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Old 04-07-2011, 02:46 PM   #126
themossman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fata$$ View Post
can you put a phone dock the same way as the radar?
as long as that dock is looking for 12V...you should be good to go.
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:47 PM   #127
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Moss you got a recomendation on a good radar detctor???

I'm thinking I'll need one for the trip to the fest.
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Old 04-07-2011, 04:25 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by themossman View Post
as long as that dock is looking for 12V...you should be good to go.

Hey I can't see the pictures you had in the walkthough. I new to this forum stuff so I don't know if i'm doing this stuff right.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:20 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by GTAHVIT View Post
Moss you got a recomendation on a good radar detctor???

I'm thinking I'll need one for the trip to the fest.
you're welcome to borrow mine...what day are you heading out?
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:59 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by Icntdrv55 View Post
Hey guys like I said, you can tap into the Onstar power right in the rear view mirror. I bought a "stealth" plug on ebay for my 8500 and it just plugs right into the rear view mirror Onstar power. Took me about 15-20 minutes to install. Very easy!
I just did this, it is definitely better than running to the fuse box using a fuse tap, spade connector or any of that other stuff. 15 minutes tops. Pop the mirror off, stealth plug, match black to black, red to red/pink and you're good to go.
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:22 AM   #131
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sorry I lost the pictures...I switched off comcast and forgot to download all my pictures... :(


Perhaps the next person that does this can take a few quick pics and we can update...
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:09 PM   #132
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Hey guys I am having a little trouble. Attempting to hardwire the v1. Went to radioshack and they did not have any fuse taps. The v1 comes with a t tap. I was wondering if anyone went that route. Do you need to use invisicord? Thanks guys.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:03 AM   #133
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Originally Posted by iFast View Post
Got my radar detector hard wired today. Went from the roof liner down the pillar to the fuse box and tapped into one of the 10A fuses using a fuse tap. Just wanna say thanks to all you guys adding your "HOW-TO". It really helped me decided how I wanted to do mine.
I did the same thing. I tapped it using a blade tap and just connected that to the 10A trunk release fuse at the top. Easy as pie.

V1 does get hot though. I've read that's normal but darn... Florida sun doesn't help I'm sure.
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:57 PM   #134
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I'm going to try this for my V1 this week. Not sure if I will use power from the mirror, the light, or the fuse box, but I'll take photos for the next person. If only as a lesson in how not to do it, if it turns out poorly!
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:33 AM   #135
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Strange, can't see the OP's photos only the placeholders are visible.
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:11 PM   #136
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Did it!

OK, I installed my V1 wiring in much the same way Macamaro did, from the fuse box through the trim to the driver's visor. It worked pretty well, but I'll point out a few problem areas with the following photos.
I don't know how to caption these photos, so I'll summarize by saying the first photo shows a clip that disappeared as I removed the fuse box door. I was off to a great start, huh?
The fourth photo shows the mysterious extra fuse that showed up (the clear one) as soon as I removed the one from F17. It's 2A and I have no idea where it came from. I'm assuming if it's not a spare I will soon find that something doesn't work!
Photo five shows the fuse tap in place. I had to Dremel the metal a bit to make it fit then I really had to wedge it into the hole along with the fuse. I was surprised the metal didn't bend and break.
Before I ran the wire through the headliner I made sure the V1 was working, photo 9.
In the last photo you can see all the extra wire I was left with. I know I should cut it and make it shorter, but I'll leave that for another day. Instead, I simply tie-wrapped it and stuck it next to the detector. As soon as I remove the detector the extra wire will fall down, which will probably be pretty annoying, so I'm thinking of leaving the detector on my visor from now on. The only thing is I don't want it to be stolen and I'm not sure we're allowed to have radar detectors on base (but I'll check). (I work at an Air Force base.)
Well, I hope this proves useful for someone. It was a little harder than I expected, but at least that damn wire is out of my hair (until I remove the detector from its holster).
Let me know if you have questions.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:30 PM   #137
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i just did this on my 2012. this technique was way easier than tapping into the rear view mirror. the a-pillar gave me a little grief. i just pulled on it at the top and it came out about 1/4" so at that point i just used a wire hanger, taped the smart cord to it, and fed it down and it came out right at the fuse box.

also, no reason to use a connector on your fuse. just strip about 1/2" of wire and twist it around the top of one of the prongs on the fuse and stick it in. works like a charm.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:40 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiteman View Post
i just did this on my 2012. this technique was way easier than tapping into the rear view mirror. the a-pillar gave me a little grief. i just pulled on it at the top and it came out about 1/4" so at that point i just used a wire hanger, taped the smart cord to it, and fed it down and it came out right at the fuse box.

also, no reason to use a connector on your fuse. just strip about 1/2" of wire and twist it around the top of one of the prongs on the fuse and stick it in. works like a charm.

cool, but really, that doesn't sound any easier than tapping into the rear view mirror power.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:44 PM   #139
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cool, but really, that doesn't sound any easier than tapping into the rear view mirror power.
^This. It would have been much more simple to tap into the mirror. Purchased an inviscord and took about 5 minutes.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:26 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by POWERFREAK View Post
cool, but really, that doesn't sound any easier than tapping into the rear view mirror power.
guys, the 2012 currently has unknown rear view mirror wiring, so it would have been trial and error for me (and potentially only error), so it wasn't worth the hassle of trying. the pins have already been confirmed as different and currently only an always-on power pin has been established. this would not be convenient (unless you were okay with turning your unit on and off every time you got in/out of the car).

