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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 11-17-2013, 03:27 PM   #51
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I'm taking my intake manifold off as part of another project next week......so I think I'll replace the valley cover while I'm in there. I'll post the findings and results.
Really appreciate this!

If you can, add a small DIY procedure on valley cover replacement as well, for some of us with less talents to adhere to.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:51 AM   #52
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I'm taking my intake manifold off as part of another project next week......so I think I'll replace the valley cover while I'm in there. I'll post the findings and results.
Change in plan:
I'm going to do some science first. i plan to plug off the valey cover port and pull from the rear port of the drivers valve cover. from the info i've found so far, both ports are "restricted flow" and suitable as attachment points for the PCV system.

does anyone have supporting or refuting info regarding the use of the drivers valve cover to connect the inlet of the catch can?
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:53 AM   #53
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if the catch can collects the same amount of oil, the valley cover is not an issue, and i need to visit the dealer. if the catch can amount drops drastically.............then the valley cover is the culprit.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:10 PM   #54
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That's an interesting theory, awaiting your data...

Godspeed dude
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
Change in plan:
I'm going to do some science first. i plan to plug off the valey cover port and pull from the rear port of the drivers valve cover. from the info i've found so far, both ports are "restricted flow" and suitable as attachment points for the PCV system.

does anyone have supporting or refuting info regarding the use of the drivers valve cover to connect the inlet of the catch can?
dunno... but L99s connect to the rear of the driver side cover... thats where mine is connected, per instructions from Rx.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:06 PM   #56
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That's an interesting theory, awaiting your data...

Godspeed dude
+1
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:34 PM   #57
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I checked my Elite can last week after about 1500 miles of driving. I had nowhere near that much oil get collected in my can.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:59 PM   #58
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I checked my Elite can last week after about 1500 miles of driving. I had nowhere near that much oil get collected in my can.
What kind of driving? Highway, stop and go, how often WOT? Once a day? Once a week?

At what mileage did you install the can?
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:06 PM   #59
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Curious OP what is your oil level? Is it over the full line? Also check that the air box is seated correctly (all of the tabs "in") over the filter - mine wasn't.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #60
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Curious OP what is your oil level? Is it over the full line? Also check that the air box is seated correctly (all of the tabs "in") over the filter - mine wasn't.
Oil level was never past the full mark, be rest assured of that!

I'll double check the air box seating that you speak of.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:08 PM   #61
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I'm not saying you don't have a problem but that could be the result of new engine break in. Not many put a can on at 500mi or less. Almost all the pics and responses of others are from fully broken in engines. I myself didn't put mine on until 6k miles and 2k miles later only had a couple TBSP. If I had put in on a brand new engine I am sure it would have collected a sh!tload until it was broken in. I broke my engine in HARD changing the oil and filter often. I truly believe if you have a new motor and get it up to full operating temps and do as many WOT pulls as possible with enough cool down between and plenty of high ZDDP oil and filter changes that the engine will have little blowby. Again not saying you don't have another problem, just stating a possibility.

Off topic, but has anyone ever seen a Coyote motor with a catch can from day 1? They will collect even more oil than that until its broken in.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #62
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Update: not conclusive yet.................
checked the can today and it "appears" as though it is not catching as much oil. it is a bit early to celebrate, but things look hopeful.
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #63
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Any more news of this?
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:12 AM   #64
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2nd update:
the can is definately collecting a LOT less oil with the can inlet connected to the valve cover.
i went by the dealer to see if they would provide a valley cover, but they said my car was modified..............blah, blah, blah and the engine was no longer covered by the warranty.
SO, i'll get one ordered and replace the cover (the engine will look better without the hose running across to the valve cover). due to work and other things, i probably won't do the repair until late Jan or sometime in March. if not done by then, i'll post a DIY on the repair.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:14 AM   #65
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We are pulling an intake manifold here pretty soon on a local club car to send off for porting. I can take some pictures for you guys if you want. It is a really simple process though. I think you would be fine if you just dug in.

1) Pull the green lock tab up and disconnect the connector from each injector. I pulled the spark plug wires and removed the coil pack brackets too. I'm not sure if that was necessary or not. I was checking under valve covers as well in my case.

2) Release excess fuel pressure in the rail with the valve on the front end of the driver's side fuel rail. Just get a bunch of rags to catch the fuel.

3) Use a fuel rail disconnect tool to release the feed line that crosses over the intake plenum and attaches on the driver's side. Hang the feed line up and out of the way from the hood strut. Use rags here too... some fuel will spill out.

