Supercharger / Turbocharger Results (INFO) Thread

[2010 SS RS]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Yeah. I really like Hotchkis, it would have been nice if they had bushing kits too. However, sometimes good to mix / match so your not stuck with one vendor. So, I have Hotchkis springs, sway bars, chassis / strut braces, and end-links, will go with Phadt for all their bushings. Like Pedders too but their way too complicated with all the varying versions of their products.
Problem for me is if I were close to these vendors I could just go by and say hello as in your case, for me they're not located anywhere in Canada, so have to do research, discuss with installer and take a chance.
I will tell you though, the Hotchkis kit made a huge difference until I got the new CAM and got an additional 50-60rwhps., and then wheels spinning, hops are occassiion but want to reduce any chances of hopping considering I know this creates potential to break things.

I pretty much ran Nitto 555R drag radials all summer..street and track. Love them and they really eliminated wheel hop entirely. I still have stock suspension and stock half shafts....And ran all summer with 580RWHP and 580 Torque. Maybe 150 passes at the 1/4 mile track and 200 road course miles. But want the suspension upgrades to get me better 60 ft times now.

[runt69421]

so heres the deal, once i get back from afganistan, my 2010 camaro ss will be payed off in full and i was woundering, should i do supercharger or turbocharger, i wana do cams, headers and exhaust, how much and what kind, need help plz, i have a black 2010 camaro ss, LS99

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by runt69421

so heres the deal, once i get back from afganistan, my 2010 camaro ss will be payed off in full and i was woundering, should i do supercharger or turbocharger, i wana do cams, headers and exhaust, how much and what kind, need help plz, i have a black 2010 camaro ss, LS99

Do supercharger, you can have heads, CAM and don't have to re-route exhaust for a supercharger, it's all bolt on and go. Turbos' require exhaust to run, and therefore really complicated to route exhause pipes, etc.....
However, turbos do provide higher end power, than a supercharger.

[alab32]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Do supercharger, you can have heads, CAM and don't have to re-route exhaust for a supercharger, it's all bolt on and go. Turbos' require exhaust to run, and therefore really complicated to route exhause pipes, etc.....
However, turbos do provide higher end power, than a supercharger.

Also, if you get turbos you cant do long tubes, you have to do shorties. I want a twin turbo kit but this is all about personal opinion.

[SSE 4 2SS]

You dont "have" to do shorties...There are at least two kits out there that use the stock exhaust manifolds... The turbos bolt onto them.

I am having a Twin Turbo set up put on my car right after the new year... We are building custom one off exhaust manifolds with stainless tubing, mandrel bent, and hand welded. They will have half inch flanges on both ends. It doesn't make sense to hang 1500 HP worth of turbos on 600 HP worth of exhaust manifolds.

We are also building the short block, heads, and installing axles and a clutch. After I have this done, I'm going hunting for a suspension kit to help get the power to the ground.

850 or more RWHP is very possible... I'll have it back by mid Feb or so, as soon as I get back from my next trip to Brazil...

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

You dont "have" to do shorties...There are at least two kits out there that use the stock exhaust manifolds... The turbos bolt onto them.

I am having a Twin Turbo set up put on my car right after the new year... We are building custom one off exhaust manifolds with stainless tubing, mandrel bent, and hand welded. They will have half inch flanges on both ends. It doesn't make sense to hang 1500 HP worth of turbos on 600 HP worth of exhaust manifolds.

We are also building the short block, heads, and installing axles and a clutch. After I have this done, I'm going hunting for a suspension kit to help get the power to the ground.

850 or more RWHP is very possible... I'll have it back by mid Feb or so, as soon as I get back from my next trip to Brazil...

Dude. You're practically builing a whole new engine. I'd like a crate 454 as a baseline too, but that's not going to happen anytime soon. Not sure if that's what the OP had in mind also.
But, very, very .

[alab32]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

You dont "have" to do shorties...There are at least two kits out there that use the stock exhaust manifolds... The turbos bolt onto them.

