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Old 10-28-2013, 02:13 PM   #1
Mean Green Z28

 
Drives: 2010 2SS
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Second time at the track with the 2010 2SS ... embarrased

First time out, spun like hell on launch and only managed a 13.54@107

This time, the clutch acted up. Launched easy, shifted to second and ... no pedal ... let revs drop and pedal popped back up, rest of the run went fine.

Then again, 1-2 shift and pedal only came up halfway ... I only realized it when I was ready for 3rd (per the RPM's) .. I must have been slipping the clutch for a while now, shifted to 3rd and the rest of the run went fine.

Best for the night on a very easy launch, slow shifting, wheel hopping like mad on 2nd gear ... 13.45@108

Clutch smelled really bad after the last run and I was afraid I'd ruined it (when the pedal only came up half way) ... gave up and called it a night and hung out with the guys. Clutch was chattering quite a bit when leaving the track, but cleared out after driving around the next day.

I've been reading, and one thing that came up was to separate the reservoirs and bleed the fluid.

As far as I know, stock clutch and hardware (bought her used).

Questions:

I'd like to add a speed bleeder, but do i have to take the trans out to get to the fitting on the slave? I'm guessing yes, but still threw it out there.

What really does adding the separate reservoir do for me?

Do I have to replace the Master Cylinder? if so, with what/brand?

What have you'll done to keep the wheel hop down? I'm not looking to convert my car to a drag setup.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:17 PM   #2
FargasJ
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Try (after figuring out the clutch thing) to lower the tire pressure (30lb+/-) on the rear tires...
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #3
Mean Green Z28

 
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Oh forgot to add that temps were plummeting and it was like 45F track so the pzeros where never warm enough even after a decent burn out
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:55 PM   #4
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Google "Ideal Garage" (a.k.a. IdealG). They make the only aftermarket/modified clutch master cylinder typically used to get rid of 2nd gear grind. And you can buy it with the separate reservoir. Other than that, you can buy the Tick Performance braided clutch line (which is different than the speed bleeder), but I don't quite understand how a braided line is going to perform better than a hard tube??? And yes, from what I've been told you must remove the Tranny to install the speed bleeder hose.

For wheel hop, you can start with trailing arms, toe rods, and replacement subframe bushings. But at 45 degress, I wouldn't expect a whole lot of performance out of those PZeros.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:38 PM   #5
FargasJ
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When I drag'ed on EVO's loosening the front sway bar helped on 60's
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #6
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Yea, I think your biggest problem isn't suspension, you might benefit from some different tires. At 45 degrees, the pzeros are useless. Upgrading the clutch would be #1 though.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:03 PM   #7
toNspahreP
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Don't worry about the smell, they smell like crap when you heat them up. It's normal
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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It really is difficult getting a guage on what you're doing wrong when cold temps and horrible track conditions come into play. First thing I would do is get the clutch taken care of.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:08 AM   #9
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Yep, that clutch issue happened to me first time I was at the track with my Camaro. Freaked me out a bit. The clutch is fine driving around on the street, getting on it on the street, and it is also fine if you let it completely cool down after driving to the track. No hot laps with the stock clutch though.

I spoke with IdealG who makes that upgraded master cylinder and he actually recommended upgrading my clutch before worrying about the master cylinder. Coming from the guy who doesn't sell clutches and doesn't make any money if he doesn't sell me a master cylinder, I tend to take his advice to heart.

Next upgrade will probably be a Mantic or McLeod clutch...
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