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Old 01-23-2014, 07:03 PM   #51
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Quote:
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If anyone or anyone you know from this forum is near Richmond VA I would like to do an install of one of my new black series cans so that I can my head around any nuances with this layout vs. the other lsx stuff. They look like this.




If you don't get anyone by the time I install mine(warmer weather) I'll take a trip down there to try it out
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:07 PM   #52
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This thread has me a bit worried about the install of the ipf s/c. I don't want to harm the engine by doing the wrong setup and don't have a lot of expendable cash to throw at it if I get the wrong catch can and need a different one. Gotta dust off that piggy bank and start saving.

I appreciate you all working this out bc it helps us(me) who may not understand as much to do the right thing. I am mechanically inclined but FI is a whole new game to me

Long winded thank you
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:04 PM   #53
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HeritageLS,

As mentioned before, the IPF system is a quality system, but the PCV design may leave a bit to be desired for some out there. That said, I don't think this is going to kill your car, and hopefully by the time you get your kit installed we will have come up with an even better PCV system, or maybe IPF will improve their existing setup.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:07 AM   #54
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Its all about personal preference and improving on an already great initial design. I have the Mightymouse can on my car now, and run evac in reverse through the motor, I do not think that is a problem as long as there is fresh airflow. Anyone know anything different please post up. The reason I do not vent back into the inlet is due to the possibility of pressure exceeding the evac lines capacity, thereby causing seal blowby. I have 2 breathers that will not allow any fresh air into the metered air system but will allow Any and ALL positive pressure to escape, protecting my seals. A wise man stated this to me:" I know lots of people are used to the way the X brand can works, and in short, mine works different. if you close the system you effectively limit how much blow by the system can handle. and the X brand can with its single (Dual) line still leaves people having trouble with blow-by." he also states this "by the way, don't ever let anyone convince you to put scotchbrite in the air path of your engine. take some , rub it together, and you will find abrasive dust pile below it." So take it for its worth, we all are on the forefront of making these engines last and perform way beyond their intended capabilities. mine is over a year old and has more than 20k miles on the system of hard use/abuse... Thanks to IPF, Redline Motorsports, Matt Sorian of FSP for the tune, South Florida pulleys, and Mightymouse for the additional parts to make my SC last and be reliable...
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:36 PM   #55
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Ordered the dual check valve elite can from JDP today. I'm going to set it up to vacuum the passenger side under boost to test the theory that my knock retard is from that. After that I will set it up like my 3 year olds drawing.

By the time I'm done I'm hoping to get a full quarter mile run with no knock retard.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:37 PM   #56
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magnumforce good luck and cool sig!

i will throw out that normal crank pressure is not bank specific. any blowby comes down the cylinders and down straight to the pan, which is in the middle.

if you have trouble still, i have a pressure relief which simply mounts to the oil fill to immediately relieve any pressure and close under vac for stock pcv operation.
Thats what I am using currently too...
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:23 AM   #57
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I guess the question is do you need a blow off valve on both sides (valve covers) ? In most setups, drawn here and their site, the clean side drawing fresh air in shouldn't need this unless there is a check valve in the line ? Any positive pressure should vent out the fresh air line in a back flow.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:53 AM   #58
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I guess the question is do you need a blow off valve on both sides (valve covers) ? In most setups, drawn here and their site, the clean side drawing fresh air in shouldn't need this unless there is a check valve in the line ? Any positive pressure should vent out the fresh air line in a back flow.
True, buts its the amount of VOLUME that can flow through the lines... A line can only allow a certain value, then it is pressurized. have you ever seen the amount of pressure a built SC or turbo engine can produce. We may not be anywhere close to exceeding this volume, but I want to be safe. Look at Gretchens build, he has huge vent lines. I use a vent on my oil cap that fully opens if pressure is built and one on top of my can that does the same. It negates the need to route a 3 port can back to the intake as I effectively vent open to the atmosphere in a pressure situation as opposed to through a restrictive line back to the SC inlet.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:08 AM   #59
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I understand what you are saying about the pressure a sc can produce, but the 1/2 open line back to the inlet will vent quicker than the blow off valve which I would assume is only 1/2 inch. And the fresh air line is never tapped off, it is either allowing air into the engine due to vacuum or as soon as the valve cover goes into positive pressure it will push air out the IPF inlet as the pressure is not that great in the inlet after the MAF but before the sc. I can't say having a blowoff valve there isn't a good safety valve but it does seem over kill.
I can see why you have it when you are flowing air from passenger side to driver side. You have in on the vacuum side.
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Old 01-25-2014, 01:00 PM   #60
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Quote:
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Pics of GM separator need to be uploaded

Here is the RX separator for the oil filler cap with stainless mesh inside. No check valves just straight flow through. I'll be using this on the driver side to draw fresh air in from the IPF inlet after the MAF but before the sc. (Backside driver side capped).
Side, bottom, and inside cap off.