I am having a Twin Turbo set up put on my car right after the new year... We are building custom one off exhaust manifolds with stainless tubing, mandrel bent, and hand welded. They will have half inch flanges on both ends. It doesn't make sense to hang 1500 HP worth of turbos on 600 HP worth of exhaust manifolds.

We are also building the short block, heads, and installing axles and a clutch. After I have this done, I'm going hunting for a suspension kit to help get the power to the ground.

850 or more RWHP is very possible... I'll have it back by mid Feb or so, as soon as I get back from my next trip to Brazil...

He wanted headers... this is why i said it would have to be shorties...

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

Well……you know what they say about opinions . Everyone has one. Here are mine as it relates to the above. Perhaps I should tell everyone what makes me uniquely qualified to address this issue. I am J.R. Granatelli, Owner of Granatelli Motor Sports. I have grown up in the forced induction world literally all my life. I have raced turbocharged Indy Cars, I have co-own my own Indy Car team but more to the point I worked at Paxton Superchargers from 1982 to 1990 and then purchased the company June 1990 and sold the company July of 1998. While all that had transpired, Jim Middlebrook, the owner of Vortech was my employee at Paxton and we gave him is first start in centrifugal supercharging as well. In 1982 we built a twin Paxton blown small block Chevy and installed it into my ’82 daily driver Camaro. We ran 204mph and set many records. However, even though I worked at Paxton I was always fascinated with Turbochargers - I removed the twin Paxton set up and installed twin 62mm turbos. We built 2 motors, 1 for the Camaro and 1 for a Caprice Classic 4 door (want to set both records) The simply by removing the Paxtons and installing the turbos we gained 180hp for a total of 950hp (seems like not so much today but we are talking about 1983 when this happened) The Camaro ran 261 and the Caprice ended up setting the 4 door record as well at 218 with 4 passengers too.

After selling Paxton in 1998 I went full speed ahead into the turbocharger business. We build and designed kits for many of the most popular GM, Ford and Dodge applications and many custom kits as well. In 2001 Ford had us build a Paxton Blown 4v Modular engine to go drag racing under their banner and again using 1 Novi 2000 supercharger (which I designed when I still owned Paxton) we made 1080hp. Again I removed the Paxton and installed 1 101mm turbo and made 1480hp.

Fast Forward to 2006 – I was approached by Jerry Magnuson to help work on the Eaton type Roots/Rotor/Screw type blowers. While this was a new path for us, I was more then eager to learn about this form of forced induction as well – now here comes my opinion….

CamBoy – I say NO WAY do you install a centrifugal on your V6. Centrifugals make boost linear to engine RPM. That means down low the centrifugal will not satisfy you – With the V6 you need to make up for the lack of Grunt (torque) right off the line. I think a turbo kit we be awesome for your requirement or a Magnuson type blower. I really don’t know anyone that offers a nice direct fit as off today. We are going to work on the V6 turbo kit as soon s the V8 is done. Whoever does build or sell you a forced inductions kit will most likely offer it with the appropriate air intake to go with it. I know Lingenfelter was working on V6 stuff but I am sure the prices will be stiff too. As for taking out a 370hp Dodge RT – I would say YES for sure that will be plausible

Riderover40 – To each his own – I hear what you’re saying but just a few things. Turbolag is a thing of the past. There is no such thing anymore as turbolag. When sized properly to the application it just isn’t there

Look at the dyno graph below -



I understand it is for a Mustang but it paints a perfect picture of how a perfectly sized turbo has no lag – even as low as 2600 the engine has picked up 60hp – that shows the boost is already there – in fact, 60hp at 2600 is a gain of 52% - that means this engine had at least 7psi by 2600 on its way to 10psi total. Turbos are as reliable and durable are any supercharger too. HEAT – I agree if you mount a turbo up by the valve cover there is extra unwanted heat and that needs to be factored in. We typically mount the turbos down low and heat is a non factor –

