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Old 11-27-2013, 03:44 PM   #26
TBone
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LS3,

You have a Bis @ss cam and you're worried about noise??

Look, get the full Pedders bushings Kit from JDP and be done with it. You will not be sorry.

If I knew you were looking for a toe rod I could have helped you out.

T.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #27
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ADM Performance has a solid bushing as well. It hasn't been around as much but looks to be a nice piece and priced decently. Just an option to look into. He quoted me the full cradle bushing plus upper control arm bushings installed for about the price of a set of Pfadt full bushing.
http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258


Although inserts are a much easier install, if I were at your power level I would step up to the full bush. Just go ahead and get it done right the first time. I've been using Pedders cradle inserts for a couple years now and they've worked just fine for me but I'm only at about 415 rwhp.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:07 AM   #28
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Yeah at more then 450 hp do full pedders or Whiteline bushing.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
ADM Performance has a solid bushing as well. It hasn't been around as much but looks to be a nice piece and priced decently. Just an option to look into. He quoted me the full cradle bushing plus upper control arm bushings installed for about the price of a set of Pfadt full bushing.
http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258


Although inserts are a much easier install, if I were at your power level I would step up to the full bush. Just go ahead and get it done right the first time. I've been using Pedders cradle inserts for a couple years now and they've worked just fine for me but I'm only at about 415 rwhp.
But the Pfadt's are orange...
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:09 AM   #30
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I know the adm billet subframe bushings are high quality and precision machined. They are also have a black anodized finish. The adm website pics are just the reference pics. I have these with the rear upper arm carbon fiber composite mounts. Many guys in dfw that frequently visit adm performance seem to all upgrade to these. Many local drag racers i run with all have these in there cars and love them. Keeps rear end solid and keeps wheels straight under acceleration. I have seen the rear wheels flex forward on the dyno with high horsepower cars. About 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. That puts a bad toe in and puts a severe bind on your car during acceleration. The combination of the two really keep it straight. If you already have some arms you will have a killer setup. Straight launches and no wheelhop.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBone View Post
LS3,

You have a Bis @ss cam and you're worried about noise??

Look, get the full Pedders bushings Kit from JDP and be done with it. You will not be sorry.

If I knew you were looking for a toe rod I could have helped you out.

T.

Damn, I wish I had known! lol my Cam actually isn't big, it's a little on the smaller side, it's the Heads that got me close to 500rwhp But I get your point!
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokum View Post
I know the adm billet subframe bushings are high quality and precision machined. They are also have a black anodized finish. The adm website pics are just the reference pics. I have these with the rear upper arm carbon fiber composite mounts. Many guys in dfw that frequently visit adm performance seem to all upgrade to these. Many local drag racers i run with all have these in there cars and love them. Keeps rear end solid and keeps wheels straight under acceleration. I have seen the rear wheels flex forward on the dyno with high horsepower cars. About 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. That puts a bad toe in and puts a severe bind on your car during acceleration. The combination of the two really keep it straight. If you already have some arms you will have a killer setup. Straight launches and no wheelhop.
Yep!!! I will probably have these on my car someday. Just juggling where my mod money goes.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:12 PM   #33
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I would go with the solid subframe bushing sets. This will allow no movement at the anchor point, unlike polyurethane that still moves and delrin that has a limited life. Remember every single IRS Corvette that GM produced has solid anchor points for the cradle front and rear.

Pfadt Solid Subframe bushings in action with a ton of other Pfadt suspension pieces and Pfadt Race Engineering 4-1 2" Primary LT Headers
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:57 PM   #34
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What is the difference in the install of the full bush vs inserts?
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:03 PM   #35
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What is the difference in the install of the full bush vs inserts?
Inserts you just drop into the OEM bushings, install takes however long it takes you to drop the cradle.

Full inserts you have to drop the cradle and then drill out the OEM bushings.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #36
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Inserts you just drop into the OEM bushings, install takes however long it takes you to drop the cradle.

Full inserts you have to drop the cradle and then drill out the OEM bushings.
Thanks for the claification, sounds like the full bushes are the way to go, long as you have the cradle down might as well go the rest of the way. Especially when the 1le permagrin package comes with them.

On my list of mods.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:43 PM   #37
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Thanks for the claification, sounds like the full bushes are the way to go, long as you have the cradle down might as well go the rest of the way. Especially when the 1le permagrin package comes with them.

On my list of mods.
They cost twice as much also then inserts but are worth it if hp is alot. For auto x at stock hp levels inserts work fine, you have to be able to tell if one or the other got you .100 better. I sure couldnt!
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:44 PM   #38
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Doing cradle bushings is easy, just takes a little time. Its easy people. I done it on jack stands in the driveway with one jack.
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:24 PM   #39
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I was able to install the cradle inserts without even fully dropping the cradle, and that was with jackstands in the garage. There's no way I'd have been able to keep the cradle attached for the full bushings...
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #40
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I didn't fully drop mine either for the full bushings. One jack, a Lowes propane torch and hand tools.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #41
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If it's worth anything, go with the full sub-frame bushings. The price of the bushings is pricey, but at the end of the day, it's well worth it and you don't want to end up doing the job twice if you end up doing it down the road. I just did mine a few days ago and following the Pfadt directions with a few differences, it took a little more than 4-5 hours. Besides doing it on the ground I cut the inner metal bushings and beat the hell out of them until they came out. Not saying a torch and jack won't do the job, but I didn't research any other way of doing it.

For myself, I removed the exhaust, disconnected the driveshaft, disconnected the strut from the control arm, pulled the four 24mm bolts that hold the cradle up and everything dropped. Dropping the cradle and getting the bushings out are the worst part of doing the job. After that putting it all back together takes less than half the time of getting it out. It would also be a good time to do anything else you need to do while it's down.
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:28 AM   #42
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I didn't undo the drive shaft.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:35 AM   #43
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I have a one piece driveshaft, so I had no choice. I also took our the entire cradle for more room.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:17 PM   #44
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What would you all recommend for a v6? I was leaning towards inserts.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:23 PM   #45
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What would you all recommend for a v6? I was leaning towards inserts.
You could go that route, but as others have stated, if you already went through the trouble of dropping the cradle, you might as well go all the way.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #46
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You could go that route, but as others have stated, if you already went through the trouble of dropping the cradle, you might as well go all the way.
True, this is the second time I dropped the cradle. Doing it the second time sucked just as much as the first. The only difference is, the second time I knew how to approach it.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #47
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You could go that route, but as others have stated, if you already went through the trouble of dropping the cradle, you might as well go all the way.
True, just wasn't sure if getting the actual bushings would be a waste since I am not putting out that much power to the wheels.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:24 PM   #48
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Aluminum subframe bushings ok on the street? Will they wear out at all?
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #49
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Aluminum subframe bushings ok on the street? Will they wear out at all?
Fine. Nope.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:35 PM   #50
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True, just wasn't sure if getting the actual bushings would be a waste since I am not putting out that much power to the wheels.
Pedder's inserts are a great improvement on the V6 kj- both before and after I went IPF.

They really unify the rearend with the rest of the car and are a much easier install than the full bushing, IMHO. They are all you need and definitely worth the trouble.
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