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Old 03-26-2014, 11:02 AM   #1
Dexman1349
2010 2SS/RS M6
 
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Lower control arm bushings

I am looking to further upgrade my suspension (see current mods in signature). On my to do list are toe rods, trailing arms, and solid subframe bushings, but I was curious as to the lower control arm bushings.

I still have the FE3 style suspension, and since I've already upgraded the sways I really don't want to replace the LCA's because it would mean a new sway too.

That being said, would it be worth my time to go ahead and upgrade the LCA bushings? Or would I be better served waiting for the toe/trailing package and subframe bushing upgrade?

Obviously I'd like to eventually get it all done, but I'm just trying to better utilize my piece-wise upgrade bang for the buck.
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Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and Gary's customs bowties, painted emblems and taillight bezels, DIY Flowtie

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts and steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways & endlinks, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, high-flow cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

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Old 03-26-2014, 11:24 AM   #2
ClawSS
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bang for the buck: toe rods and trailing arms + outer trailing arm bushing

In your sig you list Pedders subframe inserts, so there will be a "bang" if going to solids or full, but less than coming straight out of stock.

IMO, work toward affording the best toe/trailing arm _ outer trailing arm bushing combo you can and if there is any left over solidify the subframe, and if there is any more left over do the LCA bushing.

If you don't think new LCAs are in the budget, don't forget about getting the sway bar endlink support plate for the stock LCA. It will help keep those Pfadt endlinks from ripping out the LCA mounting bracket.
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2010 CGM L99 2SS/RS - CAI, Elite catch-can, Magnaflow 3", Pfadt springs, BMR LCAs, BMR toelinks, BMR trailing arms, BMR cradle bushings, BMR sway bars w/ endlinks, Vitesse paddles, heritage grille, and an eBay splitter
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:31 AM   #3
Dexman1349
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I should have mentioned that I would do the outer trailing arm bushing with the toe rods & trailing arms. To me, it's a given.

I installed the reinforcing tab when I did the sways/endlinks. I just didnt think it was signature worthy.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq

Mods:
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and Gary's customs bowties, painted emblems and taillight bezels, DIY Flowtie

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts and steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways & endlinks, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, high-flow cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

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Old 03-26-2014, 11:35 AM   #4
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The factory LCA bushing is actually pretty good. Your money is better spent on the trailing arms, toe rods, upper CAB's and solid subframe mounts.

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Old 03-26-2014, 12:00 PM   #5
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No worries, I wanted to be thorough. Your ending with "piece-wise bang for the buck" lead me into an assumption. I am just happy that Tyler backed up my wordy response. Upper CAB's would be an upgrade I did not do when the cradle was down just due to my lack of power mods. I really have no opinion and might have done it if Chase @ Apex hadn't talked me out of it...at that time.
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2010 CGM L99 2SS/RS - CAI, Elite catch-can, Magnaflow 3", Pfadt springs, BMR LCAs, BMR toelinks, BMR trailing arms, BMR cradle bushings, BMR sway bars w/ endlinks, Vitesse paddles, heritage grille, and an eBay splitter

Last edited by ClawSS; 03-28-2014 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:08 PM   #6
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Agreed, I wouldn't worry about the inner LCA bushing right now, not until you're ready to upgrade to aftermarket LCA's. Until then, Trailing Arms, Outer T/A Bushings, and Toe Rods are your best bet right now. And don't forget about those rear upper control arm bushings. It's a good idea to do those while the cradle is lowered down a bit when you're changing out the cradle bushings. I highly recommend the BK039, simply because it is so much easier to swap out the entire bracket rather than trying to press the OEM bushings out of the factory brackets. Just my .02 cents!!!
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Old 03-26-2014, 04:20 PM   #7
Dexman1349
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Playing around on the JDP website, I'm looking at something like this:
JDPS1001 - Rear Upper Control Arms bushings w/brackets
7-142 - Prothane Rear subframe bushing kit
C10-201 - Spohn Rear trailing arms
C10-601 - Spohn rear toe links
BK006 - BMR Outer trailing arm bushings

This would pretty much cover it, right?
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq

Mods:
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and Gary's customs bowties, painted emblems and taillight bezels, DIY Flowtie

Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts and steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport sways & endlinks, Pfadt strut brace

Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, high-flow cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, LSR Tri-Ax shifter

Bumblebee Racecar Build
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:57 PM   #8
130R
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The 1LE toe links are a great value and have spherical bearings instead of bushings.
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