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Old 09-10-2013, 10:21 PM   #18
mlee
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Originally Posted by Supercharged SS View Post
There's really no reason for any of us to deep stage. Its closer to red lighting and you cant get any momentum. Stage shallow and you'll have done steam already built up when you trip the lights. Better 60'd and lower ET's.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:22 PM   #19
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Nice work guys.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Supercharged SS View Post
There's really no reason for any of us to deep stage. Its closer to red lighting and you cant get any momentum. Stage shallow and you'll have some team already built up when you trip the lights. Better 60'd and lower ET's.
Very good point. This is what I do.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:36 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Supercharged SS View Post
There's really no reason for any of us to deep stage. Its closer to red lighting and you cant get any momentum. Stage shallow and you'll have some team already built up when you trip the lights. Better 60'd and lower ET's.
Unless your an index racer!
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Camarojt View Post
Very good point. This is what I do.
I try and barely light the bulbs. Just make them flicker. That way I know I'm giving myself every opportunity to make a good pass.

Doing this you can leave on the 2nd light and never red light while also getting killer R/T.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:39 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
Unless your an index racer!
I do this everytime. I index race the same way. Doesn't matter which way you are doing it as long as your consistent. If you dial in with a time shallow stagging you'll prob be slower with staging deep.

Last edited by Supercharged SS; 09-10-2013 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:56 PM   #24
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Although I generally agree, its not always the case-especially for slower cars on a Pro tree.
I deep stage often when I need a better R/T And a slower ET to meet index.
No-I'm not saying RT affects ET -so please no one get started on that -subject beaten up already.
You're the bracket champ so I take your word. Usually local events don't run a pro tree so I try and just do exactly the same thing pass after pass.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:02 PM   #25
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Actually the opposite-you'll be slower
Tim
Yeah, that's what I meant to say. Talking while texting..... Just don't do it.. No head start = slower ET.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:17 PM   #26
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Excellent post. Good refresher for those who have never done a drag race or hasn't been to the track in a long time (like myself). For those with autos, what do most favor to turn off in terms of the nannies to get the best times?
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:18 PM   #27
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Oh, forgot... any tips on RPM's for a good launch on stock tires?
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:19 PM   #28
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The last pass I made was in 1979... And at NEW ENGLAND DRAGWAY they had Wednesday nite grudge racing...it was 2.00 to race as many times as you could...that's no typo 2 bucks !!! What does it cost nowa days ???
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:08 AM   #29
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The last pass I made was in 1979... And at NEW ENGLAND DRAGWAY they had Wednesday nite grudge racing...it was 2.00 to race as many times as you could...that's no typo 2 bucks !!! What does it cost nowa days ???
Most test and tune sessions can run from $15-$25. Every once in awhile you will find a track doing a special.
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:27 AM   #30
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I would include the definition of a driver mod, as that term gets thrown around quite often. And also what the DA of the track is. Newbs need to know too!
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #31
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Courtesy Staging - (except deep staging) - After your burnout, roll up to the line, light one bulb on the tree. Do not light the second bulb until the car in the other lane has at least lit one bulb. They can roll in and light both bulbs if you already have one lit but nobody should light both bulbs until the other car has one lit. Note: Deep stage cars should abide by the same rule. However, I have seen instances when the deep stage car will quickly get in and light the second bulb. Note: Once a driver lights both bulbs, the other driver typically has 10 seconds to stage.

Roll-out - is the time from when the driver initiates the leave until the car physically leaves the starting line that starts the Elapsed Time (E.T.) clock. This could and should effect how you stage and leave the line. I will not dispose all the technical components of this, but a Heads/Cam Camaro on 20" drag radials will have roughly .42-.50 roll-out.

Note: Jamie makes a great point above because he runs a smaller tire with more power, it does benefit him to shallow stage. Why? Because his rollout is probably in the .30 to .35 range. If his instincts are to leave on the third yellow, it will prevent him from red lighting. Most NHRA drivers will typically shallow stage. No, I am not saying Jamie is an NHRA driver, but his car rolls out like a typical NHRA car.
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:41 AM   #32
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Driver Mod - The act of repeatedly slapping yourself in the head for doing stupid stuff at the track (slow r/t, red lighting, bad burnout, out of the groove, running too fast, running too slow, improper shifting, left the nannies on, etc.).

Driver Mod 2 - A driver needs to lose weight to make the car run faster.

I will leave DA to the experts and those with time on their hands.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:00 AM   #33
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Well you kids can't complain about slow cars these days....performance is back and doing well !! Back in 78-79 I ran a 1957 Chevy Station Wagon.. 12.69 @ 108.88. Drove it to the track and drove it home...Not bad for the Day...a 12 second street car was fast back then....heck ...Jungle Jim just broke the 200 mph barrier in Top Fuel 75-76 !!!!
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:25 AM   #34
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