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Old 10-05-2013, 09:36 AM   #76
sengli
 
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Clutch dust under pressure in bell housing blows by the seals in the clutch cylinder, and contaminates the fluid. Seems like I saw a GM study that the air pressure in the bell housing caused by the fly wheel and such rotating at 6500RPM is why the dust gets into the fluid. Did the ranger method on my GTO, and my corvette. That clutch dust is bad for the fluid, and having tied to the brake Reservoir is so wrong.
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:46 PM   #77
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I installed the cheaper kit with the plug last week and took my car to the drag strip Friday night. I was getting more runs than normal. There was a 15-30 minute break between runs. I did have one run where I got some pedal sticking and at one point the track officials wanted me to back off from the staging lights as there was some problem at the end of the track. I had to really muscle the shifter to get it into reverse. Later this reverse problem fixed itself.

I also noticed while giving my engine some cool air, the clutch reservoir had dropped down. When I got home, I saw no fluid leaked out. So I moved it back into place and cranked on the screw. I hope it doesn't move now, I am afraid of stripping the screw.

A question for you guys changing the clutch fluid. Are you draining the whole system or just suctioning out the reservoir? Same question about the brakes too.
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:17 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraxum View Post
I installed the cheaper kit with the plug last week and took my car to the drag strip Friday night. I was getting more runs than normal. There was a 15-30 minute break between runs. I did have one run where I got some pedal sticking and at one point the track officials wanted me to back off from the staging lights as there was some problem at the end of the track. I had to really muscle the shifter to get it into reverse. Later this reverse problem fixed itself.

I also noticed while giving my engine some cool air, the clutch reservoir had dropped down. When I got home, I saw no fluid leaked out. So I moved it back into place and cranked on the screw. I hope it doesn't move now, I am afraid of stripping the screw.

A question for you guys changing the clutch fluid. Are you draining the whole system or just suctioning out the reservoir? Same question about the brakes too.
I use a turkey baster to empty... 30 pumps on the pedal... and then repeat after hard driving. As a matter of routine I just change the fluid once at fill up.

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Old 10-27-2013, 10:03 AM   #79
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Here is the best place to get the reservoir. $25.00 shipped!
http://shop.idealgaragellc.com/GTO-r...ir-kit-003.htm
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:17 AM   #80
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Just got my kit in. Think I will do it this weekend and us a vacuum to change all the fluid in clutch and brake system. Don't know if I will even notice a difference, but I do know it gives me a great excuse to spend some time under the hood this weekend.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #81
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What is the difference between the Stage 1 and Stage 2 MOD?
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:14 PM   #82
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What is the difference between the Stage 1 and Stage 2 MOD?
If you are referring to our kits, the difference is that the stage I comes with a cap to "cap off" the clutch line on your current Brake reservoir, and the stage II comes with a brand new brake reservoir with the factory molded cap still in place.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

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Old 06-18-2015, 10:16 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by strych9 View Post
I agree with you. The problem is real for some people. My car doesn't have the issue. If one day it does have the floored pedal issue, I will install the Ideal clutch master cylinder, as that appears to be a feasible and logical fix. Until I see it for myself, I will never believe that clutch particulates can work themselves into a place where pressurized liquid lives, yet the liquid doesn't leak out. Never. Ever.

I have cut one of these slave cylinders in half, just to try to validate the concept. I'm no engineer, but I'm a 25-year ASE Master Tech certification holder, and have done my fair share of racing. This concept defies logic.

Consider this: since your clutch is essentially a centrifugal disc, where is dust and particulate going to naturally migrate to? AWAY from the center, where the slave cylinder lives.

I get it, opinions vary. However, I don't take things as a given, especially because "it says so on the internet". My fluid has some discoloration, yes. All brake fluid discolors. It's doing its job. There is absolutely no particulate matter in there, just discoloration from heat.

Again, people can spend their cash where they think they need to. Me, I'd spend $100 to disprove the notion that I "must" buy a $10 chotchkie for my ride. That's just how I roll.
Bingo!
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:43 PM   #84
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Ughhhh - Ive been sitting on my kit for a year... this is one of the things I'm worried about before installation. How bad is the weeping?
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:36 PM   #85
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The quick and permanent solution is to just go to the dealer and get a replacement reservoir from JDP or your dealer. It's basically the stage 2 kit.

When I got my kit I initially had the cap and just didn't like the look so I got a new reservoir from the dealer, they automatically overnight it if they don't have it in stock.
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:54 PM   #86
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So the master without the capped outlet, would be a master reservoir for a car with a automatic trans then?
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:24 PM   #87
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So the master without the capped outlet, would be a master reservoir for a car with a automatic trans then?
Yes, the stem is still there but it is basically plastic welded/crimped shut.
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:51 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
The quick and permanent solution is to just go to the dealer and get a replacement reservoir from JDP or your dealer. It's basically the stage 2 kit.

When I got my kit I initially had the cap and just didn't like the look so I got a new reservoir from the dealer, they automatically overnight it if they don't have it in stock.
How much did the dealer charge for it?
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:55 PM   #89
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It's been a while, I remember less than $50, maybe $35. I might have mentioned it in my build thread, check my signature.
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:18 PM   #90
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Automatic reservoir p/n is 22956543 and lists for $42.65. You get new O-rings and cap for that.

If your dealer gives you a discount, you get it for less than that.

Saw them for around $33 and change on ebay.
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:55 AM   #91
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I have never attempted to swap out such an item. How easy is it to swap out that reservoir? I assume its held in by o rings, so just pry it out and replace?
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #92
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I have never attempted to swap out such an item. How easy is it to swap out that reservoir? I assume its held in by o rings, so just pry it out and replace?
IIRC, pull a screw and pry it off. Drain fluid first obviously. Press in the new one add fluid.

Put some rags around to protect the paint from some spillage...
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:39 AM   #93
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Just found out my reservoir is leaking, would taking it in for warranty work even be worth it? Car is stock, 23k miles, and CPO.
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