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Old 09-17-2010, 07:13 PM   #103
Granatelli
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Lots of people are torn as both methods offer a great power increase. It just comes down to what you really want vs. what you can afford. The twin turbo set ups are at the top of the food chain and of all the twin turbo kits out there the Granatelli/TTi system offers the most power with superior fit and finish. We are talking about “real” production style kits. You can always find companies that promise the world with no ability to deliver. I have exhausted my opinion as to why I feel the turbo is the best choice – But basically it makes the most power (or should I say, it has the ability to make mega power and always superior torque).

Our turbos are mounted directly off the exhaust manifolds – Here are a few pics:




The black plate you see is spaced down .75” This allows cools air to vent over the turbos – it is natural airflow and therefore has the same cooling effect as it would on a stock application.. (We do not offer the muffler turbo style kits – they have tremendous turbo lag. As an example we dyno’d an STS kit the other day and at 3800 it had only reached 3psi on its way to 7 at 6000 rpm – that is just not right)

Turbo Lag – As defined lag is the delay or time it takes for positive pressure to reach the intake after going WOT (wide open throttle). In the past, turbos would have a lag, meaning it would take more time for a turbocharger to get positive pressure than say a roots type blower. What they don’t tell you is it takes a ton of power to drive the blower so it is all a trade off – fast forward 20 year later and it still take a ton of power to drive the blower but turbos have come a long way and the way they work now, TWINS have virtually no lag. That means when you step on it – you see positive pressure in the manifold. Search any Granatelli and Hellion customer on this board – NO ONE complains about lack of boost right off idle. – Therefore LAG is a non issue with Twins – single turbos may have a small amount but nothing to worry about.

If you see power drop off in the graphs it is because we are all turning the dyno of at that point. I can tell you for sure our turbo kit will just keep making power until you blower the engine up – it does not give up at any RPM – the camshaft may drop off but ….. it will pull until you lift – I think the dyno graph are confusing you – if you are comparing our TT kit to say a Maggie – the Maggie may have more torque below 2000 rpm but after that – we win hands down all the way to 10,000 if you have the balls to go that high

You do not need to forge the internals if you plan to stay below 575 to the tires

Something just came up – I hope to complete this tonight – see ya

Last edited by Granatelli; 11-30-2010 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:02 AM   #104
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most of the forced induction kits sold will include the mating (required) injectors. As for a fuel pump booster, the stock system will support 475 to 500 at the rear. After that you need at minimum a fuel pump booster. To be safe an in tank pump and system upgrade should be done when going over 600 rwhp.

If you had a prof tune for say 8 psi then it would be fine at 6psi because the MAF would correct for it. However if you had a tune for say 12 psi and then only made 6, it would be super rich and yes a hand held with 2 tunes can accomplish your goal. If the question was can you adjust boost on the fly, yes with a turbo boost can be adjusted very easily and there are controllers that make it easy to go from 3 psi to 20 psi and beyond with ease

As for installer - we are happy to hook you up with the right company in your area - we have a few
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:55 PM   #105
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Procharger 8 lbs. boost

2010 CGM SS M6
Upgrades:
Procharger S/C (8 lbs. boost / 60# injectors)
Aquamist methanol injection
American racing LT headers w/mids
Magnaflow axle back
Meziere electric water pump
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:27 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Mcnhammer View Post
2010 CGM SS M6
Upgrades:
Procharger S/C (8 lbs. boost / 60# injectors)
Aquamist methanol injection
American racing LT headers w/mids
Magnaflow axle back
Meziere electric water pump
I love the Procharger, I just don't like the air filter sucking the hot air like that
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:55 AM   #107
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:27 PM   #108
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I love the look of the Maggie but i'm not impressed with their performance
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:42 AM   #109
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Jusy wanted to say great thread and lots of good info. I have an Edlbrock SC and love it. Great for low end torque. I have 625 RWHP.
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:34 PM   #110
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I haven't seen anybody with the Edelbrock E-Force S/C post any results on here. Before installing the E-Force S/C I had Kooks 1 7/8" LT headers, Ported intake, LMR CAI and dyno tune. It put down 414/rwhp and 406/rwtq. After installing the E-Force S/C( minus the ported intake) adding a Roto-Fab CAI and getting a dyno tune by Jeremy Formato it put down 546/rwhp and 522/rwtq with 6# of boost.
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:56 PM   #111
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That sounds about right - congrats
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:04 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granatelli View Post
Lots of people are torn as both methods offer a great power increase. It just comes down to what you really want vs. what you can afford. The twin turbo set ups are at the top of the food chain and of all the twin turbo kits out there the Granatelli/TTi system offers the most power with superior fit and finish. We are talking about “real” production style kits. You can always find companies that promise the world with no ability to deliver. I have exhausted my opinion as to why I feel the turbo is the best choice – But basically it makes the most power (or should I say, it has the ability to make mega power and always superior torque).

