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Dragstrip and Launch Techniques Discussion 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, launch discussions.

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Old 12-24-2013, 05:19 AM   #76
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Never been to a track, but plan on it after my current deployment to Afghanistan. This helped immensely! Thanks for the great info guys!
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:25 AM   #77
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:31 PM   #78
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This thread is very informative!

I've never done a strip run, and would like to -didn't know the basic rules.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:46 PM   #79
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So shut it down?
I shut mine down and push it! Lol
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:02 AM   #80
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Hey Guy's, any advice for ideal take off with stock pirelli's with my setup, run out of money so tryin stocks before drag radials go on, it's my first time this weekend with this car at brand new track in my area which will have track bite on it. My tune will bang each gear as hits redline but obviously I will have serious traction issues. What PSI is ideal for the pirellis & how long should I take to roll throttle on for some sort of traction off the line or can I just let it spin till it hooks next gear & (prob 3rd) gains traction?
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:11 PM   #81
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Kiwi if you are on stock tires you'll probably have to ease it off the line so as not to spin for a couple car lengths.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:22 AM   #82
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Kiwi if you are on stock tires you'll probably have to ease it off the line so as not to spin for a couple car lengths.
Well just done first drag meet in this car, you weren't joking bout those street tires, couldn't get it to hook up till mid of third gear, had Pzero's down to 15PSI, but some heat in them actually worked a bit, 0-60ft terrible 2.1-2.2 sec, got it down still to a 12.3 sec @120mph, so hopefully with drag radials should see a good mid 11 hopefully next time.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:02 AM   #83
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I think that's pretty good for stock tires.

Drag radials will make racing more enjoyable. Rather than you holding back on getting into the throttle you should be able to get into it pretty quick though I doubt you will hook just stomping on the gas. You have a converter too? You must be making 550-600rwhp?
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:18 PM   #84
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I think that's pretty good for stock tires.

Drag radials will make racing more enjoyable. Rather than you holding back on getting into the throttle you should be able to get into it pretty quick though I doubt you will hook just stomping on the gas. You have a converter too? You must be making 550-600rwhp?
This is my D/D so stock converter here, staying that way as gas is really expensive here, haven't had car dynoed yet but tuner says should be good for 600rwhp with my combo, only suspension mod is cradle bushing inserts which seem to do a good job, haven't experienced wheel hop yet & I think I should disconnect aftermarket sway in front next time too. I will be sticking with 20" so will be a restriction there as well, hoping to get Nitto's 275/40R20 NT555R's next.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:56 PM   #85
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I had 20" 555R's and liked them, they are better than stock tires. Drive great for daily driving until it gets cold out. I like NT05R's more for traction but they have less 'tread.'




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13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | Headers, Cats | 555R DR | CAI | UDP | Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | +NT05R 18s | + Circle D 3200
11.84@113 1.59 | + 3.91s | +Race Star 17x7s
Mods: GPI Tune | Bo's PTB | Kooks LTs | Hooker Maxflows | Circle D 3200 | New Era OTR | RCR AirRam Manifold | Powerbond UDP | 3.91s
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:09 AM   #86
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Well today is opening day at MIR! Should be awesome.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:51 PM   #87
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Dumb Random questions:

1)Deep staging and shallow staging. What does that mean? You guys mention it, but I don't see it defined...unless I missed it...which is possible.

2)Helmet. Do they check to see if it's an auto racing helmet? Can I get away with a motorcycle DOT helmet?

3)Technique for my setup. I am getting a Whipple, LS9 cam, and a few other things put on my L99. I only have a few suspension mods so far, including rear sway, trailing arms, and springs. I am using Michelon PSS 20" tires 295 in the rear. I gather from what you guys have listed to push the T/C button just once, disabling T/C only? Ok, then what? With my setup, do I wait for green and mash the accelerator, or ease it for a half second, then mash it, or do I apply the brake and get to a certain RPM?

4)Does anyone know if the Michelon PSS tires like to be heated up first?

thanks, and sorry if my questions are moronic.
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:59 PM   #88
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hmmmm.
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:46 PM   #89
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I guess no one monitors this thread. Oh well, it was worth a try.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:06 PM   #90
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Dumb Random questions:

1)Deep staging and shallow staging. What does that mean? You guys mention it, but I don't see it defined...unless I missed it...which is possible.

2)Helmet. Do they check to see if it's an auto racing helmet? Can I get away with a motorcycle DOT helmet?

3)Technique for my setup. I am getting a Whipple, LS9 cam, and a few other things put on my L99. I only have a few suspension mods so far, including rear sway, trailing arms, and springs. I am using Michelon PSS 20" tires 295 in the rear. I gather from what you guys have listed to push the T/C button just once, disabling T/C only? Ok, then what? With my setup, do I wait for green and mash the accelerator, or ease it for a half second, then mash it, or do I apply the brake and get to a certain RPM?

