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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 09-12-2010, 02:03 PM   #51
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i thought you already covered single/split pattern cams somewhere else...
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:40 PM   #52
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Quote:
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i thought you already covered single/split pattern cams somewhere else...

I just copypasta'd that from the OP.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:44 PM   #53
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Great write up and fantastic info for a guy that is hungry to learn.
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:52 AM   #54
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Thanks for the info, good write up.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:38 AM   #55
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Really good info. This helped me alot on my decision on future applications.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:02 AM   #56
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Lopiest Cam Possible???

I would like to put a very lopity (if that is even a word lol) cam in my LS3. I have a 2010 2SS/RS M6 that is strickly a show car. She only gets driven to and from car shows so drivability is really not a factor. I am NOT necesarily looking for improved power as I do not "race" this car whatsoever but a mean SOUNDING idle as I pull into the carshow. If at all possible I would like to keep all original/stock parts except for the cam with regards to valves, springs, ect. I would like it to have that k-klumpity k-klumpity sound at idle and not just sound choppy. I dont know how else to say it without mentioning an old chevy 350 I had in my 86 Z-28 (yes I know, 86 didnt have a 350, it was a motor I built for my highschool project car). I dont remember what the cam specs were (possible RV style) but I absolutely loved the idle at about 850 rpms (as low as it would go without stalling) of that motor as the whole car shook with vengence.

I have a intermediate understanding of cams and how they work, but...

I have a few questions/options though:

1, Can I have a custom cam ground to keep the lift the same in order to provide proper clearances of the valve/pistons but change the LSA or duration to give it that k-klumpity lope without having to change out the whole valvetrain?

2, Should I keep YOUTUBE surfing and watch videos until I find a Cam that is already out there that I like without the garantee that I will find one eventually, not to mention possibly having to change the valvetrain...

3, I can go ahead and change the valvetrain and then either have a custom cam ground or buy a Name brand one already in production...

Does anyone have a better knowledge about the LS3 and what specs will make her sound rough at idle and sing at higher RPMs???

Any info will be greatly apreciated.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:13 AM   #57
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Bump

Bump
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:04 AM   #58
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:26 PM   #59
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Lawman,
Do you have a p/n for that cam and what additional parts will they, the dealer require to install along with their cam.?
I want to call them here and get this done.

Thanks in adv,
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:28 PM   #60
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has anyone else had this problem. installed three bolt cam and cam gear after few hundred miles the cel came on, had it checked it was the cam sensor. pulled it out it had a groove worn form the cam gear. talked to texas speed and they said this has happen to others but dont know why. so just trying to see if anyone else has seen this.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:22 PM   #61
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Awesome!! Thank you.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:21 AM   #62
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Maybe add proper break in procedure?
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:55 PM   #63
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proper breakin procedure http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...tech-bulletin/
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:41 AM   #64
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I have a question...When replacing the cam, at what point would you look at getting better springs?
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:48 AM   #65
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at any cam worth putting in. the cams that would not require a spring change do not make enough power to be worth the time to install or the price to buy.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:53 PM   #66
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Question. Lets just use this cam as an example: LS3 229/244 .615"/.595" 113+4

What does the plus 4 mean?
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:18 PM   #67
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Quote:
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Question. Lets just use this cam as an example: LS3 229/244 .615"/.595" 113+4

What does the plus 4 mean?
The +4 means the cam is ground 4 degrees advanced. So the intake CL would be on 109 degrees and the EX CL would be on 117 degrees.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:30 PM   #68
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The +4 means the cam is ground 4 degrees advanced. So the intake CL would be on 109 degrees and the EX CL would be on 117 degrees.
Good to see you here Kip!
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:29 AM   #69
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just a "fyi"...first off,i am a parts manager for a chevy/cad. dealer in pascagoula ms., i have been debateing for awhile now about changeing my cam,i do not race my ls3 at the strip,and i have not raced it yet,but.....when i do,i want the ponies there,i have cai,gmpp exaust,(about to change to kooks l/t)and a tune,but gm has a performance hot cam available that will give you alot of bang for your buck($)..the ls hot cam produces 50more hp and the trq.jumps from 424 to 475,which is a 12% gain by way of 0.525 inch lift on both intake and exaust along with 219-degree/228 degree duration,not a bad investment at under $500 for the cam that adds 50 horses,

Could you get this installed at chevy and keep factory warranty?
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:07 PM   #70
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new here and was wondering if i took my stock cam out and replaced it with the vvt2 cam, will i need to switch push rods because of length? i know i have to do the lifters but do all push rods need to be new as well???
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:59 PM   #71
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Could you get this installed at chevy and keep factory warranty?
yes if the dealer installs the cam and you use the gm performance canned tune you can keep the warranty. my uncle did it on his LS3 10 vette. GMPP heads and Cam. ordered it that way from the dealer. when they got it thay put the heads and cam in and he has the same warranty by GM not the dealer.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:01 PM   #72
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new here and was wondering if i took my stock cam out and replaced it with the vvt2 cam, will i need to switch push rods because of length? i know i have to do the lifters but do all push rods need to be new as well???
depends on the cam but most likely yes you will need new push rods.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:30 PM   #73
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Well im going with the vvt2 my tuner set it states right on TSP's web site that there's no need for push rod change but I don't wanna break down my engine and then come to find out I have to order push rods in the car be down longer than I thought
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:31 PM   #74
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Well im going with the vvt2 my tuner said it states right on TSP's web site that there's no need for push rod change but I don't wanna break down my engine and then come to find out I have to order push rods in the car be down longer than I thought. Iv asked tsp hopefully they can be more helpful
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:54 AM   #75
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Thanks for the explanation of how it works!
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