Our turbos are mounted directly off the exhaust manifolds – Here are a few pics:




The black plate you see is spaced down .75” This allows cools air to vent over the turbos – it is natural airflow and therefore has the same cooling effect as it would on a stock application.. (We do not offer the muffler turbo style kits – they have tremendous turbo lag. As an example we dyno’d an STS kit the other day and at 3800 it had only reached 3psi on its way to 7 at 6000 rpm – that is just not right)

Turbo Lag – As defined lag is the delay or time it takes for positive pressure to reach the intake after going WOT (wide open throttle). In the past, turbos would have a lag, meaning it would take more time for a turbocharger to get positive pressure than say a roots type blower. What they don’t tell you is it takes a ton of power to drive the blower so it is all a trade off – fast forward 20 year later and it still take a ton of power to drive the blower but turbos have come a long way and the way they work now, TWINS have virtually no lag. That means when you step on it – you see positive pressure in the manifold. Search any Granatelli and Hellion customer on this board – NO ONE complains about lack of boost right off idle. – Therefore LAG is a non issue with Twins – single turbos may have a small amount but nothing to worry about.

If you see power drop off in the graphs it is because we are all turning the dyno of at that point. I can tell you for sure our turbo kit will just keep making power until you blower the engine up – it does not give up at any RPM – the camshaft may drop off but ….. it will pull until you lift – I think the dyno graph are confusing you – if you are comparing our TT kit to say a Maggie – the Maggie may have more torque below 2000 rpm but after that – we win hands down all the way to 10,000 if you have the balls to go that high

You do not need to forge the internals if you plan to stay below 575 to the tires

Something just came up – I hope to complete this tonight – see ya
Is this a skid pad for the Camaro?
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:08 PM   #113
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A few of the other kit guys turbos hang so low, plus they mount their filter down there as well. In an effort to show people how our kit does not drag the turbo we put a plate across the bottom and people just started expecting it - so in short yes it is cover that we include with the kit - however - you do not need it as our turbos sit about 1.75" above the frame rail plus our filtering system draw cool filtered air from both sides of the nose - not under the car





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Old 11-10-2010, 10:54 PM   #114
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Granatelli vs. Hellion?
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Old 11-11-2010, 02:44 AM   #115
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The skid plate is a great idea with or without turbos. I'm always bumping the flang's connected to my LT headers attached at the bottom of my vehicle, on shitty roads or messed up speed bumps.
Does it require drilling to attach?
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:14 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscamaro View Post
I haven't seen anybody with the Edelbrock E-Force S/C post any results on here. Before installing the E-Force S/C I had Kooks 1 7/8" LT headers, Ported intake, LMR CAI and dyno tune. It put down 414/rwhp and 406/rwtq. After installing the E-Force S/C( minus the ported intake) adding a Roto-Fab CAI and getting a dyno tune by Jeremy Formato it put down 546/rwhp and 522/rwtq with 6# of boost.
Congrats on the numbers! It sounds like you ended up with a fun ride. We appreciate you using our intake as part of the build too.



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Old 11-11-2010, 03:17 PM   #117
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I saw someone wanted an Edelbrock E Force write up so here mine is.
Edelbrock E Force,
forged bottom end
Cam
Stroked
Well you get the point and can see detail in my signature.
I love the smooth power and torque provided by the E Force. Limit is reached fairly quickly with a 2.75 pulley and that is as small as you can go. No belt slip if you use the Gatorback belt that is recommended by Edelbrock. And it is only a 6 rib belt. Nice look and good low IAT numbers. 115 yesterday under load and fairly hard driving with a lot of boost. Of course I am on E85 so numbers might be higher on pump fuel. Injectors supplied are undersized if you are going for bigger numbers but whose are not...
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:42 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 SS RS View Post
I saw someone wanted an Edelbrock E Force write up so here mine is.
Edelbrock E Force,
forged bottom end
Cam
Stroked
Well you get the point and can see detail in my signature.
I love the smooth power and torque provided by the E Force. Limit is reached fairly quickly with a 2.75 pulley and that is as small as you can go. No belt slip if you use the Gatorback belt that is recommended by Edelbrock. And it is only a 6 rib belt. Nice look and good low IAT numbers. 115 yesterday under load and fairly hard driving with a lot of boost. Of course I am on E85 so numbers might be higher on pump fuel. Injectors supplied are undersized if you are going for bigger numbers but whose are not...
Damn boy, how can you get any traction with so much TQ right off the bat?
I love TQ, but so early can hold you down by spinning your wheels off.

But awesome results if you control your right foot.
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:48 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 SS RS View Post
I saw someone wanted an Edelbrock E Force write up so here mine is.
Edelbrock E Force,
forged bottom end
Cam
Stroked
Well you get the point and can see detail in my signature.
I love the smooth power and torque provided by the E Force. Limit is reached fairly quickly with a 2.75 pulley and that is as small as you can go. No belt slip if you use the Gatorback belt that is recommended by Edelbrock. And it is only a 6 rib belt. Nice look and good low IAT numbers. 115 yesterday under load and fairly hard driving with a lot of boost. Of course I am on E85 so numbers might be higher on pump fuel. Injectors supplied are undersized if you are going for bigger numbers but whose are not...
Those are really high numbers. I think most folks are getting about 670rwhp. with a Maggie perhaps some meth will get higher #'s, with about 9psi.
How, much boost are you using surely above 9psi. and how much hp's do you think are attributed to stroking the engine, and do you also have ported heads?
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