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Old 08-13-2009, 02:10 PM   #29
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Royal Purple is on neither list.
What's the deal ?
.. and seeing how the manual says only use of 6094 (V6) is recommended, I'm sure warranty might be jeopardized by an oil not held to that standard. Does RP have any identifcation on a label talking about these qualifications ?
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:40 PM   #30
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Well my DD 98Z28 at 244,000+ has had nothing but castrol syntec since I bought it new.
And I have never had any motor issues and still running strong, to me that
says a lot.
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Ranger 75 View Post
Tom Cat, So to get back to the point! I have 2500 miles 0n my LS3 can I now switch to Royal Purple?
Yes. You will be fine. I changed my oil for the first time right at 1500 miles and put in RP 5w-30. I don't care what anyone says....I backed my car up out of the shop where I changed it and the car just felt smoother. RP is the real deal. It is the only oil that my Camaro will see.
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:11 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ranger 75 View Post
Tom Cat, So to get back to the point! I have 2500 miles 0n my LS3 can I now switch to Royal Purple?
Yes you can, and you will be fine. I incourage everyone to research their own products, and decide what you want to use, and what you feel is best for you. I just go by what i have learned, and the advice of a couple of professional engine builders. i DO NOT run RP alone, nor will i ever.
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:06 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by FI4T0MCAT View Post
Yes you can, and you will be fine. I incourage everyone to research their own products, and decide what you want to use, and what you feel is best for you. I just go by what i have learned, and the advice of a couple of professional engine builders. i DO NOT run RP alone, nor will i ever.
What zinc additive do you use? How much?
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:16 AM   #34
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I've been using Mobil 1 forever, they're the only reason I never used Royal Purple, I thought they were just as good. Welp, looks like I'm buying a bunch of purple bottles in a few miles.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:49 PM   #35
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But what do you do when your dealer says that ut will void your warranty if you don't use mobile1, what would you do?
Sue! When they tell you that you have to use a specific brand than they better dam well supply it.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:56 PM   #36
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Royal purple, and yes, but thats just my opinion. With all new engines I add zinc initially (adds cushioning properties to the oil) then make my first oil change at 1500. leave the filter though, Then my second at 3000, and change the filter. Then continue on the every 3000 schedule. I always add a zinc addative, oils now cant have enough zinc in them (thanks uncle sam) to provide proper cushioning. So i basically make my own blend.
I disagree.The oil filter in the first oil change is crucial.That's when your getting the most metal particles.That's why I do 500 miles first 2500to 3000 on second.The filter is most important anyone who says different I wouldn't listen to much they have to say.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:18 PM   #37
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Can we put 10w30 in the SS?
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:50 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by oilman63 View Post
I disagree.The oil filter in the first oil change is crucial.That's when your getting the most metal particles.That's why I do 500 miles first 2500to 3000 on second.The filter is most important anyone who says different I wouldn't listen to much they have to say.
Your right i was a bit tired when i wrote that. This applies to break in on an engine only (that you yourself built), and this is for the first oil change that is no more than 500 miles not 1500. Leave the filter and run the full synthetic. Reason being is the filter still contains some of the break in oil, and will mix in some of the high zinc and phosphoris, that are great for cushioning. (im sure the factory does this sort of process before we ever recieve the car however). So for my first oil change on the 2010 its RP with ZDDP addative.

please forgive me, im on alot of forums, and my sbc thought process flairs up here from time to time.

oilman if you feel different than what i have posted then by all means do not listen to me. As i stated before everyone should do their own research. I have found what works for me and that is what i do. I have IMO a nice fleet of cars, all run as perfect as when they were new. If you do something different then great, but i will certainly never try to make a fool out of you by indirectly saying your thoughts are not worth a damn.
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Old 08-18-2009, 01:02 PM   #39
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I agree that ZDDP is crucial for some engines, especially flat tappet SBC/BBC applications. Does an engine like the LS3 benefit from ZDDP? It has a full roller valvetrain that certainly doesn't benefit from added zinc.

I thought ZDDP primarily helped boundary layer lubrication, it doesn't do anything for hydrodynamic bearings.
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:32 PM   #40
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5W30 or 10W30?
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:03 PM   #41
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5w30
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:02 PM   #42
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when should i change ? i have 75% oil left and 2500 miles ..
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