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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 02-01-2010, 08:31 PM   #101
strobi
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Mobil1 for me...around here you have to special order RP or amsoil....screw that $9 a quart stuff I change every 3000 and a 5 quart jug at Walmart is $22
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:53 PM   #102
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Oil Test Ranking Top 7, Amsoil SS 0w-30,Pennzoil Platinum 5w30,Castrol Syntec 0w-30,Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-30,Quaker State Full Synthetic 5w-30,Havoline 5w-30,Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30. I might go buy a case of Penzoil Platinum I have seen it at Wal Mart.I just got a case of Amsoil SS 0W-30 delivered to my doorstep so no rush but I like to know what a good alternative is just in case I need oil at the last minute.As a preffered Customer the Asmsoil SS (Signature Series ) Runs $8.10 a quart.
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:54 PM   #103
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That was the Ball wear Test rankings. Top 7 oils Above.
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:02 AM   #104
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Sooooo, after all the banter, which Synthetic Differential oil should someone use if you choose to go with Mobile 1?

1 qt Mobile1 LS 75W90
1 qt Mobile1 GL-5 75W90

And do both require the use of the Friction Modifier?

Friction Modifier GM Part No 1052358
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:12 PM   #105
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It is always interesting to follow "experts opinions" on oils. Look up the specs and performance of each product. Look up the RP lawsuit about false advertising too while you are at it at. The comments about the Amsoil XL line are interesting. Amsoil and Mobile did not care for folks using class 3 lubes to be called synthetic. It went against them and the government allows folks to call class 3 oils synthetic. So they joined the crowd. Amsoil has its line of XL oils for lube shops and people looking for less costly products. They list them as 7500 mile oils. Not 25,000 or 35,000 like their other products. If a customer wants a cheaper, less quality product, then sell it to them. In the meantime just let them know about better quality if they desire it. Do some research and do not take everything posted by someone as gospel. In some cases you are dealing with opinions and not always facts.
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:16 PM   #106
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Some folks may want to consider how much they spend on changing their oil. Every 3000 is really not very cost effective. Do the math for a year. Run the good stuff and do oil analysis if you are concerned. You may find out some products could be worth $15 a quart considering length of service and extra benefits such as more HP, less heat - friction, more MPG, less maintenance.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:00 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman View Post
It is always interesting to follow "experts opinions" on oils. Look up the specs and performance of each product. Look up the RP lawsuit about false advertising too while you are at it at. The comments about the Amsoil XL line are interesting. Amsoil and Mobile did not care for folks using class 3 lubes to be called synthetic. It went against them and the government allows folks to call class 3 oils synthetic. So they joined the crowd. Amsoil has its line of XL oils for lube shops and people looking for less costly products. They list them as 7500 mile oils. Not 25,000 or 35,000 like their other products. If a customer wants a cheaper, less quality product, then sell it to them. In the meantime just let them know about better quality if they desire it. Do some research and do not take everything posted by someone as gospel. In some cases you are dealing with opinions and not always facts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman View Post
Some folks may want to consider how much they spend on changing their oil. Every 3000 is really not very cost effective. Do the math for a year. Run the good stuff and do oil analysis if you are concerned. You may find out some products could be worth $15 a quart considering length of service and extra benefits such as more HP, less heat - friction, more MPG, less maintenance.
You sound like an expert, can you answer my question?
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:07 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by DarricSS View Post
Sooooo, after all the banter, which Synthetic Differential oil should someone use if you choose to go with Mobile 1?

1 qt Mobile1 LS 75W90
1 qt Mobile1 GL-5 75W90

And do both require the use of the Friction Modifier?

Friction Modifier GM Part No 1052358
To answer your question, I believe the GL-5 has replaced the LS Mobil 1 and yes you need the friction modifier with it.

