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Old 10-30-2013, 06:17 PM   #29
litle88
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strych9 View Post
Excellent info! I disagree with the film strength argument made by another poster, as Mobil1 has a very high film strength rating. Zinc...could be a factor, but I would be interested to see some analyses. Several big-name performance builders use and recommend Mobil1 with their builds and installs, so it's hard to know who to believe.
Full synthetic M1 5W30 has very good film strength but poor ZDDP. The one M1 type which 2 big name shops recommend that does have good levels of ZDDP is 15W50 but it has poor film strength. So what I said was true. All the weights have either poor film strength OR poor levels of ZDDP.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by JDP Motorsports View Post

... I do prefer Red Line personally but it is twice the cost of Mobil1 and I also like the PF48R filters over the PF48. ...

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What does the PF48R bring to table? Is it just bigger?


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Old 10-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #32
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Hmmm. I'm at 67K miles and have run M1 5w30 since day one with no issues--6K since the blower install, 36K since the cam swap.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:32 PM   #33
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That is correct. We use mobile 1 BUT only 0w-40 which has a good zinc content.

In the last few years we have seen a good amount of cam/lifter failures. All different brand cams so I rule the cam out. Most common answer was using whatever oil was on sale.
I think the cams falling apart is what causes the oil pump pressure valves to stick. I've had a mellings stick before.
So, best I could say is use the correct oil and filter, change regularly.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:46 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by fldrummer View Post
Hmmm. I'm at 67K miles and have run M1 5w30 since day one with no issues--6K since the blower install, 36K since the cam swap.
There's 3 or 4 of you that pop into threads like these saying that you haven't had any issues with your setup, that's cool. But for every 3 or 4 of you that have had good luck, there's 5-6 that haven't. I'm not willing to take a chance with those odds.

Think about it like this: The OP was probably like you a few months ago, and popped into a thread like this and said "I'm on xx,xxx miles with my setup with no issues." And now the OP had a failure and you popped in his thread saying the same thing..... See what I did there?
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:26 PM   #35
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There's 3 or 4 of you that pop into threads like these saying that you haven't had any issues with your setup, that's cool. But for every 3 or 4 of you that have had good luck, there's 5-6 that haven't. I'm not willing to take a chance with those odds.

Think about it like this: The OP was probably like you a few months ago, and popped into a thread like this and said "I'm on xx,xxx miles with my setup with no issues." And now the OP had a failure and you popped in his thread saying the same thing..... See what I did there?
Yeah, you don't want to be that 1 guy out of 10 who pops a motor, trust me. I remember when LG or some other shop had a thread on oil and high ramp rate cams. They stated not to use the factory 5w30 M1 or any M1 for that matter. I thought wait, my shop recommends M1. Those guys on the internet must not know what they are talking about. Couple months later my engine is needing replaced or rebuilt. If a shop wants you to use M1 on a cammed motor fine, ask them if they will warranty it if there is a related issue. Chances are they are not and your on your own. Everyone who reads this thread has been warned. Use which ever oil you want at your own risk because chances are your tuner/builder wont do anything about it either way.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:31 PM   #36
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I use Mobile 1. I add this. http://www.zddplus.com/ makes oil what it should be.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:08 PM   #37
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That hilarious cause I cringed when I saw that too! I see you recommend RP. Did they change their setup at all? I had read a couple posts on LS1TECH that the oil was too slippery and sometimes actually caused sludge. I switched to Valvoline Synpower since VR1 got pulled from the shelves. So far so good!
????? when did they pull VR1? I haven't looked lately but I know you can still buy it online.

I'm still running M1 5w-30 on this car but my internals are all stock. I'm starting to wonder if I should change to something else next time. VR1 would be my choice if I do.

I've just recently started running VR1 in my '69 after reading about all the oil issues.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:28 PM   #38
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????? when did they pull VR1? I haven't looked lately but I know you can still buy it online.

I'm still running M1 5w-30 on this car but my internals are all stock. I'm starting to wonder if I should change to something else next time. VR1 would be my choice if I do.

I've just recently started running VR1 in my '69 after reading about all the oil issues.
Its been about 5 months or so that stores stopped restocking. I asked the guys at Oreilleys about it and they said they were pulling it off the shelves. Last time I went all they has was 40w and 50w. They still had a couple containers of 10w-30 VR1 synthetic, but I was running conventional for the higher ZDDP. Ive seen a couple cases here and there on eBay. Amazon was out of stock a couple weeks ago but looks to have some now. Maybe its coming back??

Edit: Looks like it went up in price also. Used to be $4.99, now its $7.99/qt.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:36 AM   #39
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????? when did they pull VR1? I haven't looked lately but I know you can still buy it online.

I'm still running M1 5w-30 on this car but my internals are all stock. I'm starting to wonder if I should change to something else next time. VR1 would be my choice if I do.

I've just recently started running VR1 in my '69 after reading about all the oil issues.
Until you cam it I'm sure you will be fine. Just use a good filter and change both more often than OEM recommends. I think Pennzoil Platinum Ultra would work well on a stock cam and be better than normal full synthetic M1. I think the off the shelf M1, Castrol, Pennzoil and other PREMIUM full synthetic 5W-30 oils are a good oil for a stock cam as they do have very good film strength but they seriously lack in the ZDDp. Not really their fault as the Government made them do this. The ZDDP content is what is needed for aftermarket cams with aggressive lifts and fast/aggressive lobe ramp rates. The ZDDP additive is interesting and I wonder if it works like it should. That way you could use a inexpensive oil like Pennzoil Platinum Ultra which has great film strength and get the ZDDP levels correct as well. Thing is I have no idea if they work as directed. Case in point octane boosters. Only like 2 out of tens of those actually work as directed.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:11 AM   #40
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Everything im reading about ZDDP is about flat tappet cams. I use Amsoil 5w30 signature. Id like to keep useing it. Maybe ill switch to Zrod when I get my cam. What will this do to the cats. Im planning on ARH lt headers with cats and cam at the same time in the spring. cam specs. 230/242 .612 114LSA
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:29 AM   #41
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Everything im reading about ZDDP is about flat tappet cams. I use Amsoil 5w30 signature. Id like to keep useing it. Maybe ill switch to Zrod when I get my cam. What will this do to the cats. Im planning on ARH lt headers with cats and cam at the same time in the spring. cam specs. 230/242 .612 114LSA
It just clogs them up faster. OEM cats are expected to make it past 100k miles before showing signs of failure. If you're running aftermarket cats, instead of making it to 100k, they may only make it to 50k. But the easy way to look at it is, $200 for new high flow cats, or $9000 for a new engine. Easy math if you ask me!
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:48 AM   #42
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i just posted a thread about my plans for this spring. ARH LT headers. might skip the cats all together. I dont want any smells though.
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