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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 03-18-2013, 06:06 PM   #2451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f5journal View Post
There has been alot of discussion about disconnecting the battery cable at the fuse box and it being "negative".

Well, while troubleshooting something else over the weekend, I learned that the black cable connected to the main fuse box is power in...as in "positive". This is where Ofer/2SSRS powers the ZL-1 fog lights from with his harness.

So, that cable in theory is killing the entire fuse box folks.

Just thought I would toss this out there.
Wouldn't the black battery cable into any fuse box be "power in"?
Power flows from negative to positive.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:25 PM   #2452
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FYI, power flows positive to negative. And yes, traditionally red is positive, black is negative, but that does not mean you cannot use a black wire for positive. Electricity does not care what color the insulation is, that is why these days you really need to know what you are doing and getting into.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:54 PM   #2453
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Originally Posted by techinny View Post
FYI, power flows positive to negative. And yes, traditionally red is positive, black is negative, but that does not mean you cannot use a black wire for positive. Electricity does not care what color the insulation is, that is why these days you really need to know what you are doing and getting into.
From Wikipedia:
In metals, which make up the wires and other conductors in most electrical circuits, the positive charges are immobile, and the charge carriers are electrons. Because the electron carries negative charge, the electron motion in a metal conductor is in the direction opposite to that of conventional (or electric) current.

that is why these days you really need to know what you are doing and getting into.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:48 PM   #2454
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I am glad you understand what that means, I searched 12v current flow, and according to Ohm's law current flows from negative to positive, so according to that my information is incorrect.

And the comment of, that is why these days you really need to know what you are doing and getting into, was in the direction of a red wire does not mean it is positive, not belittling anyone as it seems you have taken it.

Could you please give me a link to that article, I would like to read the whole thing, I have read the part you provided mulitiple times and am obviously missing something.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:02 PM   #2455
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Originally Posted by techinny View Post
I am glad you understand what that means, I searched 12v current flow, and according to Ohm's law current flows from negative to positive, so according to that my information is incorrect.

And the comment of, that is why these days you really need to know what you are doing and getting into, was in the direction of a red wire does not mean it is positive, not belittling anyone as it seems you have taken it.

Could you please give me a link to that article, I would like to read the whole thing, I have read the part you provided mulitiple times and am obviously missing something.
Sorry, i was away from the computer for a while.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_current
I just found that quickly, there may be more pertinent articles but I find Wiki pretty useful.

I was just being a smart ass by quoting you about knowing what you're doing. No hard feelings here.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:33 AM   #2456
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The long and short of it guys is that my fog lights on my ZL-1 conversion bumper are powered from that battery cable connection. It is not the fuse box ground, it's main power into the fuse box.

So, disconnecting that cable is doing more to reset something than possibly indicated in the past on this thread.

This does not indicate for certain that the power goes to one side of 5 and 20 fuse, those could be a loop passing through from the ECU

PQ has already proven there is no power on those fuses with the car off.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:17 AM   #2457
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We got a little off topic, either way, the color of the wire does not indicate power or ground, but where it comes from and goes to does.

It's all good BSR-1.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:15 PM   #2458
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sorry, i don't want to go through all 99 pages.... but whatever happened with with trunk fuses??

I'm assuming since there have been no updates on the first page that i don't need to worry about those?
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:08 PM   #2459
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Time for Fuse Pull.

All,

Very interesting thread.. Ive noticed some issues with the idle of my car since I got it, and it was not as powerful as I had first imagined it would be.

Im off shore at the moment and heading to Houma tomorrow to pick up car and drive to Houston... What is the shortest recommended time to remove the fuses for? reason I ask is if it's 1hr then I will pull fuses and wait before driving up. if it's any more than that then I will need to see about it once I get back to Houston tomorrow afternoon.

Sorry if this has been covered in the 100 pages of posts.. I got to pg 20 before resorting to asking...

Thanks in Advance.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:47 PM   #2460
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Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
From Wikipedia:
In metals, which make up the wires and other conductors in most electrical circuits, the positive charges are immobile, and the charge carriers are electrons. Because the electron carries negative charge, the electron motion in a metal conductor is in the direction opposite to that of conventional (or electric) current.
This should be a sticky somewhere. Useful information for the masses
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:24 PM   #2461
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What's a Sticky

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Originally Posted by Z_Rated View Post
This should be a sticky somewhere. Useful information for the masses
Great Thread, but:
I am new to this forum. What's a Sticky?


