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Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 01-28-2014, 04:25 PM   #1
greg_tolson
 
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misfire happening in my camaro

I have a 2011 v6 camaro with a K&N typhoon cold air intake and an MRT v2 exhaust. I currently have 37,500 miles and had a fuel injection cleaning 2 months ago. In late november my car had a misfire while I was driving on the highway. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't figure out the problem and just flipped off the CEL and checked all the plugs.

This afternoon my car had the same issue right after I started the car (15 degrees F outside). I restarted the car and the CEL light just stayed on. I was able to drive home with no issues and it felt fine (I set up an appointment with a different dealer on Friday afternoon)

I am wondering does my cold air intake have anything to do with this? The MAF is installed and doesn't look like any wires are loose. Does the cold air have anything in conjunction with the cold air intake affect any readings? Was hoping someone could help me out.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:46 PM   #2
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A lot of V6s have been having issues with winter blend gas. Run a couple cans of gas treatment. Just use a quality treatment like the GM or Royal Purple type.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:58 AM   #3
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A lot of V6s have been having issues with winter blend gas. Run a couple cans of gas treatment. Just use a quality treatment like the GM or Royal Purple type.
^^This^^
I had misfires also at 17 deg. cold starts, had to run dry gas and fuel treatment and it cured it, although still a rough start when cold out.
That was 4 yrs ago.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:16 AM   #4
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Just came back from my local Chevy dealership picking up a 2014 PCV. There were 4 V6 camaros in the bays getting serviced for misfires. Parts manager said since November they have been at least 2 or 3 a week for fuel treatment and upper induction cleanings. He said most respond to the fuel treatment when done on two consecutive fillups. They seem to believe it is a combination of the winter grade fuel being processed and the extreme cold. Funny it seems to be more prevalent to the V6 LLT and LFX ???
Anyway it surely is good biz for the dealership.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:04 PM   #5
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Does the GM upper induction cleaning work well? Is it as good as seafoaming your engine?
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:24 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help, I'll try filling in some fuel treatment this afternoon (does sunoco carry the good brands?) Also to go in depth on my last visit to the dealer back in late Novemeber. I remember they moved the coil packs around to test and see if the coil that was in the misfired cylinder would misfire in another cylinder which it didn't. So a bad coil had been ruled out; they also made sure the rest of the coils were connected properly.I had the fuel injection cleaning literally 1-2 weeks before this problem happened which I paid 120$ for, not sure how good GM's fuel injection cleanings are (I was in getting only an oil change and I was an indiot and said sure to the fuel injection cleaning).I have started my car in weather that was in the single digits (probably 2 weeks ago) and it was fine. It's weird it happened when it was only 15 degrees out.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:21 PM   #7
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Does the GM upper induction cleaning work well? Is it as good as seafoaming your engine?