I would recommend you use something along the lines of RP, Amsoil or Redline for the differential as you dont need the FM. I personally used Redline.
Cheers
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:34 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by Moriartii View Post
To answer your question, I believe the GL-5 has replaced the LS Mobil 1 and yes you need the friction modifier with it.

I would recommend you use something along the lines of RP, Amsoil or Redline for the differential as you dont need the FM. I personally used Redline.
Cheers
K
Thanks, did the change a couple days ago and used Redline...
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:10 PM   #110
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Where class is the new Castrol Edge?

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Old 12-13-2010, 09:47 AM   #111
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So is the new Amsoil OE just a base 3 oil?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oef.aspx
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:22 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by afireinside View Post
So is the new Amsoil OE just a base 3 oil?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/oef.aspx
Yes.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #113
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Gees, I just wanted to know which oil is the best, I believe I have the solution, 2 quarts or Mobil 1, 2 quarts of AMSoil and 2 quarts of Royal Purple. Now, do I need a zinc additive?
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:02 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarricSS View Post
Sooooo, after all the banter, which Synthetic Differential oil should someone use if you choose to go with Mobile 1?

1 qt Mobile1 LS 75W90
1 qt Mobile1 GL-5 75W90

And do both require the use of the Friction Modifier?

Friction Modifier GM Part No 1052358

Mobil 1 LS 75w-90 is what you want. It already has the friction modifier in it.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:04 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by HaulnSS View Post
Gees, I just wanted to know which oil is the best, I believe I have the solution, 2 quarts or Mobil 1, 2 quarts of AMSoil and 2 quarts of Royal Purple. Now, do I need a zinc additive?


I would love to see the used oil analysis after 4k miles using that mix of oils.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:50 PM   #116
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I don't put many miles on in a year so a yearly change is what I do. I tried to educate myself researching and go with what is a good choice for me. I ended up buying rp in 5w30 which is superior to the mobile 1. Here is something I read that put me at ease on the phos/zinc additive:
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:25 AM   #117
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yes mobile 1 is not a rel synthetic.

All synthetics are not equal. The API has not come out and defined what is "synthetic", but rather, classified oils into five major groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity.

Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. Amsoil XM Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. Amsoil Synthetics and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III. (Can you say profit margin! Grab your ankles and sing along!)

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not full into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III, highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III
basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can be marketed as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.

I have kept my big mouth shut for awhile until I could develop some decent "proof" of what I suspected. Mobil1 is no longer a 100% Group IV Synthetic PAO basestock. This all started post Katrina when Mobil1 announced it's PAO plant was whacked hard. Virgin Oil Analysis began popping up on various boards refelcting Group III basestocks with drops of GroupIV PAO's. Pennzoil Platinum did the same thing....went to a Group III basestock in November 2005 by the way. And I do watch many boards and forums outside of BITOG.....(which has turned into a zoo by the way).....I read the corporate reports of Exxon-Mobil and Shell.....so I research and get my info from more than the Internet and VOA's....
I wrote a letter to Mobil asking if their basestock was still 100% Group IV and got a "canned response" like others word for word by the way....

" Mobil 1 motor oils are 100% synthetic, utilizing the PAO basestock and proprietary blend of additives that is tailored specifically for each viscosity. Mobil does not discuss specifics about our motor oil formulations."

You want to know why I have an issue with that statement? Because Mobil Pre-Katrina always said and advertised they used Group IV basestock exclusively. "Utilizing the PAO basestock...." is not the same as "Exclusively using the PAO basestock..."......that is a change for sure....the other thing that has me convinced Mobil1 is now just another synthetic "blend" is they are now advertising they utilize "Synthetic Technology".... So.....Mobil in their Corporate Report admit to disaster at the plant that made the PAO basestock ( which Amsoil buys there by the way). VOA's clearly show a reformulation with Group III showing up. Mobil has changed the way they "express themselves" now. Mobil1 now sells it for like $5-$6 bucks a quart for a Synthetic Blend oil. And that is a rip off as they are now just as guilty as those they sued and litigated against years ago.