As for looks – I agree a Maggy in the center of the engine is hard to beat for looks – it looks clean – but so does a nice twin turbo system – as for centrifugal blowers like Paxton, Vortech and Procharger – they make but loads of top end power – probably the most but they look like they are out of place. – We agree on that

GenetX – If you have a V8 2010 and want all a great package – you cant go wrong with an off the shelf TVS2300 from Magnuson – with that said at 7.5 psi they make 450 to the tires in the real world – that works out to be 560 at the crank. If you plan to go over that - you need more than just the kit as delivered – like smaller blower pulley – voids warranty on blower, plus headers and perhaps a cam change. It is easy to make 550 at the tires with the TVS2300 but it takes more than just a standard kit with a 2 or 3 year warranty. The turbo on the other hand has proven to be a real 500 hp to the tires at just 5.5 psi and even 600 at 8psi. Single or twin – twin makes more power down low and package better – it is just a matter of moving air from point A to point T – (throttle body) - Wait until you see the twin turbo kit GMS and TTi are working on. It is worth the wait (4 more weeks)

Hope a few read this and take it for what it is worth – in the end you can’t make a bad choice - short of putting a centrifugal on a 6 cylinder – don’t do it.

SO we all know I am being totally honest – Yes I agree below 3k a Maggie is KING. After that the turbos win hands down. If what you want is a great car that is silky smooth down low and make BALLS out power on the Top – the centrifugal is great.

This thread certainly has legs - it has been around for a very long time and I like how there is still a contingent of guys that focus on forced induction

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by LightsoutSS

Granatelli vs. Hellion?

This question has been asked and answered over and over. Naturally we are prejudice as to our opinion but I will take a stab at it again

Just looking at each kit side by side tells a big part of the story. Our fit and finish, our design and layout and most importantly, our end results speak volumes.

GMS uses Bell Engineering Intercooler cores. They are hand built and have been regarded as the best of the best in terms of air flow vs. pressure drop and inlet vs. outlet temp efficiency. We use the largest, custom fitting parts that are designed around the frontal area of the Camaro.






The competitiors use a simple generic intercooling system designed by Vibrant

http://www.vibrantperformance.com/main.php

The parts are pretty but not "custom" by any stretch of the imagination. Side by side, again, it is easy to see the real difference. You can also see it at the wheels. Lbs. for lbs of boost the difference shows up exponentially.

Turbos - Turbonetics makes nice stuff - there is no denying. We offer and sell many kits using thier product. However when it came time build the ultimate TT kit for the Camaro Platform, we looked no further than our own past 10 years experience of racing and designing LS engine single and twin turbo systems. Here is a video that shows our off the shelf TT kit we sold in years past for the C5 and C6 Corvette



Here is a proven bolt on 1000hp and 1100ft/lbs twin turbo kit. You will note both our Camaro and Corvette kit use the same intercooler core layout proving there efficiency and room for growth. At the end of the video, you will note we ran this with Turbonetics turbos. We saw and know where the turbos give up and what kind of boost it takes to make those numbers. Therefore when the 2010 Camaro kit was designed we went directly to the Precision PTE 6265 turbos. Each turbo is capable of 650 to 676 hp at only 15psi meaning our kit WILL MAKE 1300hp plus HP at only 15psi. That is 300hp more then the Turbonetics turbos at the same boost and that translate to better efficiency and better power down low in the REAL Area of the curve that 90% of us are looking for.

You get what you pay for – Simply put we use better parts and better material through the kit and that translates into a $1000 price hike over the other kit. When you go to install the kit you see the difference and after you have had the kit for 6 months you really come to appreciate the kit even more so.

Compound that with the fact we hard pipe and properly design a custom intake for each turbo to insure they always get fresh cool clean air and you have a winner. All too often when kits are designed they forget about the air going into the turbos – We Did Not

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Yeah. I really like Hotchkis, it would have been nice if they had bushing kits too. However, sometimes good to mix / match so your not stuck with one vendor. So, I have Hotchkis springs, sway bars, chassis / strut braces, and end-links, will go with Phadt for all their bushings. Like Pedders too but their way too complicated with all the varying versions of their products.
Problem for me is if I were close to these vendors I could just go by and say hello as in your case, for me they're not located anywhere in Canada, so have to do research, discuss with installer and take a chance.
I will tell you though, the Hotchkis kit made a huge difference until I got the new CAM and got an additional 50-60rwhps., and then wheels spinning, hops are occassiion but want to reduce any chances of hopping considering I know this creates potential to break things.

