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Forced Induction - V8 V8 Supercharger, turbo, nitrous discussions

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Old 12-27-2013, 02:52 PM   #1
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Cost of Turbo vs. Super?

Hi everyone,

Have been looking around, and have seen a few threads saying S/Cs typically cost less than Turbos.

From a quick scan of different mods sites, I see turbo kits like Turbonetics for <$6K, and bunch of S/C kits (maggie, whipple) for ~$7.5K. Am I missing some piece of the cost? Guessing it costs more to install / maintain a turbo?

If anyone has any real numbers to compare would be much appreciated.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #2
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I don’t have numbers, but the centrifugal SCs like IPF can be less expensive due to simpler installation compared to turbos, maggie, or whipple. Tuning a turbo, maggie, or whipple may be more complex (and expensive) than the tune included in the IPF SC. The trade-off is that power output with centrifugal SC may be lower than turbo or PD SC.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:21 PM   #3
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Install is easy, maintence is no more.

It gets to be an even bigger difference when you start to add headers, 8 ribs, pulleys, tensioners, heat exchangers, spacers, od rear kits, cold airs, etc.

As for the IPF stuff, this the v8 section, not v6 section. Not even sure they make v8 kits.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
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I have a turbonetics t76 kit and outside of the kit cost and install
You'll need a
Boost controller/boost gauge
Wide band
A pillar gauge pod


I'd suggest other mods (same as sc cars) would be suspension work. You don't want to add all that power with out beefing up the suspension
I added
Trailing arms
Toe links
11 inch rims
Subframe bushings


With a sc set up you'll most likely add a cold air intake and headers my turbo kit uses stock manifolds and utilizes the stock parts for the air intake. I used a cold air inductions filter instead. Headers can be expensive too. One of my favorite features of the turbo is I can crank up the power for the situation I'm in with the boost controller.

Either way keep in mind once you add any forced induction the game changes and the car becomes a money Pitt good luck

Either way you go think out your supporting mods. Pm me if you have any turbo questions
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:29 PM   #5
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I'm all about the supporting mods at this point. I didn't listen, again, and went turbo and now my car can not put the power to the road. Sure 60 MPH burn outs are fun and impressive, but a car with 620 RWHP that still runs 12 second 1/4 mile times is hardly worth the expense.
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:00 AM   #6
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The bottom line for cost is how much power do you want to make. It is much more expensive to go up in small steps than to make big changes. Like everyone else has commented, it is not so much the cost of the turbo or supercharger but the cost of the exhaust and intake mods and all the cooling changes and fuel pumps and injectors and clutches, blocks, rods and pistons....

I personally think the superchargers are a little less money for moderate horsepower gains. If you want big power (more than 750 whp) it would probably be cheaper to start straight out with the turbos.
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partymn View Post
I'm all about the supporting mods at this point. I didn't listen, again, and went turbo and now my car can not put the power to the road. Sure 60 MPH burn outs are fun and impressive, but a car with 620 RWHP that still runs 12 second 1/4 mile times is hardly worth the expense.
Im afraid even with suspension your not going to get great times with a turbo and a clutch.Give me a call and ill give you some tips on rear alignment the will get you headed in the right direction.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by partymn View Post
I'm all about the supporting mods at this point. I didn't listen, again, and went turbo and now my car can not put the power to the road. Sure 60 MPH burn outs are fun and impressive, but a car with 620 RWHP that still runs 12 second 1/4 mile times is hardly worth the expense.
Are you on drag radials? If you want respectable 1/4 mile times you have got to switch to a drag tire or you will NEVER get the car to hook.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:09 PM   #9
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AGP base kit for a manual is $7500 and we include shipping. includes everything needed for install, if you want to add gauges or a boost controller you easily can for not much more. Install is roughly 10-12 hours.
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:20 PM   #10
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OP Twin turbo kits are the ones that you hear of that are more than a supercharger. Superchargers catch up quick in price though when you need supporting mods to make the same power as bolting on a turbo kit.
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:17 AM   #11
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Either way it gets pricy. Figure out your goals and go that direction. Like it's said, " you gotta pay to play"!
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partymn View Post
I'm all about the supporting mods at this point. I didn't listen, again, and went turbo and now my car can not put the power to the road. Sure 60 MPH burn outs are fun and impressive, but a car with 620 RWHP that still runs 12 second 1/4 mile times is hardly worth the expense.
See this a lot.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:11 AM   #13
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600-650 isn't that hard to hook. Tires and maybe some bushings do wonders. Tires alone will hook 600rwhp. It amazes me how many people try to go fast on stock tires/wheels.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:25 AM   #14
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600-650 isn't that hard to hook. Tires and maybe some bushings do wonders. Tires alone will hook 600rwhp. It amazes me how many people try to go fast on stock tires/wheels.