4) Use some pliers to loosen the clamp on the brake booster line so you can pull the hose off the side of the brake reservoir. This is the thick black hose that runs to the back of the intake manifold from the driver's side. My clamp was a bit of a PITA because the tabs on the clamp were facing the firewall.

5) Remove all of the intake manifold bolts. They are long bolts and you won't be able to get the bolts in the very back out. They will hit the cowl. Just have someone hold them up while you pull the intake manifold out towards the front. Be VERY careful when you do this. That brake booster line runs behind a sensor that is sticking up out of the block. It is really easy to break off if the hose gets caught on it. Just lift the hose over the sensor as you pull the manifold out.

6) The valley cover is just a plate bolted onto the block... you won't have any trouble figuring that part out .

I probably forgot something, but you should be able to stumble through it.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #66
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Thx thahemp, step 2 is particularly intelligent.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:22 PM   #67
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I figure there is a reason my world hasn't consumed me.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:46 PM   #68
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I would say something is wrong. I run my LS3 hard to redline probably 20 times a day in 1st gear and have almost 20K miles on mine and have not had that much oil in my Elite can total.

And yes my rear tires hate me. One second set now.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:40 AM   #69
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Any update on this?
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:00 PM   #70
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I would say something is wrong. I run my LS3 hard to redline probably 20 times a day in 1st gear and have almost 20K miles on mine and have not had that much oil in my Elite can total.

And yes my rear tires hate me. One second set now.
Yes, but ONCE AGAIN, you are yet an other user reporting observations on a fully broken-in engine.

I'd like to hear from those who added a catch can shortly after driving away from the show room on a virgin engine, and driving exactly as you have reported.

..........

thahemp any updates?

I won't have any myself until April at the very least.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:17 PM   #71
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Nope. I've had everything BUT the intake apart on my car over the last week. I'm flipping my fuel rails next week so I can finish my nitrous project. I can take some pictures that show how to go ahead and remove the manifold.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:17 PM   #72
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With at least 3 months to go until I take Sledge out again, I'm considering here replacing the valley cover thingy on my own dime just for the hell of it. I have two questions to ask though, sorry if they are dumb ones, but I have nothing lose but to ask.

How will I be able to tell if the new valley cover won't be defective AGAIN? It wound truly suck to install the new one, and have the same issues as before. Assuming of course that my original valley cover was truly defective of course, but I can't be entirely sure yet on this new not-broken-in engine.

This might be the dumb question of the post, but when I install a AGP turbo kit in about a full years time from now, does part of the new turbo kit hardware include a new or different design valley cover as well as part of the kit?
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:31 AM   #73
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Any update on this?
i'm still out of the country. i hope to make the repair late Jan, if all things work out.

Camaro Dude asks a good question re "How will I be able to tell if the new valley cover won't be defective AGAIN?"
After removal i was going to look at the old one and use low pressure air to see if it has leaks where the plastic makes up to the valley cover. hopefully i will find a leak and then look at the new cover and do a test, again, hopefully with the results of "no leak".............this is the ideal situation.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:25 AM   #74
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With at least 3 months to go until I take Sledge out again, I'm considering here replacing the valley cover thingy on my own dime just for the hell of it. I have two questions to ask though, sorry if they are dumb ones, but I have nothing lose but to ask.

How will I be able to tell if the new valley cover won't be defective AGAIN? It wound truly suck to install the new one, and have the same issues as before. Assuming of course that my original valley cover was truly defective of course, but I can't be entirely sure yet on this new not-broken-in engine.

This might be the dumb question of the post, but when I install a AGP turbo kit in about a full years time from now, does part of the new turbo kit hardware include a new or different design valley cover as well as part of the kit?
I'd say put it in and run it. If your catch can is still filling up, it was either not the problem in the first place, or you got another bad one. You can have the valley cover off and replaced and everything back together with basic tools in about an hour.

Pretty sure you won't be getting a new valley cover with any turbo kit.
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Old 01-14-2014, 01:29 AM   #75
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A little late to game, but I put an Elite Catch Can on my car about 120 miles ago. My car has 45k on it. 2010 LS3. I do not by any means drive my car hard. I do get on it occasionally, but not near as much as others on this site. I pulled my catch can down and it was about half full, with a little over 100 miles on it. Does that sound excessive or normal? There was NO hard driving since the catch can was installed as I am also breaking in a brand new differential.
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