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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 07-26-2009, 05:35 PM   #1
ToddSS
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6l80 torque converter stall

Does anybody know what the stock 6l80 torque converter stall is? It seems to be real tight and was wondering if Yank or PI makes one for this tranny yet
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:39 PM   #2
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Yank SS3200 is available for the Camaro with the 6L80 tranny.
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:42 PM   #3
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I have a 3600 yank... the stock is prob. like 1800
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post
Yank SS3200 is available for the Camaro with the 6L80 tranny.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanD View Post
I have a 3600 yank... the stock is prob. like 1800
How do you like it? Is it still streetable?
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Old 07-26-2009, 06:41 PM   #5
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i have the yank ss3200, drives way better than the stock converter
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:50 AM   #6
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just yank it lol

the 3200 should still be very streetable, not sure on the 3600 would like to know as well
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:56 AM   #7
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Yank SS 3800 with 3.23s on my old car and it was great.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:07 AM   #8
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What does the torque converter (stall) actually do for the car? im noob sry
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:04 AM   #9
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Yeah explain this to me also please. If we keep the car want to know what to keep my eye on for the future.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:11 AM   #10
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Think of a torque converter like an automatic clutch. The stall speed determines when the converter will essentially lock and slip (right term?)

Say in a stock stalled Camaro you hold the brake and hit the gas. The RPMS will go to about 1700ish before it starts to spin the wheels.

In a 3200 stall converter when you hit the brakes and hit the gas the RPMS will go to about 3000 before breaking the wheels loose.

This is pretty much the automatic way to dump a clutch to launch a car. It basically starts your engine out in the powerband instead of having to climb to 2k, 2.5k ect ect. Making your 60' faster thus making your 1/4 faster.

4th gens easily knocked off .5 seconds with a conservative stall.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:32 AM   #11
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Ok that makes sence. So what would be better to get it to the speed limit faster, gears in the rear end or the torque convertor. I do not speed but do want to beat what ever comes up next to me to the speed limit.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
Ok that makes sence. So what would be better to get it to the speed limit faster, gears in the rear end or the torque convertor. I do not speed but do want to beat what ever comes up next to me to the speed limit.
Hands down, a higher stall converter is the best mod for getting down the track faster. It puts the engine into its power range much faster. As mentioned, guys can shave .5 second off a 1/4 mile time with a higher stall converter and some sticky tires (no other mods).

But you will need sticky tires. The stock tires will most likey not hold a higher stall converter.

An L99 A6 with a higher stall converter and some sticky tires should be able to run mid 12s in the 1/4 mile under good track condtions.
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:53 AM   #13
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You will notice a huge difference in a stall or gear depending on how high you want to go.

On a personal preferece I would go with a stall first. I dont know how far into your car you plan on modding, but it helps to know what you want end wise first and build your car according to a plan.

If you just looking for a broadstreet bully, I would say a 3000k stall and 3.73 gears.

I dont know why the put a bigger gear in the auto. Maybe to stop it from beating on the m6 cars at the track?
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:57 AM   #14
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Ok, sounds cool. Been talking to the wife more and she is just tired of me being upset about the car and why the sell talk is coming up. So if I do not mention my frustration to her anymore maybe I can work it out to keep the car if GM gets moving on it.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:17 PM   #15
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Another thing about converters is what's called Shift Extension. What this is, is the difference, in RPM, from the shift point drop from one gear to the next. For example - my 4L60E would shift from about 6200 in first, all the way down to 3800 or-so into second. With the SS3800, the shift extension allowed the RPMs to never drop, during and after shifts, below 5300-5400 RPMs. What that means is I'm right at the heart of my power peak. Your guys 6L80s wouldn't have a drop like that because your gears aren't as spread-out as a 4L60, but that shift extension is keeping the RPMs constantly in the meat of the powerband. You have to tune the converter to know where in your powerband is optimal, but the converter company can help you with that. To give an idea on improvement, my brother was running 13.1s @ 108 with his '02 with a lid, catback, canned tune, and good tires. He would stall to about 1700 on the OEM 'verter and would jump out of the hole with no tirespin and could pull 1.9s. With the only two changes being 3.73s and an SS4000, he was running consistant 12.4s on DRs (okay- three changes). He could pull 1.6s and was around 109-'ish or so through the traps. His shift extension was pretty much like mine.

High stall converters are simply the best mods' for an auto' car, almost before anything else. You spend $800 on a good billet converter with high efficiency and will drop a half-second with good tires - easy. If I were to get another slushbox, it'd be getting a converter before headers, hands-down. Tuning will be a must, but a big stall just feels good
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:41 PM   #16
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I understand how a converter helps at the 1/4 mile track, but how would it affect the upshifts/downshifts on a road course?
Also, how do you know what a new converters shift extension is? Is a lower STR better?
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:26 PM   #17
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At the track a stall will help keep you in the power band more often. Think of it as holding the clutch pedal down until you hit 3000rpm and then engaging it. You motor will rev to desired rpms quicker and wont go to as low of rpms on upshifts.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:12 PM   #18
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dancing the turns on a road course with a converter??