Depends on who does it. I have seem some dealerships take apart the IM to clean. Then I have seen them just ingest by the break booster vacuum. A good seafoam should include brake booster and insert though the IM inlet to get all cylinders.
Best is to start with a seafoam and royal purple type gas treatment.
If no improvement after a few tanks fulls. Move on to a IM removal and cleaning by you or dealer.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:08 AM   #8
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Somehow the intakes hang up in the extreme cold.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:22 PM   #9
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Catch Can, Catch Can, Catch Can. BTW you don't need to remove the whole intake manifold to clean it, you can take the cover off. I know people will say take it to the dealer for a "Top End Cleaning", that's a couple hundred bucks. I take the cover off and wipe down the inside, I have a catch can so it's not so oily any more. I also spray Sea Foam down the intake ports, not much just a few sprays each with the straw, let it sit as I wipe out the manifold. Put it back together, then do the Sea Foam as directed on the can. Aerosol Sea Foam, there are two kinds. I use STP for the engine oil just before I change the oil, it's way cheaper than liquid Sea Foam. EAZY PEAZY!
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:28 AM   #10
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Well the dealer threw in a new spark plug for the cylinder that misfired (cylinder 1). A week later I had the misfire at cold start again (in the past two gas fill ups ive been putting in gas treatment). The car runs so smooth when its warmed up (or when I start it in my semi warm garage) but it keeps misfiring when I leave it outside (constantly been under 30F here) for extended periods of time. When I turn it on itll rev above 1 rpm like it always does but as it makes the transition when its warmed up thats when it misfires. I also have noticed the car will sometimes start roughlly with like a pop sound or itll rev much higher than 1 rpm for a few seconds and then come back down. I took it back to the dealer and they let it sit out over night outside and are starting it this morning to hopefully find the source. Another weird symptom I've gotten from the car probably within the past 6 months or so is when my car shifts (either between 3-4 gear or 4-5 gear cant remember) itll sometimes down shift really quickly then upshift twice (i have an automatic). anyone have something weird like that happen to them once in a while?
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:47 AM   #11
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What you are seeing, misfires during cold start at cold temperatures seems to be a problem effecting many v6 and v8. Dealers are blaming the winter fuel blend, possible oil ingestion through intake manifold and of course really cold temperatures. Was -11f this morning but I did not even attempt to start the camaro. Honestly I don't think they will really find any problems. Changing plugs is not the answer these plugs are really bullet proof.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:06 AM   #12
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-14 degrees coolant temp. is when alot of the computer control systems switch on. They ramp up from there slowly becoming more aggressive with coolant temp raise. Probably just a hiccup because of the cold temps.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_tolson View Post
Well the dealer threw in a new spark plug for the cylinder that misfired (cylinder 1). A week later I had the misfire at cold start again (in the past two gas fill ups ive been putting in gas treatment). The car runs so smooth when its warmed up (or when I start it in my semi warm garage) but it keeps misfiring when I leave it outside (constantly been under 30F here) for extended periods of time. When I turn it on itll rev above 1 rpm like it always does but as it makes the transition when its warmed up thats when it misfires. I also have noticed the car will sometimes start roughlly with like a pop sound or itll rev much higher than 1 rpm for a few seconds and then come back down. I took it back to the dealer and they let it sit out over night outside and are starting it this morning to hopefully find the source. Another weird symptom I've gotten from the car probably within the past 6 months or so is when my car shifts (either between 3-4 gear or 4-5 gear cant remember) itll sometimes down shift really quickly then upshift twice (i have an automatic). anyone have something weird like that happen to them once in a while?
Check your speedometer reading and approximate pedal position when the problem occurs. Probably in the 30-60 mile per hour range going up a slight grade with less than 40 percent throttle. Sounds like the torque converter clutch is locking up and you are feeling it. I have it tuned out in my transmission at the expense of a little gas mileage. Since I have a transmission tune the converter is set to lock up more aggressively and it annoyed me. It felt like a 4-3 downshift when it locked up. I just set the lock up speeds a litter higher to tune it out......Probably operating the way it is supposed to.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:40 AM   #14
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:48 AM   #15
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Must be a combination of no computer control below -14 degrees coolant temperature and winter gas...Just my opinion.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:17 PM   #16
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Had a CEL last month, codes was for misfires, had a different brand of gas then what I normally use and was cold out. Cleared the light and filled up with my normal brand, problem now is I can't pass my emissions. The following show NOT READY: EVAP System, O2 Sensor, and O2 Sensor Heater. Have no Codes and did the GM Drive Cycle, checked it after 130 miles and still have the Not Ready's. Will try some fuel treatment and see if that will help. Currently using the Trifecta tune.