Have you seen the new stuff GMS came out with as it relates to rear suspension parts

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Do supercharger, you can have heads, CAM and don't have to re-route exhaust for a supercharger, it's all bolt on and go. Turbos' require exhaust to run, and therefore really complicated to route exhaust pipes, etc.....
However, turbos do provide higher end power, than a supercharger.

Not to sound like a broken record anymore than the rest of the crowd that keeps perpetuation that turbos “require” rerouting the exhaust but…..You do not have to re route the exhaust with any of the twin turbo kits being sold. Granatelli, Hellion and the others ALL send you the assembly



It all comes assembled – just bolt it to the stock manifold and the back slide into your stock or aftermarket exhaust system – you can even pre order with 2.5” or 3” collectors

Originally Posted by alab32

Also, if you get turbos you cant do long tubes, you have to do shorties. I want a twin turbo kit but this is all about personal opinion.

Headers do not help – you do not need headers – especially with the turbo. The factory cast iron manifolds are golden and do the job very well. I get confused and bewildered when I read that header in some peoples mind are an absolute MOST. They are not and create more headache than they are worth in most cases. Not to mention on the dyno below 500rwhp they have not been proven to make power at all. Sure you can read posts that say “ I installed my XYZ headers and had the car tuned and picked up 20 plus hp” But 95% of that power comes from the tune not the headers. There have been countless tests done on this and headers have not proven to make any significant difference. Other than make the engine louder and magnifying the valve train noise. – Please do not get me wrong, I am not against headers. I am always for anything that gets you even ½ a hp but one has the weigh the good and bad associated with any part and headers are as much a trade off as they are a gain. This engine made 725hp and 775 ft/lbs with headers. Well it also made 714hp and 760 ft/lbs with stock manifolds – was it worth it? YOU decide

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

You don’t "have" to do shorties...There are at least two kits out there that use the stock exhaust manifolds... The turbos bolt onto them. ...

Yep

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

I am having a Twin Turbo set up put on my car right after the New Year... We are building custom one off exhaust manifolds with stainless tubing, mandrel bent, and hand welded. They will have half inch flanges on both ends. It doesn't make sense to hang 1500 HP worth of turbos on 600 HP worth of exhaust manifolds.

We are also building the short block, heads, and installing axles and a clutch. After I have this done, I'm going hunting for a suspension kit to help get the power to the ground.

850 or more RWHP is very possible... I'll have it back by mid Feb or so, as soon as I get back from my next trip to Brazil...

If you go as far and ½ flanges then great but in the end, I still contend it makes an insignificant difference – at up to 1300 proven hp

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

Have you seen the new stuff GMS came out with as it relates to rear suspension parts

So, if I were to take a guess I'd say these are aftermarket rear control arms that replace the stock one that looks like it came from a piece of sheet metal.
However, why two different styles?

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

So, if I were to take a guess I'd say these are aftermarket rear control arms that replace the stock one that looks like it came from a piece of sheet metal.
However, why two different styles?

Top is stock

Middle is Chrome moly with forged ends

Bottom is Billet

[Motown Machine]

How practical are exhaust cutouts with a TT setup?

[Boostpatrol]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

Brian -

Please don't get me wrong - I am torn between multiple lovers here. You and the world know how I feel about the Novi-2000. I think the centrifugal certainly has its place in the market - hell I spent what seems like my entire life pushing and talking about centrifugals. When I sold Paxton - I kept the Novi blowers on all my cars and boat with the exception on my 1997 Tahoe which was my first attempt since the 1982 Camaro at Turbo charging. With a very wimpy Turbonetics 60-1 turbo. I made 10hp more then the Novi at 6psi and 112 ft/lbs more. At 10psi the Novi was making 38hp more then the baby turbo (2.5" inlet on turbo vs 4.00" inlet on Novi-2000) but the turbo still managed 104ft/lbs more. So as a truck owner towing a boat - The turbo was king. At the drag strip - you can image what happened.

