Amp install - how to (w/pics)

[ASTEDA]

I've seen a lot of posts asking how to install an amp in the 2010. There are a lot of answers, but none had any pictures. So I decided to document my own install so others can get an idea of how it's done.

Pic 1. Locate the wires to the stock amp. They're on the left side just behind the rear wheel well.

Pic 2. Find the white wire and splice it with your amp turn-on wire.

Pic 3. Pick up an "adjustable output adapter" from your local car audio place. This one cost me $30.00.

Pic 4. Splice the right and left speaker wires with the right and left wires on the output adapter. Sorry for the poor pic... but you can see the RCA outputs on the adapter. Hook your RCA's up and run them, along with your amp turn-on lead, along the back of the trunk and into the spare tire well.

Pic 5. This is the complete hook up of the wires. If you notice the bottom left of the pic- you'll see the RCA wires and the amp lead. I just ran them up the same spot as the power and grounds for the amp.

Pic 6. Finished project.

I also added a lot of dynamat around the trunk to include the top of the trunk door.

I hope this helps a few of you out.

[Ject]

Pictures are broken links

[ASTEDA]

Fixed

[oachalon]

not bad but not a fan of the duct tape.

[montej23]

yeah the duck tape is not a good thing its like its rigged, if your going to do something like this do it right. Because if there is exposed wire it will short out and cause more isues, use the splicers and connectors to do this.

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by montej23

yeah the duck tape is not a good thing its like its rigged, if your going to do something like this do it right. Because if there is exposed wire it will short out and cause more isues, use the splicers and connectors to do this.

The duct tape was used over electrical tape because it literally melts together after about 10 minutes. There are no exposed wires in the pictures. I've been installing car stereos for over 15 years and have always used this method with zero "shorts".

Also, the stock wires are VERY tight and VERY thick. The only way to connect them after you cut them using connectors and splicers is to add another length of wire to each lead.

This was simply a quick post to show people out there how easy it is to do. They can make it prettier on their own if they want... but it sure as hell beats paying a shop over $200.00 to do it.

[LS3SSRS]

ASTEDA, i have an adjustable output adapter as well, but mine is adjustable on each channel. in other words, left and right speakers have adjustable gain screws for the RCA outs. was yours the same? and if so, how did u accurately set the gain the same for each? just to what sounds good?

[my2010camaross]

It is funny how some one put s their own time and effort in to giving the forum useful information, then corrected by some one who does nt even have their car yet. Thanks to the original poster. One question, I did not get the boston upgrade so what are my options? I can do it my self, just would like to know exactly what to look for.

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by LS3SSRS

ASTEDA, i have an adjustable output adapter as well, but mine is adjustable on each channel. in other words, left and right speakers have adjustable gain screws for the RCA outs. was yours the same? and if so, how did u accurately set the gain the same for each? just to what sounds good?

Yes, my adapter was the same. I adjusted mine to about half... that way I keep the amp at the lower settings. With my amp (850 wt/mono) and enclousures (thin) I could have done about a 1/4 turn less to have been spot on. Currently, I have to play it pretty loud to get the mids and highs to come out clear. I'll change it up when I'm done making my custom boxes.

In the end it'll depend on your amp and subs. Just play with it before you tuck it away. If your adapter is like mine you'll have to turn the up the gains for the amp to work. The first time I tested the system I didn't adjust the gains and the subs were almost silent.

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by my2010camaross

It is funny how some one put s their own time and effort in to giving the forum useful information, then corrected by some one who does nt even have their car yet. Thanks to the original poster. One question, I did not get the boston upgrade so what are my options? I can do it my self, just would like to know exactly what to look for.

I'm not sure what the setup looks like in the cars without the BA system. I think there are a few posts about people hooking into the wires that go to the 6X9's on this forum. The output adapter will work either way... and it doesn't need power or a ground so that makes it pretty easy. Just look at the second sticky on this forum to find the color codes for the wires leading to the rear speakers and make sure you have some good speaker wire handy so you can run a little extra length when you splice.

Thanks for your comment- like I said, this was just a basic "how to" so people could get a visual.