I remain an advocate that Mobil1 is good oil. However it is very very overpriced for what it is now. Lot better oils out there for less money for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmoky01
So what oil are you gonna run now Sarge? "Lot better oils out there for less money for sure." What oils are you speaking of?

Well ........ Full Synthetics
RedLine / Royal Purple Racing 21 or 41 / Amsoil/ Cosworth http://www.focussport.com/liquidcosworth.htm
Synthetic Blends
Shaffers http://www.schaefferoil.com/ or Pennzoil Platinum
Dino
Castrol GTX or Havoline
Sarges High Performance Soup
6qts Castrol GTX
3oz AutoRX http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
8ozs Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=21

Just in......from a "oil board" and the author is a known chemist guru.....

Okay boys and girls, take a seat cause you aren't going to like this.

The new M1 EP 5W-30 SM dated Oct 2006 just came out of the G.C. and it is MOSTLY mineral oil, presumably Group III. It also contains a good slug of AN and some PAO, but little or no ester. Will have more data tomorrow.

And Mobil has changed its spec sheets on the 5-30 EP....
"PAO + hydroprocessed."
BY the way GC is Gas Chromatograph....cuts through the sh1t machine

After all these years of Mobil1 crying about other "Synthetic Blend" brands selling as Full Synthetics.....they go and do this.....just goes to show you what money and greed will do.

Originally Posted by Wulfe13
I've always used Valvoline Full Synthetic.... it is Full synthetic, if it says full synthetic, right??? No...less that 25% is PAO....rest is mineral basestock.....sorry... Only true synthetics I know here in the states are RedLine/Amsoil/Royal Purple Racing Oils....oh yeah and Cosworth.....but don't get all caught up in "what is 100% synthetic"......blends and dino's are fine....it is all in the add packs....I'm pissed at Mobil1 cuz they are charging a xxxxload for a GroupIII product...and are a bunch of hypocrites to boot. $6.00 a quart for that xxxx? My xxx! Courts said a hydro cracked dino can be called 100% synthetic....that is how they get away with that. And FWIW I have 6 qts of Valvoline Synpower 10-30 sloshing around in my Dodge R/T right now....good oil....got it on sale for $2 bucks a quart

And Amsoil lil baby xxx aint clean in all this either...I'm still pissed at them over their XL lines of oils....The XL line is Group III, and Amsoil calls it synthetic. Before that line came out Amsoil made a big deal about how Group III isn't really synthetic, blah blah blah. But when they introduce their own Group III oil, it's somehow now synthetic. Now Amsoil ATM is still 100% synthetic... https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx but the XL is Group III https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlt.aspx
10W30 may be a better oil to use IF, as the article states, you are experiencing temperatures approaching 300F, or the ambient temperature is on top of the scale. I have run 5W30, 10W30, and even 20W50. Viscosity grades are simply a range of possible thicknesses of an oil. In other words these are merely thinner weight oils depending upon application and ambient temperature. This is, as you stated, an older article (Perhaps 1993). It states that 10W30 Mobil 1 is a synthetic, which is true to a degree (no pun intended). Mobil 1 is no longer a true synthetic, not since New Orleans at least.

Synthetic vs mineral oil bases:

Synthetic oils tend to retain a more consistent viscosity over a wider temperature range. In mineral oils, the additives to create multi grade oils can be in there in quantities that approach the amount of slippery stuff. Viscosity improver's are not lubricants as such, and the fact that synthetic oils need less of this can have 2 results. 1) There is more room in the package for more actual oil or slippery stuff and 2) You can cover a wider temperature range with the same amount of viscosity improver when compared to mineral oil.

Synthetic oils tend to be more resistant to oxidation (the effect on oil exposed to heat and air). They can either have less antioxidant in them, or they can last longer at higher temperatures for the same level of degradation of the base oil.