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:57 AM   #17
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Had a CEL last month, codes was for misfires, had a different brand of gas then what I normally use and was cold out. Cleared the light and filled up with my normal brand, problem now is I can't pass my emissions. The following show NOT READY: EVAP System, O2 Sensor, and O2 Sensor Heater. Have no Codes and did the GM Drive Cycle, checked it after 130 miles and still have the Not Ready's. Will try some fuel treatment and see if that will help. Currently using the Trifecta tune.
I think the trifecta tune turns off the rear o2 sensor. I would reload the stock tune for emissions test.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:52 AM   #18
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Problem is getting the tests to enable when it's below freezing on start. This could be why you are not running the tests. Look at the GM drive cycle to enable and I think you will see the air and coolant temps are not allowing the tests to run.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:54 AM   #19
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this happened when I was low on oil (cause it leaked out so slowly that I never noticed) AND when I had to replace my catalytic converter. good luck bro!
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:00 AM   #20
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Just got the diagnosis from the dealer. Since my vehicle is Direct Injection the valves in the injectors are never cleaned from the gas since it never passes through them to wash the carbon away (this is how DI vehicles work). The carbon had built up and kept causing my cylinder 1 to misfire (which they figured out since the movement of plugs/coils werent transmitting the misfire to other cylinders). They said the extreme cold would get the carbon stuck in the valve seats which would cause the misfire at cold starts. They recommend to me I use top teir fuel which btw I have been using ever since I've owned the vehicle (I'm a second owner after a year it was first bought, maybe the first owner used awful gas?), I generally go to shell or sunocco never those cheap-o places. I did use 87 octane for one year on the vehicle and swithced to 93 last year (Grade wouldn't be a factor right?). They also recommend that I use GM high quality fuel treatment every oil change. I have gone around the forum pages with this issue and have seen people write about this. They all talk about catch cans as a major limiting factor. Is a catch can really the best way to limit this issue?
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:12 PM   #21
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I had the same problem. Best advice is what they have told you plus a catch can. You can decide the best can since there are a lot of them out there. I currently running a mightymouse can because of my IPF SC. I was running a saikou Michi http://www.saikoumichi.com/ catch can before and I believe their catch configuration is the most efficient.
The real problem seems to be the combination of carbon build up and extreme cold weather causing this. The local dealership has had at least 2 LLT camaro, Cadillac cts, traverse a week for this issue. They are doing a upper induction cleaning (GM seafoam) and two treatments of fuel treatment.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:15 AM   #22
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That is what they did to clean it out. They said my exhaust would smell for only a day or two. I asked the dealer their thoughts on the catch can and they told me that if im not racing the vehicle I dont need it. From the numerous stories I've read on here I've seen the oil build up people have in their catch cans and they are daily drivers like me. They made it seem like this dirty carbon build up could be a once in a while clean I'll have to maintain. They consider this problem not covered under the power train warranty yet there is nothing I do to the vehicle to cause this problem, i've always gone top tier gas stations. Since almost all cars are DI have you heard any of them getting issues like this at 38,000 miles?
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #23
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38k is pretty low but again at least at my local dealership there are 2013's coming in for this service. I still pretty much believe that the weather is making the problem worse and showing up quicker. But never the less the oil being ingested is still an issue that sooner or later would need to be addressed in service. As GM states it not covered under drive train so the customer eats it as routine service for DI outside of bumper to bumper mileage coverage.
The cost of a catch can is well worth it. But get one that is recommended and allows ease of access when mounted since it needs to be emptied at least once every oil change, an in colder weather a few more time depending on size of can.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:03 AM   #24
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Had the CEL come on as i was on the highway last week. Didnt notice any sign of misfire, the light just came on and stayed on. Took it in and it drew the code P0430 which is catalytic converter issues. Getting the catalytic converter replaced on Friday which is covered on the 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Was told the constant misfires made my cat go bad. I really hope this is the end of my constant CEL coming on.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:07 AM   #25
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Had the CEL come on as i was on the highway last week. Didnt notice any sign of misfire, the light just came on and stayed on. Took it in and it drew the code P0430 which is catalytic converter issues. Getting the catalytic converter replaced on Friday which is covered on the 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Was told the constant misfires made my cat go bad. I really hope this is the end of my constant CEL coming on.
Have them clean the MAF also.
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