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Old 05-10-2013, 05:44 PM   #2462
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Great Thread, but:
I am new to this forum. What's a Sticky?


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A forum thread that stays at the top
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:22 PM   #2463
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Just bought a 2013 2SS/RS, filled the tank full of premium, added STP fuel cleaner and STP gas cleaner. Pulled my fuses about an hour ago (6:30PM PST) and will put them back in tomorrow morning when I wake up and am ready to drive. should be around 9:00am (PST).
Will let you know what I notice.
BTW - doing this on my 2010 2SS/RS made a HUGE difference.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:27 PM   #2464
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Originally Posted by thepirate View Post
sorry, i don't want to go through all 99 pages.... but whatever happened with with trunk fuses??

I'm assuming since there have been no updates on the first page that i don't need to worry about those?
I didn't hear/read much more on that either.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:01 PM   #2465
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Just bought a 2013 2SS/RS, filled the tank full of premium, added STP fuel cleaner and STP gas cleaner. Pulled my fuses about an hour ago (6:30PM PST) and will put them back in tomorrow morning when I wake up and am ready to drive. should be around 9:00am (PST).
Will let you know what I notice.
BTW - doing this on my 2010 2SS/RS made a HUGE difference.
Forgot to update - I didn't notice a thing pulling the fuses. I sure did in my 2010 though.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:10 PM   #2466
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Ok sorry guys maybe im just being slow today but im really confused on why we should do this. I read most of this sticky and from what ive seen you do this to fix your fuel table? Not sure what that is. Something about if you put bad gas in this will fix it?
Also does this have anything to do with pulling a fuse for the NPP exhaust? If so i dont really understand that at all.
Ok i think i left off on page 19 so ill head back and read more.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:16 PM   #2467
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Ok i think i got it.
When you buy it brand new most dealerships put in 87 octane. Once you get rid of the gas and put in 91+ octane you then do the fuse pull to make sure the computers setting are set to 91+ octane. Do i have that right?

Also would this be a issue with V6 Camaros?
Also then i would imagine this has nothing to do with the fuse pull on the NPP exhaust?
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:30 PM   #2468
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Originally Posted by Casperadub70 View Post
Ok i think i got it.
When you buy it brand new most dealerships put in 87 octane. Once you get rid of the gas and put in 91+ octane you then do the fuse pull to make sure the computers setting are set to 91+ octane. Do i have that right?
Correct

Quote:
Also would this be a issue with V6 Camaros?
V8 only

Quote:
Also then i would imagine this has nothing to do with the fuse pull on the NPP exhaust?
Correct
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #2469
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Thanks buddy. LOL
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:09 AM   #2470
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Quote:
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Correct



V8 only



Correct
And why they dont bother informing the customers that they need to perform a fuse pull as a formal procedure !!

People were selling their cars, assuming that Camaros are nothing but a big mistake and its a muscle car.

No everyone bother joining Camaro5 or loggin on the net to know this.

Moreover, did GM solve this issue with the 2014 model ???
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:37 AM   #2471
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Did this last night, car feels like its picked up 20whp
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:37 AM   #2472
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yeah it def works, not sure how much of a gain but the car seems to pull a whole lot better
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #2473
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If someone messes up and lugs their M6 car, can that kick you to the low octane table as well?
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #2474
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I realize I'm a new 1LE owner and this thread is a little old but...If all of this is true wouldn't the 87 octane fuel the factory puts in the car on the assembly line cause the wimp mode right out of the gate? Please don't try and tell me GM is putting premium gas in every car it builds. We all know better than that.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #2475
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I realize I'm a new 1LE owner and this thread is a little old but...If all of this is true wouldn't the 87 octane fuel the factory puts in the car on the assembly line cause the wimp mode right out of the gate? Please don't try and tell me GM is putting premium gas in every car it builds. We all know better than that.
Probably right that they don't put it in every car, but for the cars that require premium I can see it.
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