Quote:
Originally Posted by radz282003 View Post
Another thing about converters is what's called Shift Extension. What this is, is the difference, in RPM, from the shift point drop from one gear to the next. For example - my 4L60E would shift from about 6200 in first, all the way down to 3800 or-so into second. With the SS3800, the shift extension allowed the RPMs to never drop, during and after shifts, below 5300-5400 RPMs. What that means is I'm right at the heart of my power peak. Your guys 6L80s wouldn't have a drop like that because your gears aren't as spread-out as a 4L60, but that shift extension is keeping the RPMs constantly in the meat of the powerband. You have to tune the converter to know where in your powerband is optimal, but the converter company can help you with that. To give an idea on improvement, my brother was running 13.1s @ 108 with his '02 with a lid, catback, canned tune, and good tires. He would stall to about 1700 on the OEM 'verter and would jump out of the hole with no tirespin and could pull 1.9s. With the only two changes being 3.73s and an SS4000, he was running consistant 12.4s on DRs (okay- three changes). He could pull 1.6s and was around 109-'ish or so through the traps. His shift extension was pretty much like mine.

High stall converters are simply the best mods' for an auto' car, almost before anything else. You spend $800 on a good billet converter with high efficiency and will drop a half-second with good tires - easy. If I were to get another slushbox, it'd be getting a converter before headers, hands-down. Tuning will be a must, but a big stall just feels good
All very good info.
I would like my car to be dual purpose, I want to drag race one weekend and road race the next (oops, I want to drive it to work on the weekdays, so that 3 purposes). Anyway should I leave the converter stock?
Dancing around a turn on a road course is an exercise in balance, and it seems easier when you can feel more of a direct connection of the engine to the wheels. I’m not sure how well a Yank 3200 would work in this application. Are there 2800 converters out there, and ones that you can run wide open locked when needed? Thoughts anyone?
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:36 PM   #19
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also a stall in a camaro will need a large trans cooler and lots of tcm tuning,, the stock converter is designed to lock up under wot conditions and the aftermarket converters are not designed to lock at WOT, also the factory converters use pwm to lock up and from what everyone is saying the aftermarket stalls are not designed to use pcm lock up

i have more time in tuning the tcm/stall in my camaro than time tuning the new engine, i have a large b&m cooler with fan and have all wot lock up turned off and only have the converter locking in 5th and 6th at hwy speeds,

so far so good.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:22 PM   #20
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the only disadvantage to the TC is the tune itself.. like said above.. Mine is even harder to tune with the 3600 over the 3200..

though if there was 1 (2 including the tune) thing that would gain you the most is the converter, and it should have 0 affect on engine warranty etc.. they could say tranny warranty... but you don't have to go into the engine tune so even that could stay untouched, "if you wanted".
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:34 PM   #21
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Doesn't the SS have a transcooler already? Is it not large enough?
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:50 PM   #22
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Doesn't the SS have a transcooler already? Is it not large enough?
it just has the factory cooler in the radiator,, a stall will add more heat so it is a good idea to install the largest cooler you can fit just to make sure the trans stays cool,, mine stays at least 30* cooler with the b&m cooler with built in 9" fan
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:35 PM   #23
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I'd ALWAYS run at least ONE external tranny cooler with a bigger stall, let alone just a stock stall. I was running two 24K lb. B&M Supercoolers on my '02, and even after a run down the track, I could get it up to about 180*; never more than that though. It was said 200* was the max' temp' one should run so I just wanted to play it safe. Not a once, regardless of a 45 stop-and-go communute in +100* weather did I ever see it go over 180*. I also got rid of all the baffles in front of the condensor and the washer bottle so I could get as much cool air to the coolers.

IMHO - at least one of the biggest coolers you can install is playing it safe; two, for me, was piece of mind.

I think running a stalled car on a road course/autoX would probably be easier because just driving around in a spirited manor proved throttle control was a lot more smooth and forgiving. My brother LOVED driving his '02 with an SS4000 and 3.73s around the autoX. I hadn't driven on one myself, but I rode with him several times, and the car just went with whatever he wanted.

JMVHO.
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz282003 View Post
I think running a stalled car on a road course/autoX would probably be easier because just driving around in a spirited manor proved throttle control was a lot more smooth and forgiving. My brother LOVED driving his '02 with an SS4000 and 3.73s around the autoX. I hadn't driven on one myself, but I rode with him several times, and the car just went with whatever he wanted.

JMVHO.
Is it standard to install a bigger trans cooler no matter what your reason is? I too am interested in autoX and even getting down to a real road course.
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Old 08-05-2009, 01:20 PM   #25
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I think that most enthusiasts will say "YES", however, I'm sure a technician at a dealership may not agree. I'd put an external cooler on any of my cars that were even close to performance, or where I'd be driving aggressively. For Camaro, I'd definately say yes to installing one. If you're going to be autoX'ing or running down a road course, I'd find two of the biggest ones you can and run those. If you're going to run with the converter unlocked, you're going to be running really warm/hot. I'd make sure those coolers have adequate air flow and even consider running fans on them too. I completely gutted the area in front of my condensor and bought another washer reservoir and mounted it under the driver's side front headlight so there would be NOTHING in front of my tranny coolers. There was a direct shot of air from off the deflector under the radiator support onto the coolers, and I even drilled out the existing holes in the OEM bumper absorber so air could be directed at the coolers. It worked well enough that when the car was parked, and the fans were running, I could feel air flow through those holes and go right across both coolers. Anyhow - my point is run at least one cooler
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