"In mineral oils, the additives to create multi grade oils can be in there in quantities that approach the amount of slippery stuff" - A typical mineral 4T motor oil will contain 5-10% performance additives (detergents/dispersants, antioxidants, anti-wear agents, corrosion inhibitors, PPDs, antifoam and friction modifiers) and 5-15% viscosity index (VI) improvers, leaving 75-85% base oils. It is true that synthetic base stocks, with their higher native VI's require less VI improver than GIs and GIIs for the same multi-grade spread, and several synthetic products are out there that achieve modest multi-grade requirements yet apparently contain no VI improvers.

Synthetic is the term used to describe the base oils which are used to make the final product, it does not include the additives. There are many types of full synthetics but for engine oils there are typically two. 1) PAO ( poly alpha olephin) which is man made from small gas type molecules which are chemically combined to form larger oil molecules. This gives a very uniform fluid with predictable qualities, but at a cost. 2) Hydro-treated oils. These are severely purified and chemically altered mineral base stocks or waxes. These too have a uniform structure and predictable behavior but are not as "PURE" as the PAO. However are much more cost effective and for most of us, offer the high level of protection we want for our bits of gear but without hitting the hip pocket as hard. Then there are the semi synthetics which combine mineral base oils with some amount of synthetic base oil to improve the performance. These are about third on this list in terms of oxidation stability etc.

Here’s a quick look a one particular test conducted:
Data Source: Horsepower TV
Description of Test: Replaced existing 5W30 synthetic engine oil, GM Dexron III® ATF mineral oil and 75W90 synthetic differential fluid with Royal Purple's 5W30 Motor Oil, Synchromax® manual transmission fluid and Max-Gear® 75W90 in a 2000 Camaro SS and tested on full chassis dynamometer. Result: 2.9% HP gain.

From the Royal Purple site: RP recommends following the manufacturer’s maintenance intervals while the vehicle is under factory warranty. In clean engines that are no longer under warranty, oil change intervals may be extended up to every 12,000 miles or annually, whichever comes first. Oil filter changes should be done as recommended by the filter's manufacturer and oil should be topped-off as needed.

In dirty engines, Royal Purple recommends standard 3,000 to 5,000 mile oil and filter change intervals until the engine oiling system is clean and free of deposits left by lower quality oils and / or poor maintenance or mechanical problems. This will allow time to gradually remove existing deposits without overloading the oiling system. Mechanical problems such as fuel dilution, coolant leaks into the crankcase, poor air filtration and / or failure to maintain proper oil level are all detrimental factors to the service life of any engine oil. Any one of these factors can significantly shorten the useful service life of any oil.

5W30 versus 10W30

Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.

Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?

Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.

Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?

According to www.cartalk.com, as well as many mechanics who have posted on USENET, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. It would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.

Thicker is Better Myth

The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.

In summary:

Just about any motor oil you can buy over the counter today is far superior to the very best racing oil of the 60's, 70's, 80's, etc., with few exceptions. In my opinion, it's the service interval that really determines how well the lubricant performs in any individual engine or application. I stick with the 5W30 because I still change at 3000 miles and I have documented an increase in MPG and a noticeable difference in performance by switching to RP 5W30. The above aricle has good points but one must remember that it is more than 10 years old and a lot has changed in regards to oil properties over just the past five years... It all boils down to running what you want to run.

