09-03-2013, 03:26 PM | #1 |
chevy pride
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suspension questions
do these cars do better with softer or harder settings in the rear. like vs factory . do u all usally go softer on the rear end or what. would like to know what these cars like before i start messing around.
drag racing . dont mind nothing else just straight line .
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09-03-2013, 04:58 PM | #2 | |
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II 13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800 |
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09-03-2013, 07:37 PM | #3 |
chevy pride
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neither atm , kinda why im asking.
good info john. i not use to how cars work. but i raced motocross and did alot of suspension tuning and thats a awesome read. but do these cars typically like stiffer settings in the rear or softer. like say my shock are stock. when i go to put new ones in that are adjustable will i want it to be stiffer then stock or softer in the rear. for drag racing. its hard for me to explain stuff lol. i one of these ppl that have to show u not tell u. typically do u want soft rear and stiff front or what? thats what im wanting to know. cause this will be my first car ive tuned myself trying to find out what to do and what direction. im not by no means a car tuner but i want to learn . i want to do my own stuff cause i like being able to do my own stuff cause i know what i want. just need a general direction.
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09-03-2013, 09:01 PM | #4 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
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Very light front.
Very stiff rear. At least I think for my car. On a 250# spring and the shock on the very stiffest settings the car would bottom out and bounce uncontrollable. I know have a modified set up that allows the coil over to accept an 8", 2.5" ID, 400 lbs spring on a double adjustable shock. If this doesn't work I quit. |
09-03-2013, 09:33 PM | #5 |
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No surprise, but stick cars are trickier to set up for the strip.
One thing we used to watch out for with stick cars was the nose dropping on the shifts and the car spinning as a result. We just got the AFCO double adjustables on the Drag Radial car rebuilt and revalved for LS Fest this upcoming weekend.
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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II 13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800 |
09-03-2013, 10:07 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS 427ci Join Date: Jul 2009
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Stiffer is better but you also need to make sure the rebound is correct also as you really don't want the rear moving much more than an 1" as it should load the tire and stay on the tire.
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09-04-2013, 12:27 PM | #7 |
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i think thats what my cars doing atm no matter what i try with moving weight around . grabs good in first and when i hit 2nd it spins bad. i think its unloading and droppin the front to much. sway bars out it picks up alot more in the front then it use to. but it also drops more too.
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09-04-2013, 01:05 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Silver 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Jul 2011
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i think this question is on topic, what does removing the front sway bar do?
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2011 2SS/RS L99
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09-04-2013, 01:27 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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Quote:
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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09-04-2013, 01:44 PM | #10 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
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We haven't been running a front sway bar on our shop car for the longest time now. We didn't do any back to back testing but we feel that taking the front sway bar off really lets the front suspension travel more freely.
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09-04-2013, 01:48 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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If thats the case I should give it a shot!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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09-04-2013, 01:54 PM | #12 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
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09-04-2013, 02:32 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
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How much of a job is it to remove? My olds was a 10 min job!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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09-04-2013, 05:29 PM | #14 |
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I was going to respond back sooner but work was quite busy today.
So if you are spinning on the 1-2 shift, could mean that the car is nosing over and losing weight transfer. Could also be that how you shift is upsetting the car, like if you powershift or you are overpowering the tires at that power level. We for example with the DR class car experiment with things like shifting the trans sooner and lower to avoid some things that the car does on some tracks. But back to you, if the nose drops a lot, the back tires can spin in a stick car. That's why some manual trans setups would set up the drag shocks so the nose will stay up and not come down. Also run the rears a little softer than auto cars. It's a bit of trial and error but typically the auto cars will run the front looser and not worry as much about the nose coming back down on the shifts.
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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II 13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800 |
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