4)Does anyone know if the Michelon PSS tires like to be heated up first?

thanks, and sorry if my questions are moronic.
1. - deep staging is staging the car with the top bulbs (prestage lights) off but the stage lights on. Pretty much the farthest you can go before you are off the starting line/foul start.
Shallow staging is just barely into the "stage" light beams. Normally flickers. You see a lot of sportsman cars do this.

Deep staging i normally see pure street/stock cars doing when in a bracket race. Deep stage (with deep written next to the dial in) left foot on the brake and right on the gas just enough to load the converter. On the 3rd yellow left off the brake quickly and get on the gas. Closest thing to a trans brake you can do!

2. - really depends on the track. My local ones normally dont even check over stuff unless you are really flying. If you show up with a slightly modified or stock car that runs in the 13s or quicker - they will probably leave you alone. (i forget the rating it is supposed to follow - consult nhra rule book)

3. - i do not own a new camaro with launch control so someone else will need to chime in (if yours has launch control)
Traction control should be off. Youtube corvette and traction control or something like it (a prominent one is a silver corvette that crashes into the tree)
First - get a feel for your car with the mods. Wait for green roll into the gas and let it rip. This is to see how it feels at the top end etc.
Next - do what i said (just load the converter a little, unless you have tc, and on the 3rd yellow start going). To get a perfect light - its timing. Wait to green and you will never have a good reaction. However, reaction time has no effect on your elapsed time. So if you are just looking for the best time - dont worry about it. If in a race this is normally good for a solid .1 over the other newb next to you.

4. - if street tire dont warm up - or just do a quick burnout out of the water. In my experience - street tires dont really benefit from being smoked/heated. Unless you drove through some water etc.

its better to ask a moronic question here than look like a moron at the track
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:18 PM   #91
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Yeah you would only deep stage if you are bracket racing IMO.

If you press ABS/TCS once, the traction control will turn off. Experiment with the button. I usually hold the button down about 4 seconds, which turns off traction control and stabilitrak. That's just me, [insert legal disclaimer here].

You'll need a sticky tire to hook your car after you do the blower or you will have to feather the gas on the launch.

You can race with a motorcycle helmet if it's still legal.
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13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
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12.06@113 1.70 | +NT05R 18s | + Circle D 3200
11.84@113 1.59 | + 3.91s | +Race Star 17x7s
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:30 PM   #92
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Good info!

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Old 03-09-2014, 08:31 PM   #93
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Thanks much for the info. I will look like a newb that first time for sure, but if I can fool a few people and at least look like I have a clue what's going on, I will be better off.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:47 PM   #94
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Thanks much for the info. I will look like a newb that first time for sure, but if I can fool a few people and at least look like I have a clue what's going on, I will be better off.
what track do you go to? I see Illinois

I run at byron a lot. If you are ever there i can help you out!
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:13 PM   #95
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I'm in Lansing, right on the Indiana border. I will probably go to US 41 in Indiana because I hear that Joliet is a real pain in the ass with their rules.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:57 PM   #96
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US41 is now called No Limit Raceway.

Post up if you go there, I used to race there a lot when Papa Norm owned it.
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | Headers, Cats | 555R DR | CAI | UDP | Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | +NT05R 18s | + Circle D 3200
11.84@113 1.59 | + 3.91s | +Race Star 17x7s
Mods: GPI Tune | Bo's PTB | Kooks LTs | Hooker Maxflows | Circle D 3200 | New Era OTR | RCR AirRam Manifold | Powerbond UDP | 3.91s
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:44 PM   #97
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Thanks, I will. And thanks for the tips.
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:24 AM   #98
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Dragstrip Etiquette:
1. Don't start your burnout until directed by an official. He'll usually give you some sort of hand signal. Also make sure you are all the way on the track and facing directly forwards.
2. Don't do burnouts in the water with treaded street tires. Water gets into the treads and tracks all the way to the starting line. Do not drive through the water box with front street tires. Drive around the water box and back into the water box. This makes the drivers with slicks very angry.
3. Don't do a John Force-style burnout (i.e. spinning the tires through and past the starting line, forcing you to back up) unless you don't have any front brakes and/or you are John Force.
4. Be sure you leave plenty of room to brake at the end of the track without doing a massive ABS stop. Locking 'em up at this speed could be very dangerous. Most tracks have two turn off areas. If you miss the first one, proceed to the second one.
5. Some tracks employ a courtesy rule. This means that the first car into the staging beams should light only the pre-stage light. When the second car is is pre-staged, then either of you can move up slightly into the staging lights.
6. Make sure your numbers and dial-in (if applicable) are visible from the tower. General height is 3-5 inches.
7. Make sure you get in the right staging lane, and make sure that you don't attempt to run in a class where your car would not be appropriate. Ask if you are unsure.

8. Always follow instructions from all track officials and listen closely to any PA announcements. This will prevent you from getting confused or worse yet getting kicked off the track. Most tracks have radio stations in the event you cannot hear the PA.
9. If you are still unsure what to do, either ask a fellow driver or a track official. All of us have been in the same position at one time or another and most people are glad to help.







INDEX RACING
under construction

BRACKET RACING

WHAT IS THE GOAL? - Bracket racing is designed to test the driver and the consistancy of their abilities. So it is not a matter of who's car is the fastest. But better yet, who is the better driver all around.