Nearly everyone I know has switched from MOBIL 1 and now runs Royal Purple, 5W30.
quoted from a friend
Why would my owner's manual call for 5W-50 synthetic? It is a 2010 and although I'm sure the tolerances are tighter now in 2014, there is a pretty big difference between the 5W-20 conventional my 2011 GT called for and the 5W-50 synthetic used in the 2010 Shelby GT500. Why such a huge variation of oil for both having V8 engines? Not baiting or trolling you; I would really just like an opinion. Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:52 AM   #118
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Why would my owner's manual call for 5W-50 synthetic? It is a 2010 and although I'm sure the tolerances are tighter now in 2014, there is a pretty big difference between the 5W-20 conventional my 2011 GT called for and the 5W-50 synthetic used in the 2010 Shelby GT500. Why such a huge variation of oil for both having V8 engines? Not baiting or trolling you; I would really just like an opinion. Thanks.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...akes-5w50.html

Track pack use also recommends 5w-50 for 2013+. This is a peculiarity with the Ford engine design IMO. For us, I think its whether to use a synthetic 5w-30 (some viscosity improvers) or 10w-30 (often no viscosity improvers).

I use Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck in our 2004 Land Rover V-8, which has a flat tappet cam and specs a 40 weight. Best oil around IMO if looking for a 40 weight.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:57 AM   #119
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To me the best synthetic oil to use is which ever fits your pocket book. Mobil 1 has made me very happy for years and my Impala SS and Camaro will see nothing other unless my dealership changes there stock.

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Old 08-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #120
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i just did my 500 mile oil change at almost 800 miles and i used quaker state synthetic is that ok or not i see alot of oils mentioned but not quaker state.
Quaker State is owned by Shell now (along with Pennzoil). It was reformulated a few years ago and is considered very good now from what I have seen. If the product you used is on this list you are all set:

http://www.gmdexos.com/licensedbrand...sedbrands.html
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:11 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by wakespeak View Post
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...akes-5w50.html

Track pack use also recommends 5w-50 for 2013+. This is a peculiarity with the Ford engine design IMO. For us, I think its whether to use a synthetic 5w-30 (some viscosity improvers) or 10w-30 (often no viscosity improvers).

