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Old 01-22-2014, 06:09 PM   #26
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Clint you are amazing ! Even the guys at my dealership were stumped and had to call GM. Hope you enjoying Texas !
Remember, I am the GM Wholesale District Parts Manager for South Texas, I have access to catalogs...
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:33 PM   #27
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Didn't have to wait for a trip down the drag strip, I need 2 catch cans. Took off the intake tube pipe in front of the supercharger inlet and a pool of oil in the supercharger inlet. Going to see about ordering a dual check valve can from elite engineering. Too bad this is going to cut into the funds for my wife's driveshaft, she needs that to beat up some Camaro V6's that talk crap but don't show up at the track.

Going to draw up a schematic of how I'm going to do the final setup, will post it tonight.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:17 PM   #28
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Didn't have to wait for a trip down the drag strip, I need 2 catch cans. Took off the intake tube pipe in front of the supercharger inlet and a pool of oil in the supercharger inlet. Going to see about ordering a dual check valve can from elite engineering. Too bad this is going to cut into the funds for my wife's driveshaft, she needs that to beat up some Camaro V6's that talk crap but don't show up at the track.

Going to draw up a schematic of how I'm going to do the final setup, will post it tonight.
Looking forward to it. I actually got a couple 1/2" fittings with no check valves , just use one for the intake manifold. Then two regular fittings for the fresh line and dirty line.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:23 PM   #29
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Here is another one of my crappy drawings. Its hard to draw on this Surface, but its a nice little feature. The problem I have with my current setup is that the vacuum is so strong from the supercharger I'm drawing oil straight out of the clean side tube. Going to try this setup when I can.

This setup uses 2 Elite Engineering V2 catch cans. One is a single check valve output, the other is a dual check valve output. The dual one will go on the passenger side, the inlet (top of the can) goes to the passenger side valve cover. 1 of the outlets goes to the intake manifold, the other goes to the intake tube in front of the supercharger.

The single check valve catch can will go on the drivers side. The inlet connects to the drivers side valve cover, the outlet goes to the intake tube in front of the supercharger. This side will require 2 T connectors and a second check valve. The line that goes from the valve cover will branch off, one line going to the catch can, the second going to a check valve that doesn't allow air to the intake tube. These 2 lines will reconnect to each other after the catch can and check valve. Then the line will connect to the dirty side line and to the intake tube.

When the intake manifold is under vacuum, the air will go from the intake tube, bypass the catch can and into the crankcase. The dirty air will then go through the catch can and into the intake manifold. The dual check valve will prevent air from bypassing the crankcase being sucked in from the intake tube straight to the intake manifold.

During boost the crankcase will vent through both catch cans and into the intake tube.

I'm going to have to ask Elite Engineering how their can will work with reverse flow, that will eliminate having to try to find T connectors and a check valve.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:50 PM   #30
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Do yourself a favor and look into a 1LE separator instead of the clean side can. This is what it's made for.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:26 PM   #31
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here is a pdf of my current setup. the line from the sc intake is still attached to the ipf can for now. reverse flow. seems to be working
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:30 AM   #32
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here is a pdf of my current setup. the line from the sc intake is still attached to the ipf can for now. reverse flow. seems to be working
Hey skycraft on your schamadic you have you your passger side going to your intake inlet , do you aslo have a t connecter tied in to your Ipf can aswell ?

( oh and welcome to Texas )
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:54 AM   #33
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All this mentioned of metered. What oriface size are you using?
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:09 AM   #34
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All this mentioned of metered. What oriface size are you using?

I use the word metered air as I am keeping my PCV system close loop as is oem. There are no breathers in the system bringing in air that has not been input by the MAF. Bringing in extra air not metered by the MAF can cause unstable idle and other performance problems.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #35
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Going to do some testing but there may need to be a way to vent the passenger side valve cover under boost. I changed my spark plugs last night and found traces of oil on the passenger side ones. Don't know if its from oil ingestion or oil is seeping through the seals under boost.

Going to temp install the IPF can on the clean side in the engine bay to prevent condensation. I think the last setup I drew would be best but is expensive. Especially since I want to do all braided and AN fittings. Make the engine bay look good since idiots at car shows think the Centri supercharger is an A/C unit.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:44 AM   #36
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Hey guys, this is news to me. I will look into possibly redesigning the catch can, there are hundreds of these kits installed world wide and seems to be a pretty small number of complaints. I will gladly look into it though.

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Old 01-23-2014, 11:11 AM   #37
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Andy, the can supplied with the system offer very little area between the input ports and vacuum for oil mist to be caught. I still believe the Saikou Michi offer the best in can setup and the APEX is also good. But it is still the PCV routing that is also cause the issue that we see. A return to an oem setup where we draw metered air after the MAF into the driver side valve cover and provide vacuum to the passenger side valve cover under normal running using induction vacuum and new air input tube vacuum during WOT.
This type setup seems to have benefits to both the tune and elimination of the excess moisture being caught.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #38
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Nutt, when do you expect to get your separator?

I hope to get mine tomorrow.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:48 AM   #39
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For some reason my IPF can was full of water after 4 days of driving, every day after work I would look under the car to see where the line was. It gets old after a while, especially when the temps drop down below freezing. I also got the new catch can to fix the stalling problems I was having.

