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Old 04-27-2014, 11:31 PM   #1
Gavros 4 Life
 
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Took calipers off to get powder coated...do I need to bleed my brakes?

Just like title says took the calipers off my car to get powder coated but taped off the lines so brake fluid won't leak do I still need to bleed the entire system or can I just add a little bit when I put the calipers back on?
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:43 PM   #2
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You need to bleed the system. Not only could air have gotten into the lines, but the calipers themselves will have been drained.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:47 PM   #3
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You need to bleed the system. Not only could air have gotten into the lines, but the calipers themselves will have been drained.
Car is on jack stands as we speak....is there anyway I can do it one at a time ? Because all the ends are open so when I press the brake won't the fluid just come out from all 4 lines?

All I have to do is press the brake until there is no more fluid right?
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #4
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this scares me, you need to bleed them in order to get the air out once the calipers are back on, you should get new crush washers too. you have 2 bleeders per caliper and they need to be done in order for safety. Get help if you at all not sure...
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:10 AM   #5
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I did the same thing this past fall, after I installed my freshly powder coated calipers, I took empty water bottles and some clear vinyl hose and used 2 per caliper. I drilled a hole in the bottle caps and inserted the hose and attached the other end to each bleeder. Filled the brake reservoir and had my brother pump the brake peddle while I open one bleeder at a time until all the air bubbles were gone. It worked like a charm! Here's a link from the DYI section of this forum that might help you out. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...leeding+brakes
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:42 AM   #6
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this scares me, you need to bleed them in order to get the air out once the calipers are back on, you should get new crush washers too. you have 2 bleeders per caliper and they need to be done in order for safety. Get help if you at all not sure...
Yes, this is not anything that can be done wrong.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:12 AM   #7
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Yes, this is not anything that can be done wrong.
Need to word it more strongly.

BRAKE BLEEDING IS SOMETHING THAT CANNOT EVER BE ALLOWED TO BE DONE INCORRECTLY.


I also live in NJ, so I might have a little extra personal interest in OP getting this done right and done right the first time. I'm sure that the calipers would have dribbled enough fluid out of them during the powdercoating process for good sized air bubbles to be in each of them now.

Good call on replacing the crush washers.


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Old 04-28-2014, 08:27 AM   #8
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The caliper bolts are torque to yield (TTY) and should be replaced.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
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The caliper bolts are torque to yield (TTY) and should be replaced.
Technically the caliper to knuckle bolts are also required replacement as per GM
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:53 AM   #10
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All 3 of you guys are right. And he should listen to this info very closely. The copper washers need to be replaced. The caliper bolts also per GM. Up grade your brake fluid to Synthetic. You have to start the bleeding from the farthest point. Which is RR first LR next RF then LF in that order.

For V-8 Torque specs.
Brake Caliper Bleeder Valve 89 lb. in.
brake Caliper Bolt-Front [L99,LS3] 44lb.ft+90 degrees
Brake Caliper Bolt-Rear [L99,LS3] 30 lb. ft.+90
Brake Hose Fitting Bolt 30 lb. ft.

Hope this helps you.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:59 AM   #11
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Man these answers would intimidate the heck out of me. If I was the OP haha. Brake bleeding isn't really that complicated. Just do all your research, and if still not confident get someone who has some experience at it to help you. I'm sure there is someone in New Jersey from this forum who could probably help you out as well.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:49 PM   #12
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thanks for all the tips it is slightly intimidating lol.....can i buy all the new bolts from my dealership? Furthermore what new brake fluid should i use?
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:41 PM   #13
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At a bare minimum, DOT3 brake fluid.

But I strongly urge you to look past minimum-spec brake fluid, into whatever DOT4 fluid you can find that has a high wet boiling point (dry and wet B.P. should be listed on the container). I say wet boiling point because unless you periodically bleed or flush your brake system you'll eventually end up with fluid that's considered "wet".

Do NOT get DOT5 fluid even if you see it on the parts counter shelf. The higher number does not mean that it's better. Only that it's different and should never be mixed with the DOT3 that you have in there now.


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Old 04-28-2014, 06:30 PM   #14
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does anyone have a ling to where i can get some good Dot 4 Fluid? Should I go with the Castrol SRF Dot 4? If so can someone give me a direct link to that specific one not too sure where to get it from. Also is that good fluid where I wont have to bleed the brakes? Because since I got my car in 2010 haven't flushed my brake fluid or bled them and don't want to have to bleed them often either.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Gavros 4 Life View Post
does anyone have a ling to where i can get some good Dot 4 Fluid? Should I go with the Castrol SRF Dot 4? If so can someone give me a direct link to that specific one not too sure where to get it from. Also is that good fluid where I wont have to bleed the brakes? Because since I got my car in 2010 haven't flushed my brake fluid or bled them and don't want to have to bleed them often either.
Hoerr racing is a good source of Castrol SRF.

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...f-1-liter.html

You'll need at least two bottles.

You should flush the entire system when you change brake fluid.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:28 PM   #16
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SRF is probably overkill unless you're going to start taking your car to HPDE road course sessions. Something like ATE 200 has a much friendlier price, and the 3 year life they claim it's good for is probably all you should expect from any brake fluid.

I've had satisfactory experience with off-the-shelf Castrol and Valvoline DOT4 brake fluids in cars that were not tracked (meaning road course), though none were quite as heavy as a 5th gen Camaro SS. I don't keep the old containers, so I can't give you any more information than that.


I hope no air has found its way into the ABS unit after this length of time with the lines essentially open.


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Old 04-28-2014, 08:53 PM   #17
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SRF is probably overkill unless you're going to start taking your car to HPDE road course sessions. Something like ATE 200 has a much friendlier price, and the 3 year life they claim it's good for is probably all you should expect from any brake fluid.

I've had satisfactory experience with off-the-shelf Castrol and Valvoline DOT4 brake fluids in cars that were not tracked (meaning road course), though none were quite as heavy as a 5th gen Camaro SS. I don't keep the old containers, so I can't give you any more information than that.


I hope no air has found its way into the ABS unit after this length of time with the lines essentially open.


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Well the calipers have been off the car since Wednesday of last week and I am supposed to get them back this Wednesday.....how would I deal with air getting into the ASB if it did at all? And furthermore how would I know ?
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:21 AM   #18
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Bleeding the ABS typically involves the use of a more advanced scan tool than you're likely to find at the local Pep Boys, probably something along the lines of GM's own Tech II. I don't know how you'd know there was air in the ABS unless you get a sinking pedal under braking that invokes ABS operation or other unexpected behavior.

Bleeding lines and calipers isn't difficult, at least not with two people (one to work the brake pedal, the other to open and close the bleed valves on the calipers so that fluid and air can be pushed out but no air sucked back in when the pedal is released for the next push). You will need to verify the correct sequence.


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Old 04-29-2014, 09:53 PM   #19
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Well the calipers have been off the car since Wednesday of last week and I am supposed to get them back this Wednesday.....how would I deal with air getting into the ASB if it did at all? And furthermore how would I know ?
If the master cylinder has run dry, most likely the ABS will have air in it. If you did a good job of sealing the open brake lines and the master cylinder has not been allowed to get empty, it's very unlikely the ABS module has air in it. Once you get everything back together, go find a straight and lonely road and activate the ABS. If the pedal sinks and/or feels spongy, you have air in the ABS and it will require an advanced scan tool to bleed it out.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:29 PM   #20
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Thank you camaro 5! All was a success!
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