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Old 11-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #15
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As I said in our PM's, Full bushings are a must at your power level. There is not much NVH transmitted by the solid bushings, but the movement they prevent/stop is crazy.

I know most have seen this video, but to this day, it's probably the best demonstration of deflection in the suspension I have seen.



Do it once, do it right; go with Pfadt.

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Old 11-26-2013, 07:10 PM   #16
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Hey this forum's for motorheads, LOL. You're lucky we can type!!!
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:31 PM   #17
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Damn Tyler. Something else I can't afford but want (and probably need)...
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Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace

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Old 11-26-2013, 08:47 PM   #18
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That video definitely makes me a believer. That price is up there though. I'm gonna work on the Toe rods and UCAs and then eventually work my way to the cradle bushings. So many parts I need! LOL.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:49 AM   #19
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Just drop the cradle down far enough for a socket to go between the bushing and frame. Heat the cradle around the bushing until it starts to melt the plastic and then jack up the cradle and push the bushing out.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Just drop the cradle down far enough for a socket to go between the bushing and frame. Heat the cradle around the bushing until it starts to melt the plastic and then jack up the cradle and push the bushing out.
Exactly! If you contact JusticePete from Pedders or do a search there are great DIY's of this! I agree with Tyler, do it right and do full bushings! I had BMR inserts and was never happy with them, I could still feel the rear end moving around! I went with Pedders full bushings and it made a big difference! Stick with the top 2 brands also, Pedders or Pfadt, I've seen others fail under hard road course work!
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:00 AM   #21
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What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings
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Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace

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Old 11-27-2013, 10:20 AM   #22
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I would definitely recommend the full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings for your power level. Our BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024) would be very good option for you that is very affordable and will perform well for you at your current power level and if you decide to make more power in the future. We have these same rear cradle bushings installed in many cars that drag race and autocross so they will be up to the task of handling pretty much anything you can throw at them.

Also we are staring our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale today so you can order these parts and get 15% off and free shipping. If there is anything we can help you out with let us know.

BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings
Yes I believe the Pfadt solids are on the same level as the pedders HD high durometer urethane bushings. I have the EP1201's installed and they are perfect for HPDE and autocross. The HD's and solids I would think are more for serious race applications.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:08 AM   #24
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I called Kyle and he took care of me on these exact ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
I would definitely recommend the full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings for your power level. Our BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024) would be very good option for you that is very affordable and will perform well for you at your current power level and if you decide to make more power in the future. We have these same rear cradle bushings installed in many cars that drag race and autocross so they will be up to the task of handling pretty much anything you can throw at them.

Also we are staring our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale today so you can order these parts and get 15% off and free shipping. If there is anything we can help you out with let us know.

BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:06 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by LS3 SS View Post
That video definitely makes me a believer. That price is up there though. I'm gonna work on the Toe rods and UCAs and then eventually work my way to the cradle bushings. So many parts I need! LOL.
I would strongly recommend doing both at the same time if you can swing it. There is a TON of overlapping labor and IMO they should really be done at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dexman1349 View Post
What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings
Polyurethane vs a Solid aluminum piece. Polyurethane is not bad for bolt-on to mild cammed cars, but for anything close to 500 RWHP+ I recommend the solid aluminum bushings. They will last longer and secure the rear cradle better than polyurethane ever will.

Best regards,

Tyler
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:44 PM   #26
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LS3,

You have a Bis @ss cam and you're worried about noise??

Look, get the full Pedders bushings Kit from JDP and be done with it. You will not be sorry.

If I knew you were looking for a toe rod I could have helped you out.

T.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #27
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ADM Performance has a solid bushing as well. It hasn't been around as much but looks to be a nice piece and priced decently. Just an option to look into. He quoted me the full cradle bushing plus upper control arm bushings installed for about the price of a set of Pfadt full bushing.
http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258


Although inserts are a much easier install, if I were at your power level I would step up to the full bush. Just go ahead and get it done right the first time. I've been using Pedders cradle inserts for a couple years now and they've worked just fine for me but I'm only at about 415 rwhp.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:07 AM   #28
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Yeah at more then 450 hp do full pedders or Whiteline bushing.
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