DIAL-IN - Before racing, each car will essentially "predict" what ET their car will run. This is important because you will line up against others that are slower and/or faster. So the racers do not leave at the same time. So as stated in the goal, after DIALING-IN, your goal throughout the whole bracket race is to run as close to this disclosed time as possible, WITHOUT GOING FASTER...

BREAKING-OUT - If a racer runs a ET faster then their disclosed "dial-in" time. If only one racer "breaks-out" they are automatically disqualified. If both racers "break-out"... then the one closest to their "dial-in" time wins.

HOW DO I WIN -beating each opponent you race by running as close to your "dial-in" time as possible and not "breaking-out", red lighting, or crossing over the boundary line. The layout is generally run as a tournament style bracket.

WAYS OF BEING DISQUALIFIED
- Red lighting
- Crossing over the center boundary line
- hitting the wall, breaking, or crashing
- Breaking-out






CLASSES OF DRAG RACING : per NHRA.com

Top Fuel
Among the fastest-accelerating machines in the world, these 7,000-horsepower dragsters can cover the dragstrip in less than 3.8 *seconds at more than 325 mph. Top Fuel cars are 25 feet long and weigh 2,320 pounds in race-ready trim.

Funny Car
Similar to their Top Fuel counterparts but with a shorter *wheelbase and a carbon-fiber body that loosely resembles a production-based automobile, Funny Cars, or “floppers,” routinely run in the 4.0s and can exceed 315 mph.

Pro Stock
Often called “factory hot rods” because of their resemblance to production-based cars, Pro Stockers can run in the 6.4s at more than 210 mph. They can rev to more than 10,500 rpm and make in excess of 1,300 horsepower.

Top Alcohol Dragster
Top Alcohol Dragsters may look like Top Fuelers, but they have significant differences. They may use a supercharged methanol-burning engine or an injected nitromethane *combination. They can run in the 5.1s at more than 280 mph.

Top Alcohol Funny Car
Similar in physical appearance to their nitro-burning Funny Car counterparts, Top Alcohol Funny Cars are restricted to the use of methanol fuel and have three-speed transmissions. They can run in the 5.4s at more than 265 mph.

Comp
No category in NHRA competition features more variety than Comp. Each of the 88 classes is assigned an index based on what a well-built car should run, and races are handicapped according to those indexes.

Super Stock
Super Stock vehicles may look like ordinary passenger vehicles, but they are highly modified race cars. Entries are classified using factory shipping weight and horsepower and compete on indexes. The breakout rule is enforced.

Stock
Stock cars are similar to Super Stockers, but rules regarding everything from engine modifications to body alterations are much stricter. Virtually any car is eligible to compete, and entries are classified using factory shipping weight and horsepower.

Super Comp
The quickest of the heads-up Super classes (8.90 index) is composed primarily of dragsters. Most cars are capable of running well under the index but use electronic aids to run close to the index without running quicker than it, or breaking out.

Super Gas
Super Gas entries, which run on a 9.90 index, are primarily full-bodied cars and street roadsters. No dragsters or altereds are permitted. As in Super Comp, competitors use electronic aids to run as close to the class standard without going under.

Super Street
Racers compete on a fixed 10.90 index. All vehicles must be full-bodied cars and weigh no less than 2,800 pounds except for six-cylinder cars (2,000) and four-cylinder and rotary-powered cars (1,200). Engine and chassis modifications are virtually unlimited.

Top Sportsman
Competitors in these full-bodied entries may choose their own dial for eliminations, generally from 6.00 to 7.99 seconds. Full Tree starts are used, and the breakout rule is enforced. Cars can run in the sixes at more than 200 mph.

Top Dragster
Competitors in these open-wheel entries may choose their own dial for eliminations, generally from 6.00 to 7.70 seconds. Full Tree starts are used, and the breakout rule is enforced. Cars can run in the sixes at more than 200 mph.

Pro Mod
The NHRA Pro Mod Drag Racing Series presented by ProCare Rx runs at 10 NHRA Full Throttle events. An eclectic mix of vehicles, from ’41 Willys coupes to ’63 Corvettes to late-model Ford Mustangs and Dodge Vipers, can run in the high fives at more than 250 mph.
If you're running a 9 second or quicker manual car, a long burnout is quite acceptable. Some state used to have laws against having line locks installed on registered street cars.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:38 PM   #99
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Great write up! Thanks
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:41 PM   #100
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Yeah for the first timer, I always recommend parking your car after you tech it since you have to cool it off anyway - then wandering up to the starting line to familiarize yourself with everything.
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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | Headers, Cats | 555R DR | CAI | UDP | Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | +NT05R 18s | + Circle D 3200
11.84@113 1.59 | + 3.91s | +Race Star 17x7s
Mods: GPI Tune | Bo's PTB | Kooks LTs | Hooker Maxflows | Circle D 3200 | New Era OTR | RCR AirRam Manifold | Powerbond UDP | 3.91s

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