[THUMPER20X]

Good thread. I would suggest getting the fuse right beside the battery. If that lead end going to the fuse comes loose and hits the spare tire well you'll be arcwelding.

[Iwantone2]

Cool, thanks for the explanation and the pics!!!

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by Iwantone2

Cool, thanks for the explanation and the pics!!!

All of this is already included and detailed in our 5th Gen kits to eliminate any guesswork or the need to decipher a wiring diagram. We did all this for you and put it into a kit. We have kits for both the BA system and Non BA system. The non BA system has a special amp trigger since there is no factory 'remote' wire to feed off of.

www.subthump.com/5gamp.htm

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by Steve@Subthump

All of this is already included and detailed in our 5th Gen kits to eliminate any guesswork or the need to decipher a wiring diagram. We did all this for you and put it into a kit. We have kits for both the BA system and Non BA system. The non BA system has a special amp trigger since there is no factory 'remote' wire to feed off of.

www.subthump.com/5gamp.htm

I didn't see any pictures other than a picture of the amp, Steve... so it's not been "detailed" to anyone unless they pay for your kit.

However, $60.00 is a pretty good price for the kit for someone who is starting from scratch ($9.00 for shipping is a bit much, IMO), but for the people who already have the equipment it ain't doing much to help.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by ASTEDA

I didn't see any pictures other than a picture of the amp, Steve... so it's not been "detailed" to anyone unless they pay for your kit.

However, $60.00 is a pretty good price for the kit for someone who is starting from scratch ($9.00 for shipping is a bit much, IMO), but for the people who already have the equipment it ain't doing much to help.

It's much better than saying 'read the second stickey and figure it our yourself'. A lot of new Camaro owners are not on these forums and don't have these resources. We wanted an affordable product to offer to our customers that gives them everything they need to install their amp and I wrote up instructions on how to do it quickly and easily. I don't see any fault in that or why you're being so critical.

If everyone went out and paid $30 for the output adapter like you did AND bought their Amp kit on top of that, they would easily spend more than what our whole kit costs delivered to their door. Most guys are getting their box AND the kit at the same time. We pack the kit inside the box so the kit essentially ships for free. If you are that worried about shipping costs, then you should stick to paying more locally. IE That pac unit from us is only 20 bux.

I agree that many of the hard core diyer's that want to decipher the wiring diagram and buy their own gear probably don't need our kits and I am certianly okay with that. However, looking at the wires you used for your install, you didn't even do it right so I dunno if you should be the one telling everyone how to do this or not. If they want to do it the right way then they have another option which is to get one of our kits.

[Teccboxx]

I would highly recommend the kit from Steve, although I didn't use any of the wiring. However the instructions were well written and the T-taps are friggen sweet. Took about 10 minutes to install the PAC, no splicing needed which was awesome.

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by Steve@Subthump

It's much better than saying 'read the second stickey and figure it our yourself'. A lot of new Camaro owners are not on these forums and don't have these resources. We wanted an affordable product to offer to our customers that gives them everything they need to install their amp and I wrote up instructions on how to do it quickly and easily. I don't see any fault in that or why you're being so critical.

If everyone went out and paid $30 for the output adapter like you did AND bought their Amp kit on top of that, they would easily spend more than what our whole kit costs delivered to their door. Most guys are getting their box AND the kit at the same time. We pack the kit inside the box so the kit essentially ships for free. If you are that worried about shipping costs, then you should stick to paying more locally. IE That pac unit from us is only 20 bux.

I agree that many of the hard core diyer's that want to decipher the wiring diagram and buy their own gear probably don't need our kits and I am certianly okay with that. However, looking at the wires you used for your install, you didn't even do it right so I dunno if you should be the one telling everyone how to do this or not. If they want to do it the right way then they have another option which is to get one of our kits.

LOL! Now I didn't do it right!

Steve, my install works just fine for $40.00 less than your kit. But hey, if you want to bash my install to make your business look good, more power to you.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by ASTEDA

LOL! Now I didn't do it right!

Steve, my install works just fine for $40.00 less than your kit. But hey, if you want to bash my install to make your business look good, more power to you.

If it works for you, that's all that matters. I am not bashing, just observing and wondering. The guys making fun of your duct tape wiring are bashing. Not me. I am just wondering why you would take an amplified signal and amplify it again. I would think someone who's done this for 15 years would want to use the pre-amp signal to get the cleanest signal possible instead of tapping into the noise infested amplified outputs for the signal.

And where are you getting your numbers from anyhow? I'm curious. My kit is $59. You get the output adapter, ground cable, power cable, RCA wire, Turn on wire, speaker wire, ends, connectors and instructions. ALL for only $59. That is an awesome deal and I'm certainly not making tons off them. If you spent $40 less than our kit, that means you got your adapter AND all your wiring, etc for $19? You already said your adapter was $30, so that doesn't add up. You may have wiring lying around, but not everyone is so lucky. Most guys will have to pay for this and if they buy all their components separately, there is no way they can beat our kit pricewise--especially if they buy from a couple different places and have to pay multiple shipping charges to get everything delivered they need. Not that the numbers matter as I sense some animosity against what we are trying to do for our customers.

[LS3SSRS]

Steve, what wires are spliced into the line out converter then? Ones before the amp? What colors?

[third1]

Steve I am woundering if anyone really looked at the wiring sticky.I hooked into to the sub outs before the amp on the BA and have tons of bass. With the biusness you are in you should see this it is not that complicated. Tell me if I did somthing wrong. I have a sh&t load of bass with 200 watts ????

[JDBeck23]

Originally Posted by third1

Steve I am woundering if anyone really looked at the wiring sticky.I hooked into to the sub outs before the amp on the BA and have tons of bass. With the biusness you are in you should see this it is not that complicated. Tell me if I did somthing wrong. I have a sh&t load of bass with 200 watts ????

Apparently Steve is under the impression that the OP hooked in AFTER the amp... since both sets of wires are very close to one another... Im guessing. Just a third party point of view here. If you hooked in before the amp, then you did it right, and should have nice clean base.

[KTCAM]

I agree with Teccboxx & Steve @ Subthump as well The install took me about 4-5 hours to get “everything just right”. The kit from Steves makes it extremely easy & in plain English w/ photos. You cant go wrong with his kit. And as far as the cost it beats trying to get them from different places w/shipping or even here locally in Houston with taxes & all . Also once I installed the truck mat that sub box aint gonna move. I sat in the trunck & “pushed” the box with my legs & feet to get a tight fit without having to anchor it to anything
Here is my setup

[Steve@Subthump]

Love those grilles. They look badass. I painted some kicker grilles and installed them on mine. I Can't tell, but are those cvrs under there?

Okay, here's newer pics of my subs and one of the amp cover I made





We might offer the cover as an option or an entire amp rack if we get enough interest.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by JDBeck23

Apparently Steve is under the impression that the OP hooked in AFTER the amp... since both sets of wires are very close to one another... Im guessing. Just a third party point of view here. If you hooked in before the amp, then you did it right, and should have nice clean base.

I am. In the pic below you can see the loc is wired to green and blue wires and are twisted. The only wires that are green and blue and twisted are the ones coming out of the amp at the the power plug. Those are the ones powering the 6x9s. Anyone can trace those and hook up a loc to them. Whereas the input wires (ie before the amp straight from the HU) are mostly tans and browns. There's on blue, but no green. Finding these takes more work, but my kit explains which ones they are and which wires on the loc to hook to each. I know you will get cleaner bass using the pre-amp singal than a post-amp signal. The factory BA amp looks like a piece of crap, so I would not want to amplify any signal coming out of it and feed to to my speakers. Just my .02

[Mi P]

Originally Posted by Steve@Subthump

Love those grilles. They look badass. I painted some kicker grilles and installed them on mine. I Can't tell, but are those cvrs under there?

Okay, here's newer pics of my subs and one of the amp cover I made





We might offer the cover as an option or an entire amp rack if we get enough interest.

Is the box pictured (for two 12's) internally braced other than the Divider?

can you get one without the 'speaker connectors'/holes ?