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Old 10-06-2012, 03:08 PM   #1
dcplus14
 
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1LE Sway Bar Install

Going from the 2012 SS bars to the 1LE sway bars, front and rear.

I started in the front because I knew it would be a pain, well I was right. If you thought taking out the front stock bar is trouble, try installing the new 1LE thicker bar with the same design. Currently I am stuck trying to get this thing in for the past hour and it's not looking good right now. Will update with pictures once this install is complete.
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[AAC DRL LED's, AAC LED's for trunk, cabin, license plate, CAI Intake, RX Catch Can, Skip shift eliminator, Pedders Sub-Frame Inserts, Pedders Radius Rod Inserts, Pedders Rack & Pinion Bushing, 1LE front and rear sway bars]
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcplus14 View Post
Going from the 2012 SS bars to the 1LE sway bars, front and rear.

I started in the front because I knew it would be a pain, well I was right. If you thought taking out the front stock bar is trouble, try installing the new 1LE thicker bar with the same design. Currently I am stuck trying to get this thing in for the past hour and it's not looking good right now. Will update with pictures once this install is complete.
If you tell me what how you are doing this I may be able to help.

Did you loosen the cradle and drop it a bit?
Did you remove the bolts that hold the steering rack in place?
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:21 PM   #3
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Did you keep your eyes open during install? LOL jk
Glad mine will come already installed :P
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:25 PM   #4
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Negative, right now I have the car on a jack and jack stands, both front wheels of. The front stock sway bar is out and I have been trying to wiggle the new one in from the passenger side.

I first tried going above the Radius arm but that wasn't going to end well. I then went under the radius arm and tried following the same path that the stock one came out but I keep getting hooked on either the driver steering boot, or one of the passenger side 'lower' arms, not sure what it is called.

I am not sure if I am qualified dropping the front cradle at all and the steering rack and it's bolts are all secured and in place, they don't seem to be getting in the way too much.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcplus14 View Post
Negative, right now I have the car on a jack and jack stands, both front wheels of. The front stock sway bar is out and I have been trying to wiggle the new one in from the passenger side.

I first tried going above the Radius arm but that wasn't going to end well. I then went under the radius arm and tried following the same path that the stock one came out but I keep getting hooked on either the driver steering boot, or one of the passenger side 'lower' arms, not sure what it is called.

I am not sure if I am qualified dropping the front cradle at all and the steering rack and it's bolts are all secured and in place, they don't seem to be getting in the way too much.
There are four bolts that hold the steering rack in place. Remove them and slide the steering rack back. That will give you the room you need to slide the new bar in.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:31 PM   #6
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Ok thanks, I did one side before I believe when installing the Pedders EP2112
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:34 PM   #7
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Ok thanks, I did one side before I believe when installing the Pedders EP2112
Yep.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:42 PM   #8
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Thx Pete!
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:45 PM   #9
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Thx Pete!
Thank me after it works
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:56 PM   #10
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If Pete's suggestion doesn't do the trick, I unbolted the motor mounts and jacked up the motor 1-2 inches and my front bar went right in. Don't forget to use LocTite blue on reassembly.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:09 PM   #11
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Thanks Cuda, I have a second pair of hands on it's way to help out hopefully we will get some resolution.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda7050 View Post
If Pete's suggestion doesn't do the trick, I unbolted the motor mounts and jacked up the motor 1-2 inches and my front bar went right in. Don't forget to use LocTite blue on reassembly.
That will work too!
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:16 PM   #13
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I've done it before by breaking the ball joints on the radius arms to the knuckle loose, and the tie rod to knuckle on one side. (just the ball stud, not the outer tie rod to inner tie rod)
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:28 PM   #14
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We got it in there!....just needed that second set of eyes, a few twitches in the bar and it came through. Didn't have to remove anything else.

Anyone know the torque specs on the mounting bolts? I think I read 84 ft/pounds.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcplus14 View Post
We got it in there!....just needed that second set of eyes, a few twitches in the bar and it came through. Didn't have to remove anything else.

Anyone know the torque specs on the mounting bolts? I think I read 84 ft/pounds.
This should cover everything.

Bush Timing

Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.

Alignment




Front and Rear Bolt Torque Values




NOTE: Torque specifications that read XX torque value and XX degrees are usually TTY and require replacement of the bolt, nut or both. If replacement parts are not available from GM the minimum acceptable torque will be those values stated along with a liberal application of a thread locker i.e. LocTite.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:44 PM   #16
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Thanks Pete, I keep forgetting to check your post on all those specs! I'm just gonna make a wallpaper background w/ all that info, thanks!

On to the rear of the car, and time pending, some sub-frame inserts too.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:47 PM   #17
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:17 PM   #18
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Haha yes! I told my friend who is here to make sure to bring his impact gun and chisel bit!
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #19
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And just like that the rear sway is in, significantly easier job to do. Pics in a few.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:41 PM   #20
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Pics? Lol jk can't wait tho. Congratz
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Old 10-06-2012, 10:44 PM   #21
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:03 AM   #22
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Parts as delivered:


Front Sways comparison 1LE vs '12 SS


Rear Sways comparison '1LE vs '12 SS


Front Install view:


Suggestions for those w/ jack and jack stands on the install of the front 1LE bar: take your time and be patient, go below the radius rod not above (lol), raise the jacks up as high as you can to get some ground clearance as you rotate the bars, oh and did I mention be patient.

Suggestions for those w/ jack and jack stands on the install of the rear 1LE bar: This install is just plain easy just make sure you find a good jack point and jack stand location.

Note: I never got around to installing the sub-frame inserts. All the guides on this forum here suggest you raise the vehicle via jack using the front sub-frame mounts and place the jack stands on the rear sub-frame mounts. This really doesn't work AT ALL when trying to install sub-frame inserts. So, until I can figure out where to jack and place jack stands, I will be holding off on the install. Since I need to lower the sub-frame a bit for that install I guess I need to lift on a non-subframe point. Will I need some sort of wheel lifts (race ramps)? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks for reading and thanks all for the great forum support as usual!
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:51 AM   #23
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Very nice! I like the factory vs upgrade pics you took. There is a bigger visual difference between the Fe4 and 1LE sway bars than I thought.
Question : Are the diameters of the 1LE and Zl1 sway bars the same?

DCplus14....we are fortunate enough to have '12 FE4 suspended cars so the 1LE and Zl1 sway bars bolt right up
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:01 AM   #24
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Very nice! I like the factory vs upgrade pics you took. There is a bigger visual difference between the Fe4 and 1LE sway bars than I thought.
Question : Are the diameters of the 1LE and Zl1 sway bars the same?

DCplus14....we are fortunate enough to have '12 FE4 suspended cars so the 1LE and Zl1 sway bars bolt right up
The front is larger on the 1LE than ZL1, the rears are the same diameter. I think it's 28/27mm for 1LE and 27/27mm for ZL1.

Yea, we are lucky they bold right up, hope the FE4 end links can handle it too, or should I say, the P-Zero's!
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:13 AM   #25
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Nice write up .
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