I use Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck in our 2004 Land Rover V-8, which has a flat tappet cam and specs a 40 weight. Best oil around IMO if looking for a 40 weight.
I am very grateful you showed me this thread because now I am pissed. I was always suspicious of that dino oil 5W-20 with a 10,000 mile drain interval. I'm in Florida, and I am to believe that a conventional 5W-20 oil will stand up to the April-October heat for 10,000 miles? Oh, and when I checked my oil at 6,000 miles, I found as many other Coyote engine owners did it was 1 quart low. On the first and second changes. If I hadn't checked at 6K, it might have been almost 2 quarts low. Ford's response? You have 8 quarts in that engine so losing some isn't a cause for concern. So, a 412 hp, 390 ft lb torque engine with 11:1 compression should use the same oil as a Tercel in Montana? This was treachery at its most vile. They made an actuarial calculation that a very attractive feature of the GT was its price, and they just lowered greatly the cost of maintenance. They probably also assumed some would modify the engines thus absolving Ford of any warranty responsibility. The 5?W-20 would give them oh say 0.3 extra mpg for their CAFE standards and the owner would be rid of it by the time it wore out anyway. I'd be very curious to know what Ford engineers who had 2011-2012 GT's ran in their engines? And as far as the Track Package, unlike the SS 1 LE, you get no performance upgrades with the GT's package. None. All you get is an oil cooler (and that is good), some Italian seats, and extra electronics to time your laps. The engines are otherwise exactly the same. I was an engineer and a chemist at one time, and I know first hand how compromises have to be made and they come from people who couldn't give the physics definition of torque if their lives depended on it. There is absolutely no way any dino 5W-20 oil is going to hold up for 10,000 miles the way a 5W-50 synthetic will hold up for 7,500 miles which is the Shelby's recommended drain interval. And if those oil squirters were soooooo great at keeping a uniform coating of oil dispersed to every cylinder at all times, speeds, turns, etc., why did they take them out? I think my Shelby iron block will last a whole lot longer than the 2011-2012 GT that runs dino 5W-20. And I think losing over a quart of oil between changes on a brand new engine is a cause for concern. That is supposed to happen at the end of an engine's life, not the start. Maybe I'm wrong about all of this and should keep a lid on it, but i asked as soon as I saw that 5W-20 cap on my 2011 GT and now in 2013 they do what I suspected should have been done all along. Motorcraft 5W-20 conventional is not thick enough to handle the strain these engines will put on it. This was a move made strictly by accountants and project managers not engineers. I'm done I promise. My questions have now after almost 3 years been answered. Thanks man. I appreciate your research.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:14 PM   #122
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Pennzoil platinum for me
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:35 PM   #123
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good thread, subscribed.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemmy View Post
I am very grateful you showed me this thread because now I am pissed. I was always suspicious of that dino oil 5W-20 with a 10,000 mile drain interval. I'm in Florida, and I am to believe that a conventional 5W-20 oil will stand up to the April-October heat for 10,000 miles? Oh, and when I checked my oil at 6,000 miles, I found as many other Coyote engine owners did it was 1 quart low. On the first and second changes. If I hadn't checked at 6K, it might have been almost 2 quarts low. Ford's response? You have 8 quarts in that engine so losing some isn't a cause for concern. So, a 412 hp, 390 ft lb torque engine with 11:1 compression should use the same oil as a Tercel in Montana? This was treachery at its most vile. They made an actuarial calculation that a very attractive feature of the GT was its price, and they just lowered greatly the cost of maintenance. They probably also assumed some would modify the engines thus absolving Ford of any warranty responsibility. The 5?W-20 would give them oh say 0.3 extra mpg for their CAFE standards and the owner would be rid of it by the time it wore out anyway. I'd be very curious to know what Ford engineers who had 2011-2012 GT's ran in their engines? And as far as the Track Package, unlike the SS 1 LE, you get no performance upgrades with the GT's package. None. All you get is an oil cooler (and that is good), some Italian seats, and extra electronics to time your laps. The engines are otherwise exactly the same. I was an engineer and a chemist at one time, and I know first hand how compromises have to be made and they come from people who couldn't give the physics definition of torque if their lives depended on it. There is absolutely no way any dino 5W-20 oil is going to hold up for 10,000 miles the way a 5W-50 synthetic will hold up for 7,500 miles which is the Shelby's recommended drain interval. And if those oil squirters were soooooo great at keeping a uniform coating of oil dispersed to every cylinder at all times, speeds, turns, etc., why did they take them out? I think my Shelby iron block will last a whole lot longer than the 2011-2012 GT that runs dino 5W-20. And I think losing over a quart of oil between changes on a brand new engine is a cause for concern. That is supposed to happen at the end of an engine's life, not the start. Maybe I'm wrong about all of this and should keep a lid on it, but i asked as soon as I saw that 5W-20 cap on my 2011 GT and now in 2013 they do what I suspected should have been done all along. Motorcraft 5W-20 conventional is not thick enough to handle the strain these engines will put on it. This was a move made strictly by accountants and project managers not engineers. I'm done I promise. My questions have now after almost 3 years been answered. Thanks man. I appreciate your research.
Yes I became very cynical about Ford's motives when I reviewed their CAFE stats on compliance and saw that they met it to the .1 MPG. So a tenth of an MPG really does affect them. CAFE is a dumb way to manage fuel demand (via car supply), but that's a different thread. I do feel more comfortable with Chevy not cutting corners with their 30 weight requirements but CAFE still got us a 3.45 instead of 3.91 rear end, and skip shift .
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #125
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From what I understand Mobil 1 and Castrol synthetics are molecule cracked (hydro cracked) to create a synthetic base stock instead of the so called RP that uses a chemical based stock which is considered more expensive.

Since the powers to be told Castrol it was OK to call it a synthetic Mobil 1 followed. Is it or isn't it a real synthetic? That up to you.

To me Mobil 1 is fine for all my Chevy's including my newly bought Camaro. I'm not gonna miss any sleep wondering which is the finest synthetic. It's all based on getting the best product for what I can afford.

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