I looked at getting a 1LE separator but after looking at quite a few logs, I think I found the reason for my high knock retard suddenly. The log before my current PCV setup had no knock retard until 6000 RPM's, after it started at 2500 RPM's. The passenger side needs to be under vacuum just like the driver side it looks like. I need to order a dual check valve can anyways, so I will use the single can on the drivers side. Going to be fun ordering all the AN parts from JEGS.
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:51 PM   #40
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If you are going to supply vacuum to both valve cover sides and have a can on each side the PCV flow direction will oscillate from passenger side to drivers side depending on which side has a higher vacuum level and one of the cans will be in reverse flow all the time. If both vacuums are about the same level wouldn't there be no evacuation taking place ?
Got to say this is a great conversation !
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:02 PM   #41
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Nutt, when do you expect to get your separator?

I hope to get mine tomorrow.

Got mine in ! Problem is my upper induction elbow to generate the vacuum was broken when I installed the IPF system. The vacuum line with elbow and 2 seals are on order and should be here this weekend.
The weather here is not cooperating as it's 5F today and my garage heater is not working. I'll try and get in my buddies garage to make the mod.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:06 PM   #42
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Pics of GM separator need to be uploaded
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:13 PM   #43
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magnum, I agree about the location of the IPF can being down by the front tire. too low and moisture can settle/collect easy. Maybe mounting them about valve cover height can do some help?
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:21 PM   #44
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Has anyone taken the oil fill extension from the valve cover off ? Is there an o-ring on the valve cover side to prevent any air or oil leaks ? Just looked at another and it rotated some and looked like it was weeping oil from the connection to the valve cover ?
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #45
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If you are going to supply vacuum to both valve cover sides and have a can on each side the PCV flow direction will oscillate from passenger side to drivers side depending on which side has a higher vacuum level and one of the cans will be in reverse flow all the time. If both vacuums are about the same level wouldn't there be no evacuation taking place ?
Got to say this is a great conversation !
It will actually work just like the stock IPF setup, both sides going to one can and being under vacuum. The stock setup actually worked well during boost, but just allowed too much oil/water through.

The setup I'm going with will do the same with 2 cans. Both cans have check valves on the exit ports so the can will never flow in the reverse direction. Right now I plan on having both sides combine into 1 line before the intake tube. I have no clue what would be involved in getting a 1/4" NPT installed on the intake tube. I think in theory this will provide equal vacuum. If not at least it will allow the crankcase to vent.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:46 PM   #46
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Is the can you have vented out to relieve pressure or is the breather used to draw in fresh air ? I like the PCV valve better than any check valves !
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:28 PM   #47
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It's easy to get caught up in the pcv madness, and over-complicate the system.

I make some stuff i'm pretty proud of after learning how all this plays out on my own cars for the last 10 years or so. I use a real metal pcv valve *gasp* and no in-line checks.

am i correct that the primary concern in this thread is oil consumption or is it keeping boost out of the crank case?

Here is a link to my current instructions, everyone does it differently so in general a bad idea to use one guys can with another guys instructions, but food for thought.

http://media.wix.com/ugd/dddf24_f788...569c78447d.pdf
My original goal was to stop the stalling the car was having when coming to a stop. The IPF system deleted the PCV hose going to the intake manifold. For some reason my engine did not like that and would stall out from a lack of air. I installed an Elite Engineering can with a single check valve to prevent boost from going into the crankcase, but my fresh air line is pushing oil out at high RPM's. I also believe my passenger side valve cover is building up pressure and causing a false knock to happen, lowering my power which I need at the drag strip. My goal is now to install a second catch can, one that will constantly vacuum the passenger side valve cover, the 2nd will only vent the drivers side under boost. When not in boost the driver side will bypass the catch can and supply fresh air from the intake tube to the crank case.

I know I could just vent to atmosphere, but I want to put a vacuum on the crankcase during boost on both sides.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:09 PM   #48
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It's easy to get caught up in the pcv madness, and over-complicate the system.

I make some stuff i'm pretty proud of after learning how all this plays out on my own cars for the last 10 years or so. I use a real metal pcv valve *gasp* and no in-line checks.

am i correct that the primary concern in this thread is oil consumption or is it keeping boost out of the crank case?

Here is a link to my current instructions, everyone does it differently so in general a bad idea to use one guys can with another guys instructions, but food for thought.

http://media.wix.com/ugd/dddf24_f788...569c78447d.pdf
I think it might be different things for different ppl. For me it would be oil consumption mainly because of the propensity of these LLT motors to eat up oil.

I personally found the RX CC to not only be ineffective but exasperate the problem. My IM had oil pooled up inside. And in talking to other RX'd™ FI customers they were having the same issues as me.

With my current system that is what was supplied by IPF, I find that I have to empty my CC ever two-three weeks depending how much the car is driven. What is drained is a watery mocha looking fluid. That said I've been running this system for 14 mos and over 14k miles.

We've been bombarded with a lot of copy and paste info by a self appointed guru who's no longer allowed to post here. But to me it seems he was simply trying to create a need, so he could sell his catchcans.

I'm open to improving my setup with a product that is simple and is backed by science.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:49 PM   #49
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Well shoot. MO is a ways away.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:51 PM   #50
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If anyone or anyone you know from this forum is near Richmond VA I would like to do an install of one of my new black series cans so that I can my head around any nuances with this layout vs. the other lsx stuff. They look like this.

Wish I was close. By the way thanks for the help on the can and Facebook plug (TW)


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