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Old 09-05-2009, 06:07 PM   #1
ASTEDA
 
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Amp install- how to (w/pics)

I've seen a lot of posts asking how to install an amp in the 2010. There are a lot of answers, but none had any pictures. So I decided to document my own install so others can get an idea of how it's done.

Pic 1. Locate the wires to the stock amp. They're on the left side just behind the rear wheel well.

Pic 2. Find the white wire and splice it with your amp turn-on wire.

Pic 3. Pick up an "adjustable output adapter" from your local car audio place. This one cost me $30.00.

Pic 4. Splice the right and left speaker wires with the right and left wires on the output adapter. Sorry for the poor pic... but you can see the RCA outputs on the adapter. Hook your RCA's up and run them, along with your amp turn-on lead, along the back of the trunk and into the spare tire well.

Pic 5. This is the complete hook up of the wires. If you notice the bottom left of the pic- you'll see the RCA wires and the amp lead. I just ran them up the same spot as the power and grounds for the amp.

Pic 6. Finished project.

I also added a lot of dynamat around the trunk to include the top of the trunk door.

I hope this helps a few of you out.
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Last edited by ASTEDA; 09-05-2009 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:09 PM   #2
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:36 PM   #3
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:54 PM   #4
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not bad but not a fan of the duct tape.
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:24 PM   #5
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yeah the duck tape is not a good thing its like its rigged, if your going to do something like this do it right. Because if there is exposed wire it will short out and cause more isues, use the splicers and connectors to do this.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by montej23 View Post
yeah the duck tape is not a good thing its like its rigged, if your going to do something like this do it right. Because if there is exposed wire it will short out and cause more isues, use the splicers and connectors to do this.
The duct tape was used over electrical tape because it literally melts together after about 10 minutes. There are no exposed wires in the pictures. I've been installing car stereos for over 15 years and have always used this method with zero "shorts".

Also, the stock wires are VERY tight and VERY thick. The only way to connect them after you cut them using connectors and splicers is to add another length of wire to each lead.

This was simply a quick post to show people out there how easy it is to do. They can make it prettier on their own if they want... but it sure as hell beats paying a shop over $200.00 to do it.
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Old 09-06-2009, 03:05 AM   #7
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ASTEDA, i have an adjustable output adapter as well, but mine is adjustable on each channel. in other words, left and right speakers have adjustable gain screws for the RCA outs. was yours the same? and if so, how did u accurately set the gain the same for each? just to what sounds good?
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Old 09-06-2009, 03:12 AM   #8
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It is funny how some one put s their own time and effort in to giving the forum useful information, then corrected by some one who does nt even have their car yet. Thanks to the original poster. One question, I did not get the boston upgrade so what are my options? I can do it my self, just would like to know exactly what to look for.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:45 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by LS3SSRS View Post
ASTEDA, i have an adjustable output adapter as well, but mine is adjustable on each channel. in other words, left and right speakers have adjustable gain screws for the RCA outs. was yours the same? and if so, how did u accurately set the gain the same for each? just to what sounds good?
Yes, my adapter was the same. I adjusted mine to about half... that way I keep the amp at the lower settings. With my amp (850 wt/mono) and enclousures (thin) I could have done about a 1/4 turn less to have been spot on. Currently, I have to play it pretty loud to get the mids and highs to come out clear. I'll change it up when I'm done making my custom boxes.

In the end it'll depend on your amp and subs. Just play with it before you tuck it away. If your adapter is like mine you'll have to turn the up the gains for the amp to work. The first time I tested the system I didn't adjust the gains and the subs were almost silent.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:52 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by my2010camaross View Post
It is funny how some one put s their own time and effort in to giving the forum useful information, then corrected by some one who does nt even have their car yet. Thanks to the original poster. One question, I did not get the boston upgrade so what are my options? I can do it my self, just would like to know exactly what to look for.
I'm not sure what the setup looks like in the cars without the BA system. I think there are a few posts about people hooking into the wires that go to the 6X9's on this forum. The output adapter will work either way... and it doesn't need power or a ground so that makes it pretty easy. Just look at the second sticky on this forum to find the color codes for the wires leading to the rear speakers and make sure you have some good speaker wire handy so you can run a little extra length when you splice.

Thanks for your comment- like I said, this was just a basic "how to" so people could get a visual.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:05 AM   #11
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Good thread. I would suggest getting the fuse right beside the battery. If that lead end going to the fuse comes loose and hits the spare tire well you'll be arcwelding.
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Old 09-06-2009, 12:56 PM   #12
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Cool, thanks for the explanation and the pics!!!
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:46 PM   #13
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Cool, thanks for the explanation and the pics!!!
All of this is already included and detailed in our 5th Gen kits to eliminate any guesswork or the need to decipher a wiring diagram. We did all this for you and put it into a kit. We have kits for both the BA system and Non BA system. The non BA system has a special amp trigger since there is no factory 'remote' wire to feed off of.

www.********.com/5gamp.htm
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Old 09-06-2009, 03:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Steve@******** View Post
All of this is already included and detailed in our 5th Gen kits to eliminate any guesswork or the need to decipher a wiring diagram. We did all this for you and put it into a kit. We have kits for both the BA system and Non BA system. The non BA system has a special amp trigger since there is no factory 'remote' wire to feed off of.

www.********.com/5gamp.htm
I didn't see any pictures other than a picture of the amp, Steve... so it's not been "detailed" to anyone unless they pay for your kit.

However, $60.00 is a pretty good price for the kit for someone who is starting from scratch ($9.00 for shipping is a bit much, IMO), but for the people who already have the equipment it ain't doing much to help.
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