what i was trying to state is that i already owned the smartcord and that was my preference of wiring all along. however, as seamless as the a-pillar connects to the dash and roof of our cars, i was convinced that the smartcord installation would be difficult and the invisicord would be the way to go. in case anyone owns a smartcord already and/or has a 2012, i think hardwiring to the fusebox is superior to buying an invisicord and going through that install, which appears to be on the same level of difficulty.

besides, this is a DIY for hardwiring to the fuse box, not invisicord wiring.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:50 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiteman View Post
guys, the 2012 currently has unknown rear view mirror wiring, so it would have been trial and error for me (and potentially only error), so it wasn't worth the hassle of trying. the pins have already been confirmed as different and currently only an always-on power pin has been established. this would not be convenient (unless you were okay with turning your unit on and off every time you got in/out of the car).

what i was trying to state is that i already owned the smartcord and that was my preference of wiring all along. however, as seamless as the a-pillar connects to the dash and roof of our cars, i was convinced that the smartcord installation would be difficult and the invisicord would be the way to go. in case anyone owns a smartcord already and/or has a 2012, i think hardwiring to the fusebox is superior to buying an invisicord and going through that install, which appears to be on the same level of difficulty.

besides, this is a DIY for hardwiring to the fuse box, not invisicord wiring.

K, glad it worked out for you. I find it hard to believe there's ONLY "always on" power going to the mirror....but hey, guess it could be.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:18 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POWERFREAK View Post
K, glad it worked out for you. I find it hard to believe there's ONLY "always on" power going to the mirror....but hey, guess it could be.
Not true I used the Stealth Mirror Cord from http://www.safe-n-sound1.com/ it's only 9 bucks comes with instructions, it's fused and was a slam dunk to install, no fileing down the connector prong like the invisicord. It took me about 10 min max. I spent 5 of those minutes looking for a screw I dropped, it bounced and rolled inside the seat track.

Easy install, Remove one screw holding the mirror using a #20 torx driver, slide mirror upwards to remove, disconnect the plug, slide the red wire into the pink wire slot and the black wire in the black wire slot and you have switched power. The confusion is, there is a pink wire on both sides of the plug, if you plug into the wrong side it will not be switched. To identify the correct side, one side has an empty wire slot. That is the wrong side, use the pink wire on the opposite side of plug.
Not to worry the Stealth mirror cord comes with pictured instructions.

Last edited by L99; 01-05-2012 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:24 PM   #143
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Not true I used the Stealth Mirror Cord from http://www.safe-n-sound1.com/ it's only 9 bucks comes with instructions, it's fused and was a slam dunk to install, no fileing down the connector prong like the invisicord. It took me about 10 min max. I spent 5 of those minutes looking for a screw I dropped, it bounced and rolled inside the seat track.

Easy install, Remove one screw holding the mirror using a #20 torx driver, slide mirror upwards to remove, disconnect the plug, slide the red wire into the pink wire slot and the black wire in the black wire slot and you have switched power. The confusion is, there is a pink wire on both sides of the plug, if you plug into the wrong side it will not be switched. To identify the correct side, one side has an empty wire slot. That is the wrong side, use the pink wire on the opposite side of plug.
Not to worry the Stealth mirror cord comes with pictured instructions.

Do you have a 2012? The previous comments were about the mirror wiring being different than the 2010-11s.

I have an invisacord in my 2010...easy install. I didn't have to file anything down.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #144
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Originally Posted by POWERFREAK View Post
Do you have a 2012? The previous comments were about the mirror wiring being different than the 2010-11s.

I have an invisacord in my 2010...easy install. I didn't have to file anything down.
I have a 2012 convert. Tried several times to find switched power in the mirror with no success. Finally routed the power to the fuse compartment on the left side of the dash. I now have switched power.

However, the LEDs on the V-1 do not appear to be as bright as before. Wondering if I need to switch the fuses in the add-a-circuit or I'm not getting enough power to the V-1.
I do not have a multi-meter.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:44 AM   #145
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which spare fuse is hot??
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:32 PM   #146
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which spare fuse is hot??
This is where most of us have tapped into.....this way when you turn on your car, and if you leave your radar detector or whatever on.....it will come on when you start it, and go off when you turn it off. on the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.....their are two fuses labled as POWER OUTLET #1 (Fuse F17) and POWER OUTLET #2 (Fuse F18)....this is for 2010 and 2011's....the 2012's could be different. both are 20 amp fuses.
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:02 PM   #147
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When I went to hard wire mine into the fuse panel the fuse that says display apprears to turn off when the car turns off but it doesnt. Anyone know any of the fuses that will turn OFFF when the car does?
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:09 PM   #148
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This is where most of us have tapped into.....this way when you turn on your car, and if you leave your radar detector or whatever on.....it will come on when you start it, and go off when you turn it off. on the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.....their are two fuses labled as POWER OUTLET #1 (Fuse F17) and POWER OUTLET #2 (Fuse F18)....this is for 2010 and 2011's....the 2012's could be different. both are 20 amp fuses.
The add-a-circut i bought is only rated for 10A can i use this fuse or not?
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:03 PM   #149
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i just now completed mine hooked the power up to th pink wire located on the airbag/pasenger seat notification light. only on when key is on checked everything works great.

ground i just scraped paint off under bezel with self drilling screw but use caution pick the right spot so you wont go through the roof
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:47 PM   #150
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The add-a-circut i bought is only rated for 10A can i use this fuse or not?
yes you can.......but I would replace it with a 3 or 5 amp.......actually about all you need is a 2 amp.
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