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Old 11-12-2013, 02:36 PM   #18
Bad70supreme


 
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I can tell you John that removing the sway definitely helped! As far as street driving I don't even notice is gone, other then the front end coming up higher on the gas.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:46 PM   #19
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I pulled an endlink off my front sway this weekend. Much easier to launch and be consistent...and from the vid you can see the nose come up more. On the street it is VERY noticeable at turn in that it is missing. I have Pfadt upgraded sways though.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:47 PM   #20
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Yeah I was surprised when someone said they couldn't notice a difference without a front sway bar lol

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Old 11-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
I put my stock 20's back last night and measured the gap like Jeff Brown. I'm 2.5 inches in back and 2 inches up front. So I'm guessing I can do a 1.0 front/ 1.5 rear drop kit like from BMR.

Rake is okay if the car is set up for it and mine is not. Mike if you ditched the front sway bar you get more extension up front as the car isn't as strapped down. I have done that in the 4th gen days, but hadn't gotten there with this car.

Nspar, so the different springs up front require drag shocks?

Yes, they require the narrow body strange S2063 coilovers, it's what they were designed around by strange.


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Question: what angle are you shooting for at rest? Level?

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Old 11-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #22
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i took my sway bar off and i cant tell much diff. but stock 10 bar on mine. i can tell a lil bit but not much. i dont road raceor anything tho.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:32 PM   #23
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Been a while since I've had the hood come up, I got pretty used to that over the last 15 years...

2000:


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Old 11-12-2013, 04:27 PM   #24
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I can tell its not there if I push a turn a bit harder, but nothing that would make me reinstall it. Putting aroun town I can't even tell.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:48 PM   #25
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its def worth takin it off if u like straight line stuff. i can tell a big diff on the front end lift onmine
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:02 PM   #26
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K buds, it's coming off first chance I get. I'm not taking corners like a drift guy as it is.
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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:50 PM   #27
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Ha...we talked him into it!! Lol, it's not my falt if you don't like it! Lol
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:50 PM   #28
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Ha maybe I need to drive someone else's car first.

Is your car lowered by the way Mike?
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13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:03 PM   #29
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Nope not at all, all stock suspension. I boxed my trailing arms and toe rods like old school.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:40 PM   #30
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Is your car looking like a 4x4 too, I'm 2.5 gap in the back, and 2.0 in the front. I only noticed it a few weeks ago at Byron when I was parked next to a bone stock 45th SS manual.
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:24 AM   #31
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I don't think it sits up, but it is lower in the front for sure.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:47 AM   #32
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I'm at 30 inches rear and 28 1/4 inches front ground to fender, but the rear tire is 2" taller, so the front level is really equivalent to 29 1/4. Guess that puts me rear at 3/4" higher.
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:02 PM   #33
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So BMR sells lowering springs, has a few options. One is 1.0 front and back, and another I think is 1.0 front, and 1.4 back.

My drag race brain says go 1.0/1.4 to level the car out and help with weight transfer.

Anyone disagree? And, if I do that will I have to run notched LCA's if I run 17's in back? And in the front, does lowering the car pull the tires closer to the struts? The area I wonder about is marked here in blue tape:



Rear gap, 2.5 or more:

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PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY
Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II
13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock
12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:39 PM   #34
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So BMR sells lowering springs, has a few options. One is 1.0 front and back, and another I think is 1.0 front, and 1.4 back.

My drag race brain says go 1.0/1.4 to level the car out and help with weight transfer.

Anyone disagree? And, if I do that will I have to run notched LCA's if I run 17's in back? And in the front, does lowering the car pull the tires closer to the struts? The area I wonder about is marked here in blue tape:



Rear gap, 2.5 or more:

We offer the 1" lowering springs (SP019), 1.4" lowering springs (SP022), and the split drop 1.4" front/1" rear lowering springs (SP025). We don't offer a kit with the 1" springs in the front and 1.4" springs in the back but we can do that for you if you would really like. I honestly don't think the difference in weight transfer between our different lowering spring options would be noticeable in feel or through 60ft times. I would probably recommend our 1" lowering springs because it will give you a nice lowered, level stance without sacrificing too much ground clearance or performance.

If you are wanting to run a 17" drag wheel in the back your best bet would be to use either our TCA028 or TCA029 lower control arms depending on your setup. Since you are planning on lowering the car I would more than likely recommend using our BMR non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028) which are actually shorter than the factory lower control arms and will allow you to get real close to 0 camber which is ideal for drag racing. The one downfall to using these lower control arms would be that you need to use adjustable toe rods to get the desired alignment specs out of the car.

Since you are mainly drag racing with the car you won't be running a crazy negative camber on the front of the car so you won't have to worry about the tire rubbing on the strut.

Kyle
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