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Old 06-29-2014, 01:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 350 HRSS View Post
I would like to have a set of tires I could run on the street, that would't throw crap all over the rear fenders-rock chips, ect.

Suggestions for those?
See first post in thread...
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:01 PM   #19
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How do we match the TPS to the car? I have my wheels and also 4 sensors, but never made the sensor match, how is that done.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:08 PM   #20
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My car is white and white is always supposed to hide dirt better but after washing her I take a speed run to dry and in 2 miles she is dirty again back on the lower door and rear fenders.

Hopefully Skylane is working on a kit to run these http://goo.gl/JvHUrj
We only let the guy advertise the mud guards on our site, but now are the rock guards still available? The ZL1 rock guards will work. Where do we get them?

I can get them made easy.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:53 PM   #21
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How do we match the TPS to the car? I have my wheels and also 4 sensors, but never made the sensor match, how is that done.
1. Buy one of THESE


2. You enter the TPMS reset menu via the DIC display. You go to the TPMS display and then hit "select" to get into the reset/programming mode.

3. Once into the reset mode, and starting at the driver's side front tire, you simply go in a clockwise pattern (seen from above) to reset each TPMS. The car gives you feedback by honking when a TPMS connection has been made.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:05 AM   #22
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even though it says it doesn't..this works on the z with the factory tpms sensors also vettes and ctsvs http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=177
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:17 AM   #23
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here are my tires after roughly 400 miles and 6.5hrs in some initial street miles, 1 autox and 3 DE track days. All brake pads are even at 9.34cm.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:45 AM   #24
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How do we match the TPS to the car? I have my wheels and also 4 sensors, but never made the sensor match, how is that done.
Up to 2011, GM's did not need a tool. Now they do. I will train yours for free for just to test my tool on Z/28's.

SIDEBAR:

You don't have to buy GM sensors either, they are becoming universal. Major brands like VDO are selling sensors that are better than OEM pieces at less than half OEM dealer price. They train faster and seal better.

In fact, some cars come with rubber TPMS valve stems which are illegal for many kinds of racing; they must be metal. VDO sensors are metal. Look for SE10001HP - http://www.amazon.com/VDO-SE10001HP-...ords=SE10001HP

Half the price of TireRack or OEM.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:50 AM   #25
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If you have not already maxed out the front camber I suggest doing so, you are on the sidewalls a bit. Other than that, it looks perfectly normal and expected.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:56 AM   #26
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yes thanks...I see that. I am running stock alignment as I drive this all the time on the street and would prefer less wear. Could this sidewall wear have been from that one autox (10) one minute runs in 80 degrees ambient but the tires were too low at 34 and not up higher as some on this board have said you need to do for autox??? The car was also run by an autox instructor very hard for 2 runs and then I spun around completely in another run with all nanny's off....or do you think this was totally done on a track by less than full race alignment???
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:27 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by backtotintops View Post
yes thanks...I see that. I am running stock alignment as I drive this all the time on the street and would prefer less wear. Could this sidewall wear have been from that one autox (10) one minute runs in 80 degrees ambient but the tires were too low at 34 and not up higher as some on this board have said you need to do for autox??? The car was also run by an autox instructor very hard for 2 runs and then I spun around completely in another run with all nanny's off....or do you think this was totally done on a track by less than full race alignment???
IMO -

AutoX is brutal on front tires with heavy cars. It has to rotate a 4000lb object instantly, with essentially 1 front tire. You often have to run 40lb in the fronts on heavy cars to avoid tire damage.

You must also "give it up" more before corners. Smooth braking, but a LOT of it is required. Trail braking in AutoX is a no-no, you will understeer.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:45 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backtotintops View Post
yes thanks...I see that. I am running stock alignment as I drive this all the time on the street and would prefer less wear. Could this sidewall wear have been from that one autox (10) one minute runs in 80 degrees ambient but the tires were too low at 34 and not up higher as some on this board have said you need to do for autox??? The car was also run by an autox instructor very hard for 2 runs and then I spun around completely in another run with all nanny's off....or do you think this was totally done on a track by less than full race alignment???
Hard to say with certainty. McRat makes excellent points. I have sidewall wear on my outboard rear (RR tire/CCW track) from running a bit too low pressures - 29-30 psi.

Camber does not accelerate wear during street driving, it's a common misconception. I have a friend who has 18k street miles on a set of Trofeos running -3.5 front camber.
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:27 PM   #29
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Just bought 4 S-04s to mount on my OEM extra set of wheels and sensors I bought.
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:35 AM   #30
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Just bought 4 S-04s to mount on my OEM extra set of wheels and sensors I bought.
Nice choice for the street! I hope to have the Yokohama AD08-Rs mounted by the end of this week, and will report my thoughts back to this thread...
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:39 AM   #31
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I have the tool now, it says we just hold it to the tire and go to the DIC menu and the owners manual shows how to train the sensors.
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:44 AM   #32
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I have the tool now, it says we just hold it to the tire and go to the DIC menu and the owners manual shows how to train the sensors.
It's actually a lot quicker and easier than I thought. It would still be nice if they'd use one of the newer systems that automatically recognize a second set -- but this will do for now...
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:51 AM   #33
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As mcrat pointed out...You can copy the sensor data to the other set so you do not need the tool when swapping.
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:16 AM   #34
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No, I think not. From what I understand each sensor has its own code, so if the car learns the ones on the car, then install new the new Tire sensors need to be learned, the car will not know the old ones when I put them back on, also you have to use the tool if you rotate tires right left front rear. We can only do right left on the Z28. That's the way I understand how it works, I may be wrong? Because if the other set of tires are sitting by my car, how does the DIC know what to display and where?
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