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Old 01-25-2014, 02:19 PM   #61
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That mesh doesn't look like it seperates the oil vapors. Looks like oil will carryover
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:26 PM   #62
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That mesh doesn't look like it seperates the oil vapors. Looks like oil will carryover
Good eye.....
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:01 PM   #63
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Remember this is on the clean side drawing air into the engine. Most cans that do the dirty side do the same. Only separates on shutdown or under positive pressure on the clean side which doesn't happen usually. Stock clean side has no baffle at all.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:27 AM   #64
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Going to see what happens when I get my dual can, if it helps with my knock retard. Right now I'm going to have the dual can combine with the 5/8th line right before the supercharger inlet. The IPF setup had both the 3/8th line and 5/8th line go into the single can, then the 5/8th line go to the supercharger inlet. Will see what data changes from this setup. If it goes like I think it will then I will I need to see how to get a NPT fitting installed on the supercharger tube to get the 3/8th line attached to it.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:42 AM   #65
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Magnum- You could ask Elite for 1/2" fittings to help installation of the 5/8" line to the elite fittings...granted they need a reducer but I'm going to see about that once i get my separator.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:21 PM   #66
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Once again I have to thank the members of C5 for bringing my attention to a problem.

I've smugly thought I was immune to this condensation issue because of the mild winters we enjoy here. But it has been much colder than we usually get- actually below freezing for a few hours in the morning before warming up to 50 by mid-afternoon, LOL.

So I let 2200 miles pass before I checked my catch can.

Yes it was full... of some of the most foul smelling, nasty watery crap I've ever had hit me right in the face! Geez, I could've done that a little smarter! Are you listening JohnnyB? We haven't heard from you in awhile.

Anyway thanks again and I'll continue to watch for our best solution. I'm liking this Mighty Mouse "pop-off" and some of his theories for safest airflow... But definitely relocating that catch can soon .
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:28 PM   #67
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One thing I don't miss is that smell. I stored mine in a huge container in the garage, made it smell. You may need to get your oil temp to over 220℉ to boil off any water that got in there. You may also want to check your intake.
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:24 PM   #68
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I pulled the air intake off the throttle body and both the intake line and outside of the throttle body/blade were completely clean and dry.

Gonna change the oil a little early to be on the safe side too. I think I caught it in time. It really is very dry here and I checked the catch can when the weather was still warm and had less than a couple ounces of gunk after 500 miles (same fairly thick milky gunk I'd always seen in my cc before S/C). Figured I'd be good for 2500, but live and learn.

It seems the temp change has a dramatic effect on condensation collection!
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #69
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Suppose to get my dual exit port catch can tomorrow according to FedEx. I took my single valve can off and checked the check valve, it was allowing air both ways, but it was acting like it is blocked. That would explain why my engine kept dipping lower and lower in RPM's like it was going to stall, no air coming into the intake manifold like the IPF setup.

Told JDP about it, they offered to send a new check valve but my new can I ordered also comes with AN fittings and I ordered the upgrade to my old can. Hopefully the bad valve I got was an anomaly.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:38 AM   #70
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IPF S/C PCV Fix

To be specific, my feedback was in having a blow off valve on the catch can ( which I agree is needed and I want) and a second one on the opposite side valve cover which is connected to the fresh air input. I questioned the need for a blowoff valve on the clean side.
My question is how necessary is the clean side blowoff valve if no check valve is present in this input line ?
I do have your new PCV can on order to hopefully give me a more oem type PCV setup with protection against pressure build up.
Oh, thanks for participating, your input is great !
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:52 AM   #71
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IPF S/C PCV Fix

ship it !!!!
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:40 PM   #72
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Got my dual exit catch can, going to install it tonight. Gotta wait to get fittings to install both cans at once. Going to put a male AN fitting on the intake tube so I have 2 suction points, 1 suction doesn't work for me anymore.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:40 PM   #73
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I support MM fully, I have been running his stuff for a while, glad you all are seeing the light.....
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:44 PM   #74
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Got the can and also went to O'Reilly's to get parts to do a temporary setup to ensure everything works before I get an expensive fittings.

I really need to fix up my engine bay, quite a few things have started peeling paint.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:47 PM   #75
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I have to ask, seems like a lot of plumbing on the intake? could you explain?
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