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Old 03-14-2013, 01:32 PM   #1001
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Originally Posted by chozn4service View Post
I did the upper edge and was OK. Some have said they used a rag with some thinnner to remove the paint. I suggest you use some painters tape and line the edge and go over what your already did first. Also a big thing is ensuring you light source is at the correct angle. If not exactly right it won't show through. I'm assuming you're using the tube as I did. I you don't have just right the light is sent else where and not toward the cleared section you've created. I had to play with a few times to get it right and once I had it I left it alone...
Im kinda thinking that the 2010 panels might be different from the 2011s. on my panels there is a bevel kind of thing running along the top edge on the back of the panel. i sanded down the bevel(i didn't even need painters tape because of the bevel) and it turns out the bevel goes right against the dash. anyway, i went out and removed one of the trim pieces. and accidentally broke one of the clips so heres a pic of what i sanded:
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:05 PM   #1002
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Can't help on the clip but the bevel is the same as mine. Once I removed the paint and all I had to play with the adjust until I had the desired light shining through.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:01 AM   #1003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chozn4service View Post
I did the upper edge and was OK. Some have said they used a rag with some thinnner to remove the paint. I suggest you use some painters tape and line the edge and go over what your already did first. Also a big thing is ensuring you light source is at the correct angle. If not exactly right it won't show through. I'm assuming you're using the tube as I did. I you don't have just right the light is sent else where and not toward the cleared section you've created. I had to play with a few times to get it right and once I had it I left it alone...
this.

I'd recommend just using weather stripping. It'll push the part out 2mm and will give you just enough room for the light to shine through. But make sure the light is angled right. If not, no light will come through.

If you really want to sand it, go for it. You'll need to sand about 2 to 3mm down the back side. Be VERY careful not to accidentally sand too far here or there. Tape it off REALLY well. If not, you'll end up buying a brand new piece.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:23 PM   #1004
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this.

I'd recommend just using weather stripping. It'll push the part out 2mm and will give you just enough room for the light to shine through. But make sure the light is angled right. If not, no light will come through.

If you really want to sand it, go for it. You'll need to sand about 2 to 3mm down the back side. Be VERY careful not to accidentally sand too far here or there. Tape it off REALLY well. If not, you'll end up buying a brand new piece.
Thank you! Thats what I was looking for! I remembered seeing something about how much further you had to sand a long time ago but I couldn't find it! As far as sanding I might try taping the part I want the paint removed, cover the back with a little silicone sealant, peal the tape off and let the sealant cure which should leave a perfect line. Then take some brake cleaner on a cloth to remove the paint. The silicone should keep the brake cleaner off the paint I don't want removed. Then when I am finished either peal the silicone off or just leave it on. Also which wire do I need to tap? The one I tapped the last time I attempted this caused my passenger side window to stop working until I removed the tap. Also I tried it your way except the lights shined way brighter than the door panels.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:54 PM   #1005
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I did this mod last week, very easy if you take your time, and definitely worth it when you're driving around at night!
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #1006
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Thank you! Thats what I was looking for! I remembered seeing something about how much further you had to sand a long time ago but I couldn't find it! As far as sanding I might try taping the part I want the paint removed, cover the back with a little silicone sealant, peal the tape off and let the sealant cure which should leave a perfect line. Then take some brake cleaner on a cloth to remove the paint. The silicone should keep the brake cleaner off the paint I don't want removed. Then when I am finished either peal the silicone off or just leave it on. Also which wire do I need to tap? The one I tapped the last time I attempted this caused my passenger side window to stop working until I removed the tap. Also I tried it your way except the lights shined way brighter than the door panels.
I think it was the purple wire you need to tap. But, I don't remember where. Problem is....I have the stock wire hook ups since my vin is below 50k on the 2010 model. So, I never needed to look for other wires to tap. But again, I think it's the purple wire under the center console. Maybe it was behind the cluster? Shoot...ask Ofer. He can tell you for sure.

Brake cleaner would probably work. Just again, I can't stress enough....if you jack up the paint below that line, it's gonna run you $70 for a new insert. And waiting a week for it to come in sucks!!!

I've gone through three of them!
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:45 PM   #1007
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Well, 4 cut fingers and a ripped nail later(damned dash clips ) I am almost finished. I got impatient and ended up going with the sanding route instead of using brake cleaner. I taped it off nice and sanded another 2 mm below the bevel. The line turned out great!! I placed the inserts back in and after a little adjustment I finally got light shining through(I hooked the LED wires to a battery). They are the same size as the doors as far as I can tell in the daylight. I'll give an update on what they look like tonight. The only issue is that I need to polish out more of the scratches from the sand paper as they stick out really bad. They aren't that big but the plastic kinda has a magnifying affect on them. Also does anyone know the part number to the metal clips that attach the inserts to the dash? I broke 2 of them which isn't too big of a deal but I'd like to get them replaced if its possible. So besides that, all thats left for me to do is find which wire I need to tap so the lights come on with the doors and tap it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:14 AM   #1008
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I'm pretty sure it's the purple wire you are going to need to tap into. Triple check with Ofer....2SS/RS. I think it's either under the center console or behind the gauges. Either one should work. T Tap into that and you should be good to go.

Also, get some good polish like Meguires Scratch X and put it on a buffing pad....hit the back of the insert pretty good. That should clean up the scratches. Dash clips....no idea. But I think they are standard all throughout the car...same type.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:28 AM   #1009
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I'm pretty sure it's the purple wire you are going to need to tap into. Triple check with Ofer....2SS/RS. I think it's either under the center console or behind the gauges. Either one should work. T Tap into that and you should be good to go.

Also, get some good polish like Meguires Scratch X and put it on a buffing pad....hit the back of the insert pretty good. That should clean up the scratches. Dash clips....no idea. But I think they are standard all throughout the car...same type.
Ok, I'll PM him later today. I did tap into a purple wire already, but it happened to be the one leading from the switch to the passenger side window lol. And good idea on the Scratch X, I used 2000 grit for the final sanding but I went from 80 to 120 to 320 to 600 and then to 2000, so my problem may also be in the large gaps between the grits. I'll try the Scratch X first though, so thanks in advance for saving me all that time if it works And now that I think of it, I may have some clips left over from the side rockers that I took off for my ground effects. So I'll have to check and see if they are the same. Also I took a look at it last night and it looks amazing Matches up to the doors perfectly in brightness and width.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:19 PM   #1010
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It is the purple wire as TAG UR IT said, but i have never done it to that wire, my camaro is also below that 50K mark, so i dont know where that wire is
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:41 PM   #1011
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It is the purple wire as TAG UR IT said, but i have never done it to that wire, my camaro is also below that 50K mark, so i dont know where that wire is
I do.
I did it on a late model 2010 that didn't have the factory plugs.

The drivers, and the passengers kick panel has the purple wire. What sucks, is there is more than one purple wire. I tapped the wrong one on his car, and the ambient light stayed on and couldn't dim. So I just tapped the other.

If memory serves me correctly on the drivers side it was the buried purple wire that was more difficult to get to. On the passenger side I did it perfectly.

Look for the wires that run into the door.
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:44 PM   #1012
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I was thinking of doing this, but boy does that gap look like shit with the weatherstrip. Has anyone gotten it to look factory by sanding the top lip? If so can u see it during the day? I want factory look...or else I'll just leave it as is. Thanks.
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:19 PM   #1013
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I was thinking of doing this, but boy does that gap look like shit with the weatherstrip. Has anyone gotten it to look factory by sanding the top lip? If so can u see it during the day? I want factory look...or else I'll just leave it as is. Thanks.
My gap is not very big at all, and the width of the light looks factory. I did not sand either.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:27 AM   #1014
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Yes you can sand the top. It'll look good, but not factory. Been there done that. Moved on to weather stripping.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:47 PM   #1015
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I liked the look of sanding it. I have the light shining in from the very far end at the passenger side and shooting back toward the steering wheel.

I installed the 2012 dash and drilled a hole where the 2010 had it. Here it is in the daytime. I also had to trim a couple of the clips.



Here it is after I first did the install.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:40 PM   #1016
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I liked the look of sanding it. I have the light shining in from the very far end at the passenger side and shooting back toward the steering wheel.

I installed the 2012 dash and drilled a hole where the 2010 had it. Here it is in the daytime. I also had to trim a couple of the clips.



Here it is after I first did the install.

Looks good. Did you sand just to the bevel edge? Or a mm or 2 lower?
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:08 AM   #1017
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Quote:
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Looks good. Did you sand just to the bevel edge? Or a mm or 2 lower?
It was just a bit lower. When I sanded it I used a 3m spot sanding pen, and I held it to the light looking through the front of it to see.

There are a couple of clips that need to be trimmed as well so the trim sits flush.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #1018
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I need to do this to mine, but I've seen a few different shades of green LEDs. Does anybody know what to get that matches the OEM green (not aqua) in the ones with SGM panels?

Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:09 PM   #1019
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working through this one... 2012 I believe I see a purple, purple/white stripe, pink/black stripe (which looks kind of purple in some lights). Choices. :/

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Old 06-06-2014, 12:07 AM   #1020
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Does anyone have any pictured of the red panels with blue lights? all the ones i have seen have the red led...
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:50 AM   #1021
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Does anyone have any pictured of the red panels with blue lights? all the ones i have seen have the red led...
This is the only one I could find and you can hardly see the panel because it's dark. http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1916c7f8.jpg. Panel looks red to me. But IMHO Red panel with blue ABL looks tacky. To each his own...
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:28 PM   #1022
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Yea.... I guess you're right. I'll have to see how mine comes out when I add the red dash. Hopefully it looks good seeing how my footwell lighting is blue..

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