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Old 04-27-2011, 09:45 PM   #1387
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It's weird to hear that. Since the schematics are nearly identical. Should be just the fuses but we've had enough people swear by it. Must have to do with the transmision wiring. With the TCU in line somewhere.
And I swear it shifts smoother too. I don't even care why it worked, just happy it did. I wonder if there is a fuse I could pull to have the radio stop playing nickleback...
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:48 PM   #1388
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And I swear it shifts smoother too. I don't even care why it worked, just happy it did. I wonder if there is a fuse I could pull to have the radio stop playing nickleback...
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:57 PM   #1389
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And I swear it shifts smoother too. I don't even care why it worked, just happy it did. I wonder if there is a fuse I could pull to have the radio stop playing nickleback...
Hey I like nickleback...
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:59 PM   #1390
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There is much more danger in installing a CAI.

Sounds like you may not need it. Go time your car. Get a video camera, video your speedometer and you accelerate from a standstill. Put it on the computer and time it to see how long it takes you to hit 60 mph. You can cut the video at both ends to get as acurate of a time as you need. If you're down around 5 second-ish then you're probably fine. If you get a ton of wheel spin making it hard to get an acurate run, then you're probably fine.

If you're around 6 seconds-ish then you need a fuse pull. Check out my vids linked in the OP of this thread. It makes a huge difference.

I'll also have to make a video of the State Trooper asking me for my license and REG. Also what if my car does 0-60 in say 4.8 seconds like it feels like it does then would the fuse pull make my car go from 0-60 in say 4.3 seconds, I hope so, ( I call my car the human catapult).
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:22 PM   #1391
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I'll also have to make a video of the State Trooper asking me for my license and REG. Also what if my car does 0-60 in say 4.8 seconds like it feels like it does then would the fuse pull make my car go from 0-60 in say 4.3 seconds, I hope so, ( I call my car the human catapult).
If you get 4.8 you better just leave it alone. lol
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:30 PM   #1392
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If you get 4.8 you better just leave it alone. lol
Uh Oh I uhhh already removed them. Like my storage guys.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:32 PM   #1393
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Uh Oh I uhhh already removed them. Like my storage guys.


I just tossed them in the lid top. But that works too. lol
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:59 AM   #1394
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And I swear it shifts smoother too. I don't even care why it worked, just happy it did. I wonder if there is a fuse I could pull to have the radio stop playing nickleback...

OMG THAT WAS FUNNY...
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:12 AM   #1395
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Inconclusive results on mine. I pulled the negative cable also. Temperature was 25 degrees cooler this morning and I had wet roads from of a storm that rolled through an hour ago. 1/2 second faster than yesterday evening, but no butt dyno indication of an amount to say for sure.

I think I may have some other minor problems like maybe a weak MAF or maybe this slight exhaust leak thing I have is affecting the o2 sensors or something.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:14 AM   #1396
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Inconclusive results on mine. I pulled the negative cable also. Temperature was 25 degrees cooler this morning and I had wet roads from of a storm that rolled through an hour ago. 1/2 second faster than yesterday evening, but no butt dyno indication of an amount to say for sure.

I think I may have some other minor problems like maybe a weak MAF or maybe this slight exhaust leak thing I have is affecting the o2 sensors or something.
Sorry to hear that. Mine was more than just a little sluggish. Engine sounded very labored ar >4500 rpms. I'm thinking whatever reset had nothing to do with the octane tables, maybe something else.

On the exhaust leak are you hearing a noise at certain rpm? Mine sounds a little strange at about 2800 too 3500 rpms, more noticreable with the windows up. I'm thinking its an exhaust leak.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:23 AM   #1397
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My exhaust noise is a flapping flutter sound from the right side of the engine when warmed up real good and under a load. You cannot make it do it in the driveway revving and looking. I believe it is at the manifold to pipe gasket. Will try tightening it the weekend. It got a little worse when it installed MGW shifter and jostled the tranny/engine slightly. The noise started on a long freeway trip in hot weather last October when the car had 1000 miles...yes it has to be at least 2500 rpm and under a load
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:47 AM   #1398
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Inconclusive results on mine. I pulled the negative cable also. Temperature was 25 degrees cooler this morning and I had wet roads from of a storm that rolled through an hour ago. 1/2 second faster than yesterday evening, but no butt dyno indication of an amount to say for sure.

I think I may have some other minor problems like maybe a weak MAF or maybe this slight exhaust leak thing I have is affecting the o2 sensors or something.
But dyno can be misleading in this one. I was sure it felt better but not enough to be absolutely conclusive. The time didn't lie.
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:01 PM   #1399
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2010 L99 here. Just did a fuse pull today while my car was sitting at work. HOLY COW did that make a difference. This was my first v8 from driving a 4 banger so i thought the power was alot already. huge difference to me.

does this happen to other cars or is the 2010 Camaro SS the only one?
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Old 04-28-2011, 05:06 PM   #1400
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2010 L99 here. Just did a fuse pull today while my car was sitting at work. HOLY COW did that make a difference. This was my first v8 from driving a 4 banger so i thought the power was alot already. huge difference to me.

does this happen to other cars or is the 2010 Camaro SS the only one?
Just this one that we are aware of. And only if you are already on the low octane fuel table due to having had low octane gas introduced to the system at least once before.

If your car were already on the high octane table then there is no gain form a fuse pull.

Enjoy the full potnetial of your car that you just released.
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