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Old 01-03-2014, 10:47 AM   #15
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It just amazes me that people dump $10k to make 700rwhp then run stock tires. I ran against a ECS blown Camaro in my basically stock 2012 mustang and killed it every time because he was on stock tires. Sad to spend $10k and lose to a mustang with a $200 intake. For the love of god, buy tires if you are going forced induction.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:55 AM   #16
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It just amazes me that people dump $10k to make 700rwhp then run stock tires. I ran against a ECS blown Camaro in my basically stock 2012 mustang and killed it every time because he was on stock tires. Sad to spend $10k and lose to a mustang with a $200 intake. For the love of god, buy tires if you are going forced induction.
Haha I think I know what car you are talking about too. Drag radials are one of the first things I buy when modding.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:50 PM   #17
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600-650 isn't that hard to hook. Tires and maybe some bushings do wonders. Tires alone will hook 600rwhp. It amazes me how many people try to go fast on stock tires/wheels.
this, I put bushings and a good tire and wheel and my car hooks just fine.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
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It just amazes me that people dump $10k to make 700rwhp then run stock tires. I ran against a ECS blown Camaro in my basically stock 2012 mustang and killed it every time because he was on stock tires. Sad to spend $10k and lose to a mustang with a $200 intake. For the love of god, buy tires if you are going forced induction.
Very true.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:45 PM   #19
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i have 315 rears on my car and still will not hook up either. until I upgrade the axles though, that's ok with me...once boost comes in its a handful (of fun lol)
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
It just amazes me that people dump $10k to make 700rwhp then run stock tires. I ran against a ECS blown Camaro in my basically stock 2012 mustang and killed it every time because he was on stock tires. Sad to spend $10k and lose to a mustang with a $200 intake. For the love of god, buy tires if you are going forced induction.
So true, I started drag racing my car on the test and tune nights just because there is strip 5 miles from my house. I learned very quickly that a drag radial was good for more than 1 full second on a high horsepower car. I have had my car at the road racing venues on both the stock tires and the racing tires. Night and day difference, about 12 seconds a lap on my track because you can carry so much more speed through the corners, and brake later. If you actually pair up against a good car with a performance tire and you are running street tires, you will get spanked even though you have 100+ more horsepower.

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i have 315 rears on my car and still will not hook up either. until I upgrade the axles though, that's ok with me...once boost comes in its a handful (of fun lol)
It sounds like you have a 315 street tire. If you put any drag radial on the car it may spin a little but not much. If you are in a racing environment where you need the car to hook up, you need a drag tire. You can buy a drag radial that is dot legal. It will go straight ahead great but he sidewall is too soft for good cornering. If you run for time, you need an appropriate racing grade tire, period.
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:41 PM   #21
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A 275 or even a 255 drag radial will outperform a 315-345 street tire.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:34 PM   #22
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A 275 or even a 255 drag radial will outperform a 315-345 street tire.
Absolutely, it's all about the rubber compound.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:45 PM   #23
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Front mount 600hp is easier to hook than 600hp top mount or turbo.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:23 PM   #24
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Front mount 600hp is easier to hook than 600hp top mount or turbo.
Depends on the turbo and boost controller. Turbo has the easiest boost control and you can make 450rwhp to 30mph, then 550 to 45mph, then 650-700 from 65+ or setup a boost controller for whatever you want. That is much easier to hook than full 600+ all the time. So saying front mount (centri?) is easier to hook is a bit too simple of a statement. You could have a turbo act just like a centri if you wanted with a boost controller.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:55 PM   #25
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Front mount 600hp is easier to hook than 600hp top mount or turbo.
A would agree and the turbo boost controller does affect it but it is mainly a function of the the top and turbo systems making a lot more torque at the bottom half of the rpm range.
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