As any drag racer on the planet if they would trade 38hp for 100 ft/lbs. - Anyone with any experience knows 100ft/lbs in barge like SUV trumps 40 hp every time.

Look at the turbo system on the orange car a few posts back, it packages as nice as any centrifugal kit I have seen so far for the Camaro. But knowing what I know and seeing what the dyno results are



8psi - 484hp / 421ft/lbs - Centrifugal
7psi - 560hp / 606ft/lbs - Turbo

Hard to argue with +76hp & +185ft/lbs of the turbo system

Personally since I never drive a car past 5k miles I would run the turbo if these were my only 2 choices. However if this was my true daily driver and only car - it would be hard to argue that the Vortech system is not the safer of the 2. I would love to be proven wrong but I think hanging a huge ass turbo in that location is definitely a MEGA heater and will take it toll on the surrounding areas - so for that reason I agree the Centrifugal is a great choice.

However - mounting twin smaller 68mm turbos down low like these:

http://www.gmsvideos.com/featured_la...php?reset=true

is a totally different story - There is no heat issues because the air running under the car more then makes up for it - Even a centrifugal or screw blower on top of the motor adds heat - No where near what the turbo does but still MORE HEAT.

Now to address the specifics of the 1000's of happy 350Z and G35 customers and quite a few 4.0L Mustang owners. Have they had a chance to compare to a turbo in the same application?

Listen to the Vortech You tube video and the GMS video back to back - you can hear how quick the turbo motor "ramps” the torque number down low on the centrifugal can't come close to the turbo.

I am not saying the centrifugal is a bad choice - I am saying a turbo on a v6 (that already is giving up bottom end) is a better choice when it comes to torque and torque moves the car - AND the centrifugal does not add noticeable torque down low where the v6 needs it

torque is king when u have a camaro or G8 thats 4000 lbs. My old stock with dod l76 made 616whp at 5000 rpm and 649 wtq at 3700 rpm on 10 psi on pump gas. Cant beat that to get a tank rolling!!!! STS 60-1 twins....

[Z_Rocks]

Originally Posted by Motown Machine

How practical are exhaust cutouts with a TT setup?

I'd say very practical, if there are placed close to the release of the turbos. As long as there is no back pressure on the release side, those turbos will spin freely and much quicker and response is much faster.

To me, the cutouts, specially the good ones like NoWeeds.net when connected to stock exhaust, you get the best of both worlds. In normal driving and cursing, it's quiet and no drone like you get from open exhaust and as soon as you want to have fun, click a switch and you get 3" open exhaust at your finger tips.

Just be sure the tune is made for it, sine you get the boost much earlier than stock and you should have fuel much earlier too.

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by Motown Machine

How practical are exhaust cutouts with a TT setup?

Turbo are like mufflers anyway - exh cut outs would help marginally for performance

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by Boostpatrol

torque is king when u have a camaro or G8 thats 4000 lbs. My old stock with dod l76 made 616whp at 5000 rpm and 649 wtq at 3700 rpm on 10 psi on pump gas. Cant beat that to get a tank rolling!!!! STS 60-1 twins....

Torque is ALWAYS KING

STS is nice but will always lag compared to the turbs mounted off the manifolds up front

[Silver2SSRS6spd]

Just had my 2010 LS3 dynotuned after installing a Maggie 2300 last week. I have the Maggie, K&N CAI and Stainless Works Cat-Back and registered 490tq and 513hp on a conservative tune. Running stock pulley on SC, the boost measured 8+ peak.

[Camaro21]

Here is the latest Dyno for my car.. TVS2300, Kooks Headers, Stage II Blower Cam, ADM Street Cold Air Intake, 3.70 Gears, Innovators West 8-Rib Pulley System with 3.4 Blower Pulley and ADM Custom Dyno Tune.

ADM Performance ROCKS !!

[calbert1999]

Decided. Going with the D-1SC procharger. Estimating I'll make very close to 660rwhp. and close to 550tq. with very moderate and safe 6psi. of boost.
Cleaner, easier install (don't have to remove stock intake or modify engine cover), air-to-air intercooled, reduced detonation, no meth needed and much easier on the engine than higher boost numbers to achieve the same goals.
Can always increase boost with upgraded internals, and Procharger has a great warranty @3yrs. and a fabulous upgrade program to go from the lower end P-1, to the D-1SC or even the F-1 series.
Will start with the Stage II, with D-1SC upgrade, 12rib. serpentine, and custom race valve, with the massive intercooler, and the ADM dual-pump fuel kit.
Seen the HO system P-1 on an SS @6psi. make 640rwhp / 550lbtq. with very moderate tune, very safe, no BAP, no fuel, no meth, no detonation and sounds amazing.
Can't beat those options.
Have to admit though the Maggie looks cool, and the turbos look cool'er with all the complicated tubing.

[Granatelli]

Congrats on your choice but complicated tubing of a turbo? Have you seen the plumbing that goes into an intercooled centrifugal? It is the same as any other turbo or centrifugal running air to air intercooling with forced induction.

Plus to make 660 at only 6psi you will have to add headers and a not so mild tune. 6 psi is a 40% increase of stock. Assuming 100% efficiency at stock motor with headers that makes 410 to the tires will make 590. I agree you can get to 660 but that will not be a mild tune - it will be good pump gas and aggressive timing. No question the procharger can make big power over the Magnuson but you give up on torque down low and that is what all the maggie guys keep holding on too. Why not it is a wonderful thing

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by Granatelli

Congrats on your choice but complicated tubing of a turbo? Have you seen the plumbing that goes into an intercooled centrifugal? It is the same as any other turbo or centrifugal running air to air intercooling with forced induction.

Plus to make 660 at only 6psi you will have to add headers and a not so mild tune. 6 psi is a 40% increase of stock. Assuming 100% efficiency at stock motor with headers that makes 410 to the tires will make 590. I agree you can get to 660 but that will not be a mild tune - it will be good pump gas and aggressive timing. No question the procharger can make big power over the Magnuson but you give up on torque down low and that is what all the maggie guys keep holding on too. Why not it is a wonderful thing

My decision is based on a setup I've already seen and the piping doesn't look complicated at all.
My installer has done quite a few Maggies, Turbos, Meth, NO and ProCharger too. So, I have to take their experiences into consideration as well. When making my decision the cool factor and power gains are always part of the process, however the best decision for my engine has to take precedence, I think the ProCharger is the safest, most powerfull way to go.
My understanding is to stay away from knock sensors as much as possible, and seems like ProCharger behave really well in that area. Might have something to do with the intercooling system.
There is an intake to the SC, and the boost flows to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the TB, and a few other minor connections for run-off and cooling, and it's all in front of the the rad. Pretty simply to do except for removal of the front fender, but that needs to be done for any SC that has a cooling system anyway,
The part I'm concerned about most is all the work for the dual-pump system. Practically, taking the whole back end apart to get to the gas tank.
As for the rest I'm already setup with headers, exhaust and booster cam. So, making the 660rwhp. with about 500lbtq. low down should be enough. I haven't seen too many Maggie setups make much more than that down low without forged internals, and stroked engines. But, I do admit they do hold the TQ higher up. I guess there's always a bit of a trade off regardless of the system. But, if I wanted to I could always do like the maggie dudes, and increase the boost to 8-10psi., but I don't want to push it for a few extra lbs. of torque.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

My decision is based on a setup I've already seen and the piping doesn't look complicated at all.
My installer has done quite a few Maggies, Turbos, Meth, NO and ProCharger too. So, I have to take their experiences into consideration as well. When making my decision the cool factor and power gains are always part of the process, however the best decision for my engine has to take precedence, I think the ProCharger is the safest, most powerfull way to go.
My understanding is to stay away from knock sensors as much as possible, and seems like ProCharger behave really well in that area. Might have something to do with the intercooling system.
There is an intake to the SC, and the boost flows to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the TB, and a few other minor connections for run-off and cooling, and it's all in front of the the rad. Pretty simply to do except for removal of the front fender, but that needs to be done for any SC that has a cooling system anyway,
The part I'm concerned about most is all the work for the dual-pump system. Practically, taking the whole back end apart to get to the gas tank.
As for the rest I'm already setup with headers, exhaust and booster cam. So, making the 660rwhp. with about 500lbtq. low down should be enough. I haven't seen too many Maggie setups make much more than that down low without forged internals, and stroked engines. But, I do admit they do hold the TQ higher up. I guess there's always a bit of a trade off regardless of the system. But, if I wanted to I could always do like the maggie dudes, and increase the boost to 8-10psi., but I don't want to push it for a few extra lbs. of torque.

Bro,

Sounds like you will end up with a mean car... A good friend of mine, Kyle, has a Procharger, and it is sic... He was the big dog in our area for a long time with at or just over 700 HP. He has a LSx 427 after he popped his LS-3...

I'm trying to topple him from the BIG DOG throne... lol, actually he is an awesome person and I have no issues with whom is the biggest or has the most power... I am fortunate that in this area, as this site shows in most parts of the continent, there are some amazing people involved with this car...

Good Luck with your build, and start a build thread for us to follow...

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

My decision is based on a setup I've already seen and the piping doesn't look complicated at all.
My installer has done quite a few Maggies, Turbos, Meth, NO and ProCharger too. So, I have to take their experiences into consideration as well. When making my decision the cool factor and power gains are always part of the process, however the best decision for my engine has to take precedence, I think the ProCharger is the safest, most powerful way to go.
My understanding is to stay away from knock sensors as much as possible, and seems like ProCharger behave really well in that area. Might have something to do with the intercooling system.
There is an intake to the SC, and the boost flows to the intercooler, and from the intercooler to the TB, and a few other minor connections for run-off and cooling, and it's all in front of the the rad. Pretty simply to do except for removal of the front fender, but that needs to be done for any SC that has a cooling system anyway,
The part I'm concerned about most is all the work for the dual-pump system. Practically, taking the whole back end apart to get to the gas tank.
As for the rest I'm already setup with headers, exhaust and booster cam. So, making the 660rwhp. with about 500lbtq. Low down should be enough. I haven't seen too many Maggie setups make much more than that down low without forged internals, and stroked engines. But, I do admit they do hold the TQ higher up. I guess there's always a bit of a trade off regardless of the system. But, if I wanted to I could always do like the maggie dudes, and increase the boost to 8-10psi., but I don't want to push it for a few extra lbs. of torque.

Well…Complicated is a relative term. I re-read my post and it sound like I came off like a jerk. I did not mean to convey that tone so oops sorry. Now on to your comments

No question a centrifugal makes the least amount of power down low so for that reason – YES it I safe. However, the Procharger takes power off the crank and puts added stress on the nose of the crank – that is why they tell you to “pin” the nose of the crank pulley when doing the install. It stops the blower from ripping the pulley off the crank like unscrewing a nut from a bolt or reverse rotating a cap off a beer bottle. Also the Procharger will move a ton of air and make HUGE power in the latter part of the RPM range so caution should always be taken.

When you say the MOST POWERFULL?? - I mean a turbo will always make the most power per lb of boost - Hands down

As for Knock sensors and intercooling – the coolest air possible is always the best way to go but again Centrifugals are not better than turbos in that department either – that is based on the intercooler – So that would be a toss up.

There is no front fender removal required on the twin turbo install – at least not on any of the systems I have seen

As for torque – the Maggie will make way more down low and the Procharger will carry it higher


You made a great choice either way