch usage. I assume it will work with the clutch remote reservoir.
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