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Old 12-28-2013, 06:26 PM   #1
Roger Stattel
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro 1ss
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bmr solid cradle bushings and diff

Hey the job is in progress and the instructions say to pull the whole cradle out? Is there a way to leave the cradle in and still switch them out. Also does the suspension have to be taken out?
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #2
SlowTurtle
 
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drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:48 PM   #3
tanur420
 
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would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:23 PM   #4
Roger Stattel
 
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So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:50 PM   #5
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would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear
Lowered not dropped, the process is the same. Remove 2 bolts and loosen the other side, do your work, switch sides and repeat.

You need to undo a fuel pump harness connector and pop the parking brake cables out as well. I had to undo the lower shock bolt as well since the shocks were preventing it from dropping as much as I needed it to. I believe that was all.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:52 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Roger Stattel View Post
So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?
Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:01 PM   #7
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Your going to have to undo the strut from the lower control arm to get the cradle low enough to do the rear bushings in the cradle. You can get the old rear bushing out but putting the BMR bushing in your going to have to drop it lower than 1". The alignment stud is the problem.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.
The shocks will actually hold it up, however I wouldnt recommend loosening all four at once. I removed three and loosened the fourth and just worked in a circle.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #9
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True, but mine had to come out to get it low enough for the bushings to do in and stockers cut out. At the time I did it no one knew about the heating and socket method, not sure if that changes things.
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:54 AM   #10
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Just got done last week installing the solid cradle bushings on my 2012 SS. I did like the guys on here said about just the rear frame down one side at a time. It took some work to get the back ones out due to the guide that is part of the frame and goes inside the rear cradle bushing itself. That steel guide that is part of the frame sticks down another 3 inches which made it harder to work the old one out and to get the new one in. But was able to do it no problem just take some time. Changed all four in less then 4 hours from start to finish without removing exhaust or dropping the frame out of the car. Also replaced the springs all the way around at the same time dropping the car 1" (at least I think it is only 1"). Got a 4 wheel alignment and am ready for spring time to roll around.
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:59 PM   #11
Roger Stattel
 
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Ok so my subframe bushings were a cake walk doing it that way. Unfortunately I am having trouble getting the rear differential front driver side bushing out. I already drilled out the center using a 2" hole saw so have to continue. All that is left is bushing sleeve. I tried to start using a screwdriver to get it out from back side but am struggling because of the rear diff housing and the angle I have to chisel at. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #12
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sawzall the bushing case in half. once its cut through the bushing will lose all tension and come right out. take care not to butcher your housing in the process
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #13
Roger Stattel
 
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I don't know if I trust my self but will have to try that if no other suggestions.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by SlowTurtle